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The Er DH error code indicates the temperature sensor on the evaporator coil did not reach 50 degrees within one hour. This would indicate the control board did put the refrigerator through a defrost cycle.
This problem could be caused by a defective relay on the control board, a defective defrost heater, a broken wire to the heater, or a stopped up drain on the defrost pan causing ice to form on the evaporator coil.
Before replacing the control board, someone should remove the food from the freezer, remove the freezer drawer, and remove the evaporator cover to expose the evaporator coil, heater, and defrost sensor. The voltage to the defrost heater should be 120 volts ac. The defrost heater is part of the evaporator coil and is not replaceable as a separate part.
You can test the operation of the defrost system by pressing "Ultra Ice" and "colder freezer temp" for 3 seconds. The first time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and open the damper.
All displays should be on.
The second time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and close the damper.
The third time you press and hold the buttons, the board will turn the compressor and fan off and turn the defrost heater on for around 25 minutes. This would let you know if the defrost system is working.
The “er dh” code
means a problem with the defrost cycle. It is triggered when the defrost sensor
does not reach 46 degrees F within 2 hours of the defrost cycle starting. If
indeed the defroster is not working, the evaporator (in the bottom of the
fridge in the freezer compartment and behind a plastic cover) will eventually
ice up completely, blocking the flow of cold air to the upper compartment. Use
a thermometer to check the upper compartment to verify that no or little cool
air is reaching it.If the evaporator is
iced up, the defrost cycle is not working. Quick fix to restore operation to
the upper compartment: tape over all vent holes in the upper section to keep
that cool while you work below. There are about 6-7 vent opens in the back wall
and two large one on the floor of upper compartment. Remove freezer door,
drawers, slide rails and pull back the plastic cover (2 screws hold it in
place, one in the center and one behind the ice maker) at the rear of the
freezer section to expose the evaporator. Spray hot water on the ice
accumulation on the evaporator (it looks like a radiator) to melt it
(remembering to sop up what flows to the drain pan at the rear). The entire
operation can be done in about 30 minutes (most time is used for removing ice
and sopping up water from the drain pan). All should be ok for 3-4 days
depending on humidity before the evaporator ices up again.In the meantime, order a replacement control
board. You can view this by removing a panel w/ 3 screws at the rear left of
the refrigerator. This panel controls all refrigerator functions, including
defrost. Most likely, the integrated relay for the defrost cycle failed.
Swapping out panels is a 10 minute job. Panels cost about $116 incl shipping
from repairclinc.com. Shipping is about a week. You can find a free service manual on line
that will help to identify all parts and is particularly useful for removing
doors and trays so you can get at the evaporator. All in all, the customer service is useless.
The fridge however is very easy to work on and amazingly simple. The
replacement board has a slightly different relay for the defrost heater, so LG
may have realized a problem existed with the original. It is also possible that
electrical surges damaged the relay.In
any case, 10 minutes and $116 seems pretty minor to have the fridge back to new
condition. Good luck.
I faced the same problem for Kenmore elite Trio Model # 795.77543600 bottom freezer refrigerator. The issue as pointed out by Medeer on fixya.com, turned out to be the part called component assembly, part number 6615JB2005H. I got this replaced yesterday but for 4 hours I did not notice any cooling... so I thought it did not work.... but then in the morning I notice that the issue has been resolved, the refrigerator is cold and there is no eR dH error message. Thanks to all who shared on this site.
Hi. You have an Error Defrost Heater. Its taking too long for the heater sensor to open the circuit during defrost. You normally replace the heater, heater sensor and circuit board(motherboard) located on the back of the refrigerator in this situation. Check your mollex plugs and make sure they are connected tightly at the evaporator coil area. Sometimes they come loose. I reccommend replacing the heater and heater sensor located top right on the evaporator coil. This should take care of the problem. Need parts see me on ebay as user, themackshack. Good luck, Mack