Looking for parts & service: mag 10A cannon downrigger

We have no parts manuals here at fixya. Sorry. Also this is the wrong product category.

I've had the same problem with my electric Walker down-riggers, the line guides didnt work well because of the crimp for the cannon ball return pully snags on the guide, the best I came up with is a cannonball snubber similar to ones used with Dipsey-Divers, made heavier for cannonballs, hope this helps

http://www.scotty.com/scotty-support/documents/ED_ManualRev1007.pdf

Corrosion is caused by small amounts of electrical current flow following the path of least resistance and jumping off one piece of metal to another one thus taking a small piece of metal with it when it goes. You have to either eliminate the current flow or slow it down or make it go somewhere else. The positive ion control in these downriggers can probably add to the problem. Also if you're fishing in salt water, it is a natural electrolyte and if two differnt kinds of metal are in saltwater, they creat a natural battery and produce enough electrical current to corrode the metal. I would suggest maybe using a sacrificial anode. It's a piece of metal with lower resistance to electrical current flow than the metal you're trying to use, thus is corrodes the anode before corroding the metal you're protecting. Anodes are made of metals like aluminum, zinc and magnesium. If you had a small piece of one of those metals and wrapped it around the downrigger spool before you wound the cable onto it, it would rust it out before rusting your cable. You can also try turning down your Ion Control. I've seen my cable rusting a little bit but it doesn't seem to be that bad or rust so fast. I'm wondering if you're using a different kind of metal for your cannonball?

score along the seam with a razor knife just below the cover where the screws are you need to reach an 1/16th inch deep insert a screw driver into the rubber gromet where the power cord goes in and pry open the cover be very carefull not to use any of the insides as a lever and use finess not brute force

Hi!
Make sure the cable is actually running in the pulley. The pulley is geared to the counter, so if the cable isn't turning the pulley, the counter won't be working.
It is quite possible to add a simple counter like the Unitrol series. (key #'s 12 & 13)
Here's a schematic for both:
Cannon Laketrol
Cannon Unitrol
Hope this helps!
Mike

I may be able to suggest a cure for downrigger #1. The switches sometimes have several terminals and they work differently than they look.
For example, if you have 6 terminals, 3 on each side of the switch. The left bottom and right bottom are a pair. The middle two are a pair and the top two are a pair. Then you have terminals that are separate on the right side with the middle terminal being common and the pair being right lower and middle, right upper and middle with corresponding left side action.

This point being that the switch for unit #1 is good as tested by Radio Shack. Its where you stick the wires on the terminals that is the problem.

You need a multitester and use an OHM setting without juice flowing through your wires. This way you can figure out the pairings of the terminals without burning something up.

I have the quick start manual for digi-trol II. I will try to scan it and post later today.
Kevin

Heeere you go!

DT IV Manual

Best of luck
Mike

Hello!
Here is the user manual for your downrigger:
DT IV Downrigger
The programming starts on page 12.

Best of luck!
Mike