Check the blade centre bolt for corrct tightness. If you have fitted a new blade, check to see if it is the type with a removable centre spacer (multi fit type) if it is, it sounds like the centre bolt has bee overtightened at some stage and deformed the spacer which now takes all the drive from the motor instead of the blade itself. Try giving the spacer a light file to remove any burrs. If all else fails, obtain a new blade which doesn't have the center spacer to avoid this problem
The first solution, regarding the spacer (which makes a blade with diamond shaped cut out in center useable on standard "Skil" type circular saws) (as opposed to older saws and worm-drive saws which need a diamond shaped hole) pegged my problem PERFECTLY: I'd had no problem with the Husky general purpose diamond abrasive cutoff wheel in my 7 1/4 inch Skil - brand saw for numerous projects, but it began to slip regardless of tightness of the blade bolt. This slipping even prevented tightening of the blade bolt when blade was property immobilized with a pair of pliers, the motor shaft simply turned and collar slipped on the back side of the blade. (this makes the 2nd answer sort of useless for some blade tightening situations when you HAVE set the saw down to stop the blade from turning) --the way I got around this tightening problem was to use the inertia of the motor to allow extreme tightening of the bolt by banging the wrench handle with another wrench or hammer; the initial inertia to get the heavy motor armature moving especially through reduction gearing allowed sufficient tightening) But, it didn't solve my problem-- after only a few minutes the blade started slipping again; I was only able to finish project by using a big washer I happened to have which spanned the shaft and made enough friction to give wobbly but useable results. I noticed even THEN that the little gold spacer referenced in answer 1, which came pre-installed in center of my Husky diamond blade , (RE answer # 1), was looking sort of chewed up around the edge like somebody back in the day had been shaving gold off the edge of a gold coin!; but I did not see on my own how that could ould cause my blade not to spin... Since the cone shaped blade washer seemed to offer plenty of area for friction on the blade. Thanks, "Contestant number one!" Until I looked this up on the miraculous internet and saw the answer from commentator number one. -Who knows, and my comment may help someone else, esp. my little "inertia" trick, for saws with no mechanism or hole to immobilize the motor shaft...Now the only question is, do keep my plan to have my wife buy me a new saw with a laser guide, like I hoped to, or simply buy a diamond blade for $18.00 or 20.00 with a new spacer or the diamond cut-out still in place, and go to a better restaurant here on Fathers' Day? or even see if, heaven forbid, Home Depot HAS REPLACEMENT SPACERS for diamond cut out, though I think the hole in the diamond has received some wear from my abuse also...lol
This happened to me. After all the usual fixes failed to resolve the problem, I found that the key that holds the 33 tooth gear that drives the blade had sheared and allowed the shaft to turn but not the gear. I had a lot of difficulty removing the gear and key as the key had jammed between shaft & gear. Eventually I sawed the gear off the shaft and purchased both parts from Bunnings. I have yet to recive these parts so I cannot report on the outcome.
SOURCE: Blade is slipping, whole spindle is slipping,
From the description it sounds to me like the bolt holding the blade in place isn't tight enough, obviously. If there isn't a button on the saw that stops the blade from rotating when you're changing out the blade. Try this--when tightening down the blade, put it on the saw, then open the guard and rest the blade on a piece of scrap wood to stop if from moving. Then fully tighten down the bolt that holds the blade in place and you should be fine.
SOURCE: I bought a second hand Power Devil Mitre Saw PDW
Try the blade first. It should be tight and have no real wobble to it. Although my first guess would be the brushes, These are generally accessible from the outside. There is often a number or something to identify the brush so that you can get a proper replacement pair. If the motor starts right away and the blade does not then the blade is loose. re- reading your post it could well be the blade. Often these are reverse threaded, so you tun them clockwise to get it off. You may well want a new blade anyway, and there are different types for different jobs. Watch your fingers and unplug the saw when messing with the blade- it is easy to hit the switch when undoing the blade.
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