Need schematic diagram, some advice and ultimately replacement parts

the heating element most likely knackerd.............

cheers

Hi there - I have a buttkicker with some burnt resistors - is this repairable ?

Assuming that you have GE dryer DBXR463ED0WW,
Sounds like there is a couple of problems there:

1. The start switch is stuck and needs replacement/repair, part number WE4X881
2. The clothes taking too long to dry may be due to a) clogged dryer vent; b) one or both heater coils burnt out; part numbers: WE11X10007 for restring coils only or WE11M23 for whole heater assembly c) problem with temperature selector switch, part number WE4M407
3. There might be a problem with timer (WE4M271), but before replacing it I'd suggest taking care of the long dry problem first. In some models, timers are wired that way so the timer advances only when there is heat, so check the schematic.
   

There should be a schematic diagram inside the control panel, use it to for diagnosing the problems you described.

Good luck,
Vlad
First Choice Appliance

You will need to open the back and look for burnt wiring or a bad heater coil. Unplug the drier.Pull the drier away from the wall, unhook the vent hose and remove the back protective cover. Looking closely at all the wiring, you may need a vacuum to get any lint out of the way. Check for burnt wiring to any control switches, most times they will burn at a terminal, all you have to do is replace the wire end, you can buy crimp on terminal ends from most any parts store. Next if no burnt wiring is found you have to check the coil. Look for large wires that hook to large terminals. You may need to get your hands on a Volt/Ohm meter to check the coil for a break in the coil. Remove the wires and read in ohms for a open circuit. If you get no reading you have an open coil and it will need to be replaced. Also it can be the timer but it is rare if all else is working.

I'd love to help, but without the make amd model, there is little I can do. Please update this with that info.

Also, just in case the schematic isnot available, please list the circuit designations of the parts that are burnt. These are the numbers listed under or next to the parts on the circuit board.


Thanks,
Dan

Hello Mattpatoska,

I have no idea what your refrigerator really is...
as I attempt to research I get longer
model numbers... (USA)

Were I you... and ready to put it (frig) out of my misery..
I'd first at least try to look at the compressor...!!

Is it getting AC...??
(really nice No contact volt tester on Amazon)
((see below))

Should I try to ...
Open the AC (??)
(so as not to smoke the defrost/compressor control board)

and apply AC directly to PROVE/DISPROVE
your OWN hypothesis.

I would (and have the scars (experience) to
Prove it...

My big piece of advice:
Take notes & pictures of what wires go WHERE...!!


Klein Tools NCVT 3 Non Contact Voltage Tester with Flashlight Amazon com


Carnac the Magnificent

i need a schematic diagram of a fridge

Hi,
Similar problem, maybe inherent to this sub, found wiring diagram ( can't remember where right now) R46 is 150 ohm - 1/4 watt. As informed by many sources - burnt resisitor just result of other fault - on replacement resisitor just smoked it up again. Have tech attempting to separate power supply from amp to locate problem. WIll post result if faulty component is located. Not much of a sub anyway - just can't bear to throw it away for cost of minor component.

If the resistors go to the gates of the power supply FETs, the FETs are probably shorted. Measure the resistance between the gate and the drain (no power applied to the amp). It should be at least several thousand ohms.

If you can take high res photos, send them to my email address:
[email protected]

I did find a source for ccfl inverter transformers.The site is www.bourns.com