It does not boil water.

The thermostat for the final rinse booster might be set too high causing the water to boil in booster tank. Water will then spray even when cycle is complete. Turn the thermostat down to 180f or 82c to comply with health regulation. If problem continues replace booster tank thermostat. Or if you have hard water pull thermostat and clean

Turboboil is a feature offered on a number of Kenmore electric ranges and cooktops. Without you model number it's hard to get into specifics - but turboboil is a special, high wattage heating element that delivers up to 3KW of energy to a specific heater on the cooktop. If I understand correctly, you would only use this setting when you wish to bring water to a boil in the shortest period of time possible - then change to a normal burner heat setting to maintain the temperature of the water in the pot.

Remember, an electric heat element is turned "full on" and "full off" as needed to maintain temperature (unlike a dimmer knob controls a light bulb). The turbo boil turns on a "double heater" to rapidly heat the water - after water reaches 212 degrees, it can not be heated any further (it turns into steam) so you should switch to a normal burner mode from that point forward.

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Run some WHITE vinegar through it, followed by plain water a few times. The heating system gets a buildup in it and requires cleaning from time to time.

The switch has to turn off when the water boils as the heat generated must cut off the switch. If this wont work the bimetal is not working and the switch is not responding.
You will need to replace the switch. Please contact the dealership for the spare.
check this link for spare:
http://www.espares.co.uk/brands/kettles/p/1102

Unfortunately the problem is in the switch mechanism, and will need to be replaced to correct the problem. My sense is it would be cheaper to replace the kettle than trying to find somebody to repair it.

I think you would only solve this problem by cleaning the thermostat contacts, or replacing the thermostat which wouldn't be worthwhile as it's likely to be cheaper to buy a new kettle.
Besides this , just getting into the kettle needs special 3 tongue screwdriver and then a certain technique to open it up without damaging the plastic parts. Im'e afraid its a throw-away world now and its not good .

Our first Smart Kettle was great and worked well for years, finally died so we bought another. Right from the first boil it seemed to boil for about 2 or 3 minutes before turning off and then either didn't boil or made beeping sounds when not being used so after a couple of weeks we returned it and it was replaced. Great. But now this new one seems to boil and boil before turning off so maybe they are just faulty now. Any suggestions?

Just fixed this problem and repaired the corner of the Ceran cooktop.

Disclaimer: These cooktops run on 220V and will kill you if you don't know how to work with electricity. If you're unsure, get some help.

The boiling water slopped out of your pot, and went over to your controls (knobs) and went down the shaft and into a component call "Infinity Switch". The water caused the switch internally to weld one of the two internal sets of contact points into a permanent position. The fix is to replace the
"Infinity Switch" that the boiling water spilled into. The Infinity switch is the component that the control knob slides on to.

In my cooktop one of the infinity switches failed and appears to damage the adjacent switch. Mine actually caught on fire and damaged the wiring and the connector. Hopefully you are better off. Since they were in such close proximity I replaced them both. For $20 you might consider the same. I replaced both to be safe and they were $21.47 each.

My cooktop has 4 elements 2 small, 1 large and 1 combined (small and large) surface. A large element was definitely damaged and possibly a small element. I ordered both. I mention this in case a multi-element was damaged on your cooktop.

You will need to contact either Jenn-Air or someone. Since you can't see an exploded parts list online, you'll have to use the schematic. It is in a plastic sleeve and it stuck to the side of the ventilator housing underneath the cooktop.

When you wire the new part in, make sure you have the wiring correct or when you turn it back on you will burn up the new part.

I hope this helps.

Check your water inlet valves. Seems like the valves have went away. Also check the computer board and inline fuse to make sure everything is correct. Inlet valve are located behind the supply line hoses. Please rate. Thank you

e mail [email protected]

Send them model number
PDC code (on bottom of kettle)
your name and address
where and when device was purchased
They can send you a part or send you a FEDEX label for a warranty repair.

This is a very common problem