I have a Kenwood KAC-9104D and it was working fine yesterday and suddenly this morning i turn on my car and the subs werent hitting at all. My i opened my trunk i noticed that the red triangle on my amp was flashing any ideas?

The Kenwood KAC-7252 and KAC-9104D are both great amps, but they have different strengths and weaknesses. The KAC-7252 is a 5-channel amp that can output 75 watts per channel at 4 ohms. It also has a built-in crossover and time alignment, which can be helpful for getting the most out of your woofers. The KAC-9104D is a 4-channel amp that can output 100 watts per channel at 4 ohms. It also has a built-in subwoofer output, which can be used to power a separate subwoofer.
If you are looking for an amp that can power all of your speakers, the KAC-7252 is a great option. It is also a good choice if you want an amp with built-in crossover and time alignment. However, if you are looking for an amp that can power a subwoofer, the KAC-9104D is a better choice. It is also a good choice if you want an amp with more power output.
Ultimately, the best amp for you will depend on your specific needs and budget. If you are not sure which amp is right for you, it is always a good idea to consult with a professional car audio installer.
Here is a more detailed comparison of the two amps:
Kenwood KAC-7252

• 5-channel amp
• 75 watts per channel at 4 ohms
• Built-in crossover and time alignment
• MSRP: $399

Kenwood KAC-9104D

• 4-channel amp
• 100 watts per channel at 4 ohms
• Built-in subwoofer output
• MSRP: $499

I hope this helps!

Kenwood KAC-9104D

Product Features

• Mono subwoofer amplifier
• 500 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (900 watts x 1 at 2 ohms)
• Variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz at 24 dB per octave)
• Bass boost (0-18 dB at 40 Hz )
• Subsonic filter (15/25 Hz, 18 dB/octave )

On the outputs of the amp there is:

+ + - -
1 2 3 4

terminals. Internally in the amp the positives (1 and 2) are connected together and negatives (3 and 4) together. So there is no difference between hooking up in any of the configurations 13, 14, 23 or 2->4. If its a matter of style, probably use the 14 set, since they're furter apart and harder to short out that way, but electrically it doesn't matter.

Be sure the RCA cables are attached and in good condition.
Be sure the remote wire from the deck is hooked up and good.
Be sure the GAIN control is turned up.
Volume on head unit is up. Make sure BASS options are not turned off on deck.
Be sure wires are going the right way. + to + & - to -
Loose wires in the box. Make sure subs are hooked to the terminals inside box.
Check all fuses on amp to determine if 1 or more i blown.

i had the same problem with the same amp. it was the internal positive terminal on the amp. the connection was bad. i was an easy fix.

red light is protection. subs r bad, if it works on other speakers and not yours.

You should check and verify first the output signal in the amplifiers by using a multimeter on the db range, this is to identify good output of the amp. After that check the polarities for correct wire orientations.You should connect the speakers one at a time to check.

maybe when hook up something sorted and blew the sub side .I have seen it happen

your amp is blown up

ok i have the same amp and 1 2ohm dvc sub and was woundering the same thing but from futher research and askin sum xsperts. What i found out is that it is only one channel and even tho there are 2 (+) and 2(-) they actually connect inside the amp makein it one . so if u wanted to wire sumthing parralel u wouldnt have to hook wires from one coil to the other on the speaker , u can just hook it up to the amp. so basically both +'s and negatives on the amp are actually one within it so all the power if you only use one set of them and if u wanna add more subs its just easier to add to the amp by using the xtras .