Pioneer SD-P62A3-K 62" Rear Projection Television Logo

Question about Pioneer SD-P62A3-K 62" Rear Projection Television

1 Answer

Ok my projection tv when i turn it on it cuts right back off. and the longer i leave it alone the longer it will stay on,but lately it wont come on at all. all i hear is a clicking sound when i turn it on with the green light then it clicks again and a red light comes on. i have opened the front and noticed when the tv shuts off by itself a red alight also comes on on the main board inside. i just bought this tv for 350 and i dont want to go spend all this money to fix this old thing. i want to know if i can fix it myself... please help!!

Posted by bvara on

  • Anonymous Dec 04, 2008

    When I turn it on, it clicks on to green and simultaneously turns red to off. I have tried the trouble shooting process in accordance with the manual, but to no avail. What could possibly cause it to shut off just as fast as you can turn it on?

    Its like car problem, when you think its the starter, it ends up being the solenoid switch instead.

    Can you help me?

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1 Answer

Hjalmer Lamminen

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It would be difficult to fix without an oscilloscope.
I tried to finding a repair manual for your model, but older model manuals are hard to find.

Posted on Mar 17, 2008

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Whirlpool Side by Side American style Fridge Freezer too hot and too cold! I have model S20D FSS10-A/D Service number 8586 161 15000 Side By side FF - and after replacing many components on the rear board 13 years ago it has been running well. However.... with a new fault I am hoping that the symptoms may allow someone to point me in the right direction. Not having a circuit diagram has been a hindrance. Over last few years the front panel inside in the fridge in my model has been developing a display fault - it started with the LED display winking out briefly about twice a second. The mark/space of time for the 'winking out' changed slowly to 50% on 50% off twice a second to eventually become just flashing on briefly twice a second and finally off all the time. However, the default settings/functioning of the FF has been working fine so didn't need to use the panel. However, can't read any fault codes that might be there I don't think that the buttons are doing anything on the panel. It has 15v supply but I don't know what supply voltage from the rear PCB should be. Then... A few weeks ago the house RCD tripped once and the fridge bulb had blown ********* stain on bulb interior and Relay RL3 was chattering randomly - I took the board out and noticed a fried circuit track where it looped thinly either side of component hole that was unused. I soldered in a bridge over the gap. Restarted the FF. From then the freezer cools to -32c and warms up to -2c and down to -32 etc.. The fridge varies in temp but does go as low as 0c and high as +9c. Alongside this, when the compressor is not running we can heard a ticking noise and identified that the compressor fan was turning slowly about ?100 rpm There's no ice build up, the freezer to fridge air louvres are opening and closing when you switch the FF on, and do seem to open and close at different times. The evapourator fan seems fine as does the compressor fan, the bottom of the fridge is dust free and the rear panels are all on to allow proper cooling of the condensor motor. I pulled the board again, checked all the capacitors I have a slightly different board to many and all the capacitors I had used from one brand have failed again. I took all the caps out and measured them. C6, C16 should have been 0.68uF and were in the order of a few nF C14, 26, 27,28 should have been 0.1uF and were 0,.6nF, 2nF, 10nF and 38nF respectively. All other film and electrolytic capacitors were within tolerance. I replaced all the faulty caps thinking that I had found the display problem because you had told me in the past that C6 and C16 relate to the front panel and the cooling issues and fan issues but NONE had been cured :- I checked the continuity to the front panel of all connectiions and they're fine. Also checked the 2 electrolytics on the front board. So I am at a bit of a loss. I have checked the zener diodes in situ and all have about 6v forward voltage drop I cannot find a replacement board due to different connectors on my unit - so unless I can fix we will have to fork out for a new FF :-

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