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40l freezer, when started the compressor cycles on/off every few seconds, whatever the thermostat is set to, (both with 240 and 12 volts) rather than staying on.
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If your refrigerator is short cycling, it can be caused by a number of issues including: An incorrectly set thermostat inside your refrigerator. Dirt and dust on the coils that prevents efficient operation. Faulty capacitors or relays that prevent the compressor from staying on. Apr 14, 2019
If the compressor on your Delfield 6125S freezer is not staying running, there could be a few possible causes. Here are a few things you can check:
Check the thermostat: Make sure that the thermostat is set to the correct temperature and that it is functioning properly. A faulty thermostat can prevent the compressor from turning on.
Check the compressor relay: The compressor relay is responsible for turning the compressor on and off. If the relay is faulty, the compressor may not stay running. You can check the relay by using a multimeter to test for continuity across the relay's terminals.
Check the compressor motor: The compressor motor could be faulty and not able to start or stay running. You can check the motor by using a multimeter to test the winding resistance.
Check the condenser coils: The condenser coils could be dirty or clogged with dust, which can cause the compressor to overheat and shut off. Clean the condenser coils with a brush or compressed air to remove any dust or debris.
Check the compressor's oil level: If the oil level is low, the compressor could be damaged.
Check the overload protector: The overload protector is a safety device that is designed to protect the compressor from damage caused by excessive current. If the overload protector has tripped, the compressor will not start or stay running.
It's worth noting that a compressor not staying running could also be caused by a more complex issue, such as a problem with the compressor's electronic control module. If none of these steps resolve the issue, I would recommend contacting a qualified technician or the manufacturer for further assistance. They will be able to diagnose and repair the issue with your freezer and give you an estimate of the cost of repair.
There are plenty of reasons this could happen like the following:
PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Loud operating sound level
• See "Sound Information" section for explanation of normal operating sounds
Freezer too warm. Compressor not operating
• Freezer temperature set too warm
• Defective compressor
• Defective overload or relay
Refrigerator too cold
• Refrigerator temperature set too cold
• Chefs Pantry control set too cold or misaligned allowing freezer air to escape into refrigerator section
• Freezer temperature set too cold
• Restricted condenser air
• Refrigerant shortage or restriction
• Refrigerant overcharge
Freezer too warm. Compressor cuts off on overload
• Heavy usage
• High ambient
• Restricted condenser air
• Defective condenser fan motor
• Loose or missing condenser fan blade
• Improper voltage
• Defective relay or overload
• Compressor motor winding
• Non-condensibles in system
• Refrigerant overcharge
Freezer too warm. Compressor operating
• Freezer temperature set too warm
• Restricted condenser air
• Defective condenser fan motor
• Opened door
• Heavy usage
• Defective freezer fan motor
• Opened defrost thermostat
• Opened defrost heater
• Loose or missing freezer or condenser fan blade
• Heavily frosted evaporator
• Refrigerant shortage or restriction
• Inefficient compressor
Refrigerator too warm
• Refrigerator temperature set too warm
• Freezer temperature set too warm
• Return air or air supply duct blocked
• Chefs Pantry control set too warm or air supply tube blocked
• Heavy usage
• High ambient
Problem
Possible Cause
Freezer too cold
• Freezer temperature set too cold
Long off cyde
• Low ambient
• Freezer temperature set too warm
Short off cycle
• Heavy usage
• High ambient
• Freezer temperature set too cold
• Light constantly on
• Poor door gasket seal
Long or continuous run cyde
• Heavy usage
• High ambient
• Inadequate condenser air flow
• Freezer temperature set too cold
• Loss or restricted refrigerant
Short run cycle
• Light usage
• Low ambient
• Freezer temperature set too warm
Exterior cabinet condensation
• High humidity. Design accepts beads of water on cabinet exterior after 4 hours with 0° to 2°F (-18° to -17°C) freezer food temperature and 38° to 40°F (3° to 4°C) refrigerator food temperature in 84% R.H. conditions. See "Typical Sweat Pattern" section under above conditions.
• Freezer temperature set too cold
• Poor door gasket seal
• Insulation void
Thermostat. An incorrectly adjusted thermostat can cause the freezer's compressor to start and kick off. ... The inside temperature of the freezer determines when the thermostat sends the signal to power the compressor. Set the thermostat to a lower setting to see if the compressor starts and then stays on.
Seems that the compressor has some fault within the unit as it takes in more current under pressure. Sometimes it can be due to fault within the compressor, failure of the valve , O-rings. Now shut down the fridge for about 6 hours and then plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours. Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge. If there is no ice formation we have a big issue as the compressor and gas must be checked out. , if RPM of motor is low check capacitor. . Please check this link for tips :
Good day, When the thermostat is turned on, the fan and compressor should come on and start at the same time. If the compressor continues to run and the fan doesn't, then the fan motor or the wiring to it are suspect.
Quote (The fan motor is o.k ). I doen't know how you tested it, but it still remains suspect, since the thermostat sends power to both of them at the same time.
Some thing does not add up.
Things to check:
Is the compressor pumping properly?
Get a second opinion on the freon level.
Is there something effecting air flow in the conditioned space?
Are there regular defrost cycles and is the evap completely cleared at the end of the cycle?
You have problem with the motor compressor,it is trying to start, but cannot for one reason or another, could be siezed motor, sticking start relay.etc'
It is stopping and starting due to the motor overload device cutting in and out. it acts as a safety device.
This is usually associated with a serious malfunction..Plz rate my solution.
Thanks.
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