Battery Back Up receptacles no longer work

If the TV AND the DVD player are not powering on, then it sounds like the problem is at the receptacle or power strip, where the TV and the DVD player are plugged in. Make sure the receptacle or power strip is working. Plug something else in, a lamp, a radio, anything, and see if it works. If it doesn't then the power strip is off or not working or the wall receptacle is not working.

Hi and welcome to FixYa!

There could be a few reasons for this.

You may want to try another charger for the computer. It may be your actual cord.

Your soldering may have come loose to your and you may have to resolder the power receptacle to put it firmly back in place again or take it to a technician to have it professionally done.

If the whole receptacle is damaged, you will have to know the make/model of your computer and order a new part.

Hopefully, you still have the manufacturer warranty on your computer and you can just send it in to be repaired if it 2 or 3 solution.

I had a Toshiba that did the same thing and i used another cord. It wouldn't stay charged very long when unplugged though and i had to replace the power receptacle. In any case, you should get your receipt and take your battery back in where you purchased it and try one of the solutions provided.

Please rate this solution if it was helpful!

KittyTech

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/carolyn_427ff26936286336

The easiest answer would be to wire them in the exact same way as they wired before with the prevoius receptacle. However, as I am assuming that is no longer a possibility...

If this is a normal receptacle that does NOT work off of a wall-switch, then I suspect that one of those black wires is the power feed, one of those white wires is the neutral from the breaker, and the other two sets of wire are branch circuits to the other receptacle. If that's the case, connect all three black wires to the receptacles 'hot' screw (probably brass or copper), and connect all three white wires to the receptacle's 'neutral' screw (probably galvanized, silver color).

If the receptacle used to power off of a switch, honestly, a written descipriton isn't going to do it justice. You'll need to understand the role of each three sets of wire before you can wire properly. If that's the case, say so, and I can attempt to walk you through it.

If I understand correctly, your are replacing a GFCI receptacle with another GFCI receptacle

And your existing GFCI has 3 black and 3 white wires

And there is not a switch involved in the changeover.

I downloaded the manual from Lutron
http://classic.lutron.com/CMS400/techinfopage.aspx?id=22163

Every wiring diagram in manual shows:
Black wires connect to brass-colored screws
White wires connect to silver-colored screws

The brass and silver colored screws are typical of all residential receptacles. The color-code tells the electrician which terminal gets the black and white wires.

Are you having a problem putting 3 wires onto 2 screws?
It is a common problem.
You can buy a short piece of white and black wire at hardware store
Lets work on the black wires as example:
Strip back insulation on short piece of black wire
Hold together two of your black wires and start twisting them together
Now add the short wire to the two black wires you started twisting
Now twist together the two blacks and short black
So three wires are twisted together and you have a short lead that can connect to screw on GFCI
Put a wire nut over the twisted wire
Now you're ready to connect other end of short black wire to brass-colored screw
This reduces the number of wires that connect to screws

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-twist-electric-wire.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-select-right-wire-nut.html

try holding down the power button until it turns on. I had the same problem and this turned the plugs on. good luck.

If it's more than 3-4 years old chances are the batteries need replacement. Typical lifespans are 3-5 years on most batteries.

check whether the batterries are ok, if  yes check whether the system is charging.

YOur UPs is defective. Check the battery. DId you connect it when you first set it up?



Hope this helps.

"Reverse polarity" is the term used to describe the condition where electrical wires are connected to the wrong terminals of a receptacle; it's a common condition that can be hazardous if the "hot" side of your electrical system gets connected to certain types of lamps or equipment. It's common because it's an easy mistake to make when hooking up wires and because receptacles work fine even when the polarity is reversed. You generally don't know the condition exists unless you look for it. If you think you're home's wiring is a bit haphazard or may contain some conditions of reverse polarity, it's a good idea to check for it. You can buy a simple circuit tester for less than $20. Just plug it into all duplex receptacles; test both the top and bottom. If you discover reverse polarity: 1) Shut off the circuit breaker that serves that receptacle (the tester's lights will go out). 2) Unscrew the cover plate from the receptacle, and use a voltage tester to be sure none of the wires in the electrical box are still "hot." 3) Unscrew or release the wires from the receptacle and re-fasten them to the proper terminals--white to the silver (neutral terminal and black to the brass hot terminal. The bare or green wire should connect to the green screw. 4) Put the cover plate back on, turn the circuit back on, and test the receptacle again. Note: If the tester indicates reverse polarity but the wires are hooked up to the proper terminals, call an electrician.

By far the most common problem with a receptacle is that it doesn?t work. Because receptacles are very inexpensive and easy to replace, it makes sense to replace them when they cease to work properly. But before you go to the trouble of buying a new one and installing it, make sure that the old one is truly defective. For a non-working duplex receptacle, first make sure the problem isn't with the appliance or lamp. Some appliances, such as hairdryers, have overload protectors that automatically shut them off if they begin to overheat. Try a second appliance or lamp in the receptacle. If the receptacle still doesn't work, you'll usually find that the circuit breaker has tripped or the fuse has blown, the receptacle has become faulty, or there is a switch that operates that receptacle and it needs to be turned on. The problem is rarely the wiring. 1) Test the receptacle with a second lamp or appliance. 2) Be sure that one half of the duplex receptacle (or the entire receptacle) isn't controlled by a switch in the room. 3) Check the circuit breaker (or fuse) for that receptacle's circuit to be sure it has not tripped (or blown). If it has, reset the breaker or replace the fuse, and try plugging a working lamp or appliance into the receptacle again. 4) If it still doesn't work, turn off the receptacle's circuit breaker, unscrew the cover plate from the receptacle, and use a voltage tester to be sure none of the wires in the electrical box are still "hot." Then check to be sure that the wires are securely fastened to the receptacle's terminals. 5) Look for signs of charring. Replace the receptacle if it looks damaged. 6) Put the cover plate back on, turn the circuit back on, and try the receptacle again. If it still doesn't work, turn the circuit back off, remove the receptacle cover, and replace the receptacle with one that has the same amp and voltage ratings. 7) If this doesn't solve the problem, call an electrician.