Pool controls act as if not getting power- bad control board?
I am not able to engage the heater- the power panel acts as if it is not getting power, but the pool equipment in general is running. Is it possible the control board is bad and approx. how much to replace it vs. new heater? The heater is 6 years old.
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Re: pool controls act as if not getting power- bad...
Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com. I would suggest you hire a local pool heater technician to diagnose the problem for you. Any decent tech can ID the problem and likely have it fixed in an hour or so and it could be something as simple as a blown transformer which with parts and labor would be under $200; far less than a control board and a fraction of the cost of a new unit. Questions to ask a potential tech would be how much an hour? Is there a service call or travel fee? Do you carry replacement parts on your truck or stock them nearby? How long do you guarantee your work? If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved! John
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RT3 series has T104 240 volt timer -or- T103 120 volt timer, -plus- low voltage transformer for pool light.
The circuit breaker can be used for transformer, or another outlet or nearby light etc, or it can be used for a T103 120 volt timer.
To trace the wire back to breaker box.... open you main panel and start turning off breakers one at a time and label the panel.
See if you have single breaker or double breaker supplying power to pool equipment.
That's possible...but you would definitely notice the heater doing HIP HOP dance moves and making lots of racket - banging and clanging! And your heat exchanger would've melted and pool would probably empty out as it was flooding your equipment room!
because if there's 400,000 btu's of heat (Which IS a lot) being generated by the burner tray, under the heat exchanger, with very little water going thru it... What do you think the result would be???
I would suspect that it is not the valve making the noise. I would bet it is the thermal expansion of the metal that you are hearing. Other than that, I have seen cases where there is a flow control valve, and depending on its operation, when it opens or closes on spring power it will over shoot and make a loud clicking noise as the clutch overshoots. This will usually only be about 2-4 clicks though, and around pool equipment I doubt you would hear much of it. I would bet more on the thermal expansion. Kind of like the clicking noise you will hear after you have parked your car and the engine is cooling down.
Your pool heater should be powered only when the pool pump is in operation. When you turn on the pool pump the indicator lights should on the heater should also come on. You should also check the breaker for the heater located at the sub-panel in the pool heater area. You can also try flipping off the breaker and the turning it back on to see if it was possibly tripped or sticking.
If you have the pool pump in operation,verified the breakers are on,verified that there is power to the heater then it is possible that pool heater has a malfunction. I recommend that you call a pool company to have this equipment serviced. Gas appliances can be dangerous due to possible fire or explosion so any other repairs would be made at your own risk.
You need an electrician before there is a fire. If the breaker is not tripping, then the breaker is bad.
Act now before the heat damages the box and you need full replacement. Absolutely put the metal cover back over the breaker box and keep the door closed. Move all flammables away fro breaker box area. Put a smoke detector right there. Put a fire extinguisher nearby. You don't put water on an electrical fire.
Before the electrician gets there, turn off as many electrical devices as you can. Don't run all at one time. Run just when needed. Electric water heater. Space heaters. Vent fans. Electric Stove. Electric Oven. Microwave. Heat AC. Electric Dryer. Washing machine. Power tools. Big screen TV. The outdoor lights, and swimming pool pump. Turn off as many indoor lights as possible.
Now the freezers and refrigerator have to stay on. Clean out the grilles so they run more efficiently.
Reducing your power consumption will be good practice. When you call the electrician, tell him the brand and amperage of your main breaker.
If the whole box needs replacement, you might want to upgrade the service to 150Amp. Some areas, it's code that old panels have to be upgraded to more amperage ... but the electrician will know the details. Call local electric supply house to double-check what the electrician tells you.
Is the equipment to heat and filter the hot tub separate from the pool equipment or do both bodies of water share a common heater and filter pump? In most cases they share a pump and heater with valves that direct the flow of water depending on how the pool owner wants to use the pools. The first thing you need to determine then is if the equipment is working properly. Is there flow of water to and from the spa? If so, is the heater burner kicking on? If it is running, is it running properly with sufficient gas pressure, 3-4" tall bright blue flames and stays on continuously during the heating cycle for the spa? What is 'very quickly' for the time to heat the water? In other words, if everything appears to be operating normally but the water is not warming fast enough or at all how much time is elapsing before deciding the heater is not working? How old is this equipment and how much experience do you have with this pool tech or the company they are from?