I have a Fisher@Paykel washer changed water pump and diverter pump work for 5 min. then stop. Power to washer but no lights on. Someone said check fuse; cannot find fuse.

To change to recirculating mode then the diverter wax solenoid must be getting power fed to it and making it swap over. Sounds like a fault on the control board and board will need to be changed.

- Motor control module fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 1:
Primary Source: Motor control module.
Action: Replace motor control module.

3 - Motor control module fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 3:
Primary Source: Motor control module.
Action: Replace motor control module.

9 - Size setting fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 9:
Primary Source: Motor control module.
Action: Reset machine size as per service manual instructions. If fault repeats replace Motor control module.

10 - Temperature Sensor (Thermistor) Error:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 10:
Primary Source: Thermistor.
Action: Replace Thermistor.

11 - Pressure Sensor Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 11:
Primary Source: Pressure Tube.
Action: 1 - Empty all water from the machine. Remove pressure tube from pressure sensor, clear pressure tube of any water and reconnect tube (blow down the tube is necessary). 2 - If fault repeats, replace Motor Control Module.

12 - Flood Protection Error:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 12:
Primary Source: Water Valves.
Action: If the water valves are on continuously, check that the water valves turn off mechanically by disconnecting power to the machine.
Secondary Source: Pump System.
Action: Check pump for blockage and drain hose for correct height(end not immersed in water) or kinked.
Tertiary Source: motor control module.
Action: If water valves are been driven on electrically, replace motor control module.

36 - Water Leak Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 36:
Motor control module has needed to top up the water level more than 4 times during wash/rinse cycle. Most likely cause is waster siphoning out or the machine has developed a leak.
Primary Source: Drainage system.
Action: Check that the hose is not less than 850mm from the ground
Secondary Source: Pressure tube.
Action: Make sure the pressure tube is fitted correctly and doesnt have any holes.

37 - Blocked pump:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 37:
Primary Source: Drain System.
Action:
1. Check that the drain hose has not been kinked.
2. Check the length of the hose. 1m is maximum extension.
3. Check drain pump winding for open circuit.(Note: Pumps are fitted with a thermal cut out and will reset after cooling)
4. Check for physical blockage to pump and hoses.

38 - Pressure Sensor Fault(empty reading during wash cycle):
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 38:
Primary Source: Pressure tube.
Action: Check if tube is fitted correctly, check for blockages or holes in the pressure tube.
Secondary Source: Motor Control Module
Action: Replace the module.

39 - Pressure Tube Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 39:
Same as fault 38.

40 - Bowl Dis-engage Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 40:
Primary Source: Mechanical.
Action:
1. Check that there are no clothes or other foreign objects preventing the clutch from re-engaging. Excessive suds can also stop the bowl rotating.
2. Check the clutch splines for physical damage.
3. Check that the pressure tube has not come off, kinked or blocked(blow down the tube.
Secondary Source: Motor Control Board.
Action: Change Board.

43 - Out Of Balance Switch Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 43:
Motor control module has found that signal returning from the out of balance switch indicates that the switch is permanently on or the harness to it is disconnected.
Action:
1. Check the level of the machine.
2. Check wiring to the switch.
3. Check switch for continuity and corrosion.

44 - Water in Bowl During Spin:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 44:
Primary Source: Drain system.
Action: Check for blockages/kinks in drain hose and function of the drain pump.

48 - Hot and Cold Inlet Valve Incorrect Signal:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 48:
Primary Source: Wiring.
Action: Check the wiring.
Secondary Source: Inlet Valves.
Action: Check the resistance of the coils.
Tertiary Source: Motor Control Module.
Action: Change Module.

49 - Cold Water Inlet Valve Faulty:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 49:
Action: See fault 48.

50 - Hot Water Inlet Valve Faulty:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 50:
Action: See fault 48.

51 - Diverter Valve Fault:
Fisher and Paykel washing machine error 51:
Primary Source: Blocked diverter valve.
Action: Check for foreign objects in the valve.
Secondary Source: Motor Control Module & Diverter Valve
Action: Plug the machine into the power point but off at the control panel. Check voltage on the plugs at the diverter valve. If voltage around 230V, change diverter valve and motor control module

Your diverter valve is jammed closed with lint.

It sounds like the drain pump or the diverter valve is restricted. Check to make sure that the drain hose is clear then disconnect power and lay the machine's front on a padded surface to access the drain pump and the diverter valve at the bottom of the tub. Remove the pump's inlet and outlet hoses then check and clear from any debris that may prevent water from draining out. Check the impeller for any damage or restriction.

Check the diverter valve for the same condition as the pump described above. The diverter valve is where the drain pump and the recirculation pump inlet hoses are attached from. Make sure the valve is in the drain position while the drain pump is working. Replace the drain pump and/or the diverter valve if deemed necessary.

Check fuse. Before replacing fuse, check water pump connections.

Your replaced water pump should be identical in design.

If wattage rating is more, increase the fuse rating slightly high.

You can order parts online from SearsDirect.com

Clogged pump stopped up drain. If the washer does not think all water was pumped out in 8 minutes then it shuts down. Slow drain is my first inclination.


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

pump is a common fault and easy to change for about $25. all sound related. new machines are pretty inexpensive. your call

The pump itself is supposed to run during the fill portion of the REGULAR cycle. It is supposed to be mixing the incoming fresh water with your laundry detergent and pouring the solution on your clothes as the tub rotates slowly. If the water is draining out of the machine, then there has been some sort of issue with the DIVERTER VALVE. It either has a broken lever on it or an object has become wedged in it, holding it open all the time. If you try the PERMA PRESS cycle, you will probably find that cycle will work, as it does not use the recirculate function.

I would check the diverter valve first. You can tip the washer back and remove the hose clamps with no tools and shine a light up inside and look for an object. You also can inspect the lever and will clearly see if it is broken.

If the washer needs a diverter valve, the part number is a 426862P and is easy to change. You can get them from Fisher Paykel Parts:
http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/111-4/Diverter-Valve-GWL10-11-15.php

They also have downloadable service manuals (but I have pretty much told you what you need here)
Here is the GWL10 manual:

http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/115-15/GWL10US-Service-Manual.php

I had the same problem with my Fisher and Paykel washer. I replaced the diverter valve and it seems to be working fine. (Although I have only run one load so far.) I ordered the part from Fisher and Paykel. It came in 5 days. It was under $25, and it was simple to replace. Just make sure you get all of the water out of the washer first. There is a surprising amount underneath that has the potential to cause big problems if it leaks onto the pump.