DSW PRO 600 not getting signal from receiver. Why?

To troubleshoot this you need at least an ESR meter. Capacitors can fail with no outside indication.

If fuses blown there is a case to search for short circuited active parts examples are end-transistors caused by clipping speakers cable shorts leaking or convexed capacitors but any new fuse will blowing again and again also the bridge rectifier to make dc voltage inside the power supply of the subwoofer can caused this problem

check the diodes,for voltage stages.the unit may be getting power surges do to open(faulty) diodes

Many of these SUB amps ended up with Capacitor failures in the Power supply section . Find someone who works on amps or TVs to have a look see.

I have the same issue. It started after the phase switch (0 degree or 180 degrees) broke. Light is green but no sound.

you can download manual from this link
http://www.volutone.com/POLK-DSW1000-1200W-MICROPRO-8-SUBWOOFER-SATIN-BLACK-P11733.aspx
hope that it helped

This could be either a source or a sub problem.

The missing piece to this puzzle is the source identity and setup. Is IT set up correctly for a subwoofer?

If you want to test the sub by itself just temporarily feed one of your FRONT speaker outputs directly to its Speaker IN connectors.

... Or ANY device or source you have can be directly connected to its RCA Line In. BE WARNED - IF IT WORKS IT WILL BE LOUD

Register and download the manual for free at retrevo.com

http://www.retrevo.com/support/Polk-Audio-DSW-microPRO-2000-Subwoofers-manual/id/23015dj593/t/2/

The unnamed elctronic source will have a manual, too. Use it to troubleshoot.

Hello
There is some short inside its circuit board, and you are seeing the short indication. Usually, the short will be with its output section, especially output to subwoofer. In an output short, we cannot predict the which components have failed, because, modern sets' output section is closley related to its tone amp section, directly coupled with. Therefore, there may be some fault occured to that stage also. Sometime it may not be. But when replacing components in its output section, most of the tonel section components also should be checked, otherwise the replaced output component will fail as soon as you switch on the set. If you have sufficiant knoledge in digital elelctronics, you can do it by yoursef. A good qulaity digital multimeter must be with you to proceed. The more you need is patience and concentration. if you have all, go to its woofer output stage, and check for faulty component. OK.

Is this NEW? Or did it just fail spontaneously after working for awhile?

Is this just a remote control issue or is the sub dead, too?

From the manual...

No sound coming from subwoofer.

If hookup is "SUB OUT" to LFE, check and make sure your receiver is set to Subwoofer=YES. If hookup is via speaker wire, check that the polarity of the wires is correct.

Subwoofer has no power.

Is the AC MAIN switch on? Check outlet; check fuse after unplugging the subwoofer. The fuse is located under the power cord
receptacle. Fuse type and rating is found on the back panel.

Remote control doesn't work.

Remove the plastic tab to activate the remote control's battery or try replacing the battery. Ensure the IR sensor is not blocked.

If it's a new problem with a previously working remote...

http://remotes.com/remotes/servlet/rs?a=Display&contents=help_deadremote&uuid=A12954406270641

It describes a way to possibly fix your remote or at least prove it works or doesn't.

Find new or replacement remotes:

http://remotes.com/remotes/servlet/rs?a=Display&contents=home&uuid=A12992635562861

or eBay: search for "(model) remotes", check the 'include description' box. Usually cheaper than the vendors.

if there is multiple jacks on the sub be sure they are hooked up correctly simple mistake if not no doubtly a simple overlooked setting on your amp good luck you will get it