Washer gets to spin cycle and sits full of water. Turn dial back to spin and spin water out fine. Could this be a worn drive belt slipping? Have a Maytag Atlantis top loader.

1. Check for clogged drain hose or sewer line.
2. Check the drive belt to make sure it isn't slipping.
3. Verify that the transmission clutch is not slipping.
4. Check the motor bearings to make sure the motor turns freely (is capable of full speed).
5. The pump may be worn out.

I had a similar problem with my machine after I replaced the timer with one from a different make and model, because the spin cycle on the replacement timer isn't long enough. What I do is turn the timer to redo the spin cycle. You can do this as a kludge, but I don't recommend it for normal operation; each of the possible causes listed above can lead will lead to total failure. and possible damage to other parts. Once you fix the machine, put bleach in it (no clothing!), set the water level to full, fill the machine and stop it half-way through the first agitate cycle. Let it sit for three hours or more, then start it again and let it finish the wash. That should take out any mold or mildew. You may want to arrange for extra ventilation for the chlorine fumes from the bleach.

If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.



• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.



• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.



• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)



• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.



• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.



• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.



• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

No spin, try these:

Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.

Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.


Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)

Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven.

On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.
The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights.

THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS,
THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

Hello acoach194 - If the washer is not agitating try the following steps:

1) Verify a circuit breaker isn't tripped

2) Advance the timer control dial slowly 360 degrees-

If the washer starts spinning, then the motor and drive belt are fine but that there is something wrong with either the timer control dial or the agitator solenoid. Call in a professional for this. If the washer doesn't budge, then verify that the drive belt(s) is attached and not broken by removing the back panel. If the belt is broken, then it will need to be replaced. If it is loose, then it will need to be tightened. A professional will need to do so by loosening up the bolt holding the motor and moving it on its swingarm (much like a car alternator) until there is a 1/2 to 3/4 inch deflection in the belt.
Some washers use reversing motors. It's possible the motor works on the spin cycle but not on the wash cycle. If so, once again call a pro.

3) Visually inspect the lid safety switch- Is it loose or cracked? If so, the washer might work intermittently, stopping at different cycles.

4) Check motor and drive belt- Remove the main access panel (usually in the back). Is the motor spinning, but the drive belt isn't? If so, then you have a drive belt problem.

Check for a belt. it may be worn or slipping.

Usually that means the drive belt is loose and slipping. You should be able to tighten or replace the belt.
To test the belt you have to remove the washer back.

Frigidaire washer will not take a overloaded tub without causing belt problems.
Unplug the washer.
Remove the 2 screws on the very bottom of the front washer panel.
Slide the front panel down slightly and remove it from the cabinet.
Inspect the belt around the motor pulley and transmission.
If it is worn at all it needs replacing.
You could plug the washer back in and set it to Spin cycle and watch for the motor to turn and the belt slipping to verify a bad belt.
Keep your hands,fingers and tools away from all moving parts.

If the drive belt is slipping during the agitate and both spin cycles for loaded conditions, I suspect that the drive belt is excessively worn. If it slipped only during a loaded spin cycle, I would have suspected that the sliding motor mount is gummed up and not moving to a belt tighten position during the start of a spin cycle. Since the unit drains with no problem for loaded and unloaded conditions, the pump belt should be OK. Replace the drive belt and clean the dust, gunk, detergent, etc, out of the sliding mount to make sure that it tightens properly when a loaded spin cycle starts. Note that on most models, the drive belt is designed to slip when spin cycles first engage, and they will continue to slip until after the drum has accelerated.

THE BELT THAT DRIVES THE DRUM MIGHT BE WORN, THE BELT IS NOT UNDER A LOT OF STRAIN WHEN WASHING AND MAY WORK FINE BUT WHEN IT GOES INTO THE SPIN CYCLE THE WEIGHT OF THE CLOTHES AND THE WATER WILL CAUSE THE BELT TO SLIP . I WOULD START THERE FIRST

Sounds like an intermittant timer, A slipping belt if it uses one or a clutch on the drum. I looked for this make and Model and its not in my data? Sorry I cant assist more.