Hobart Mixer A200 buzzing. The motor does not move at all. I replaced the capacitor, still didn't work. I checked the coils by voltmeter and it gives 9.0 ohms (don't know if thats good or bad). The agitator and planitary moved freely.
Please help. Thanks!
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Hobart A200 Stand Mixer
Beatriz, I looked through the entire manual, it shows no reverse option. Did you just get the mixer or did you have it repaired. It seams the mixer is either wired wrong or the gears that rotate the mixer were not assembled correctly.
Check the attached link,manual,instruction and guides, Good luck
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I think... without knowing that motor... that the capacitor is a start capacitor, and that the start switch may be trying to "start" the motor full-time instead of switching it out of circuit after it figures that the motor has spun up. I may be wrong - that design may be a capacitor-run motor (similar to a three-phase motor) - but I'm betting it's a start-only capacitor.
If you know someone with a capacitance meter, you could check the capacitor - for both capacitance (to be sure it matches the label) and leakage. Easy way to write that one off. Alternatively, you could rig it such that after the motor's wound up you could manually disconnect the capacitor and see what happens - either the motor stops or else the smoking issue stops.
Whatever you do, don't let it smoke very long. The varnish on the windings is only so thick.
If the gearing is all free to move and you replaced the motor capacitor that only leaves the motor. If you can remove the motor and test it "out of the gearing" that would confirm it. You have wired the capacitor correctly and used the correct one? Just asking! Are you sure the gearing isn't jammed up?
How old is the mixer? Could it have a brush style motor?
Easy to tell. It will have a couple of removable panels on the motor rear cover. The brush mount plate may have moved out of position, which retimes the rotor and stator windings. With the power disconected and the rear main cover removed, look at the internal screws for prevoius marks where the position might have been.
There are four possibilities to look at here. Assuming your mixer has a normal capacitor start motor (older a200's used a different style motor), possibilities are, in order of likelihood:
Motor start capacitor Start switch (electronic or mechanical) Burned wiring Motor start winding
The start capacitor is located at the rear of the mixer. Remove the rear cover (4 screws) and pull the cover towards you. Disconnect one wire from the capacitor and test with any multimeter.
The start switch, if electronic, is able to be tested, but not very easily. Once you've eliminated the other possibilities, it's time to replace the (electronic) start switch. If the motor has a mechanical start switch, it's easy to test: Remove the two wires at the rear of the motor and test for continuity with the motor stationary. A multimeter should show near zero ohms for a good mechanical start switch.
Burned wiring should be easy to spot with some careful inspection around the motor, capacitor, and start switch.
Start winding: Look closely at the stator (stationary part of the motor). If some of the copper windings look significantly darker in color than the others, it's likely the start windings were overheated (the start windings are the thinner copper wires - if you look closely, approximately half of the wires are thinner than the other half). Look for a wiring diagram behind the power switch and determine which wires leading to the start switch and/or capacitor are for the start windings and test for continuity across the start winding. You should read a fairly small value such as 5 - 15 ohms. Values significantly outside this range could indicate a partially open or partially shorted start winding.
It sounds like you get a degrading or bad start capacitor (locate right behind motor cover (see fig 22, page 12 of part catalog, cost $13). Here how you can check if your machine still work properly: 1- Rotate the agitator shaft manually to check for any binding. 2- remove two wires from the capacitor. 3- Use a small jumper, connect one end jumper to one wire and touch the other end jumper to second wire 4- As soon as motor start, remove the jumper. Good luck, If your ,machine have never have preventive mainternance it is a time to do so. (atva)
Assuming the unit is 120v, single phase, my money is on a bad electronic start switch (not to be confused with the on/off switch) It's not visible without some disassembly. Usually, it is located at the rear of the motor cavity. Take note of all the info on your model data plate then go here to obtain a parts breakdown on your particular mixer. http://www.hobartservice.com/Parts/
Hi, it is hard to determine exactly what the problem is without seeing it, however, that mixer usually uses a capacitor to help start the motor, and a switch, or relay, that are in the back of the unit. You probably will not find any troubleshooting guide, Hobart does not give up information easily. You can take it to an electric motor repair shop, and they will easily be able to tell which of those is the problem, and will be reasonable in price. Your other option is to contact Hobart locally for service assistance. Maybe one of the other Hobart techs here can help you out more.
does the motor have brushes? If so the mixer will have two removable covers on the back motor plate. If so take some light sandpaper to the part called the comutator that these carbon brushes ride on and make them shinny. If you have a newer style motor that doesnt have brushes. pull the motor cover and make sure the start switch is cleaned by sanding the contacts. If you check your wiring with a ohm/volt meter and it all checks good, well, the first question I should ask is does it hum? if not, the problems in the wiring or power switch. if it humes the problems in the comutator, start switch, capacitor or your motor is shot. unlikely for a mouse infestation. most likely wiring or switch problem.