What size socket to remove element on electric water heater

State point-of-use electric water heater plugs in.
Check that outlet has power.

The water heater must be full of water or elements burn out instantly.
Test the element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-point-of-use-water-heater.html

Match voltage to water heater:
This electric water heater, like all electric water heaters, will work on 120Volt, 208-240Volt or 3-phase unbalanced.
But wire size and breaker must match element wattage.
If you have outlet, check the wire size and breaker, and check what other devices are drawing power from same circuit, then add up total watts and compare with charts on link below.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html#water-heater

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

This sounds as if one element has failed. I always replace them in pairs. They should
be the 4500 watt element. Usually if the lower element fails this will occur as only the
top of the tank gets warm. You must shut off power at the breaker panel and make sure
at the top two connections on the upper thermostat (red and black) that there is no
power with a test light or meter.

Shut off water supply, attach hose to drain valve
open a couple of faucets or the shower and drain. If it does not drain, open the
water valve to purge the sediment and close it again. After water has drained remove
the heating elements by removing the two wires and using a water heater socket
(or 1 1/2 inch socket if you have a big socket set) and replace them.

As a side note, if you have removed the restrictor to the shower head this same
problem will occur.

Warm water is an indicator of possiblity of the bottom element is the only one working. The best solution would be to replace them both due to the cost is not to exspensive and the other one will go out if you replace just one. One new element will work the older one harder and it may lats for a little while, but evenually it will be in need of replacement and sinec you are working on it. It would be easy to do them both .

Turn power and water off and connect water hose to bottom of tank to drain water heater. Open a faucet's hot side to break vaccum so it will drain down. Once drained remove the elements by disconnecting electrical wires and remove elements with a 1 1/2 " element wrench or socket.

Replace elements and connect electrical and turn water back on and leave the faucet open to get all air out of system and water flowing from hot side on all fixtures in your house before turning power back on to water heater.

Hope this is helpful with your water heater adventures. Thanks

'Rheem 81VP15S point of use' is a single-element, 15 gallon, 120V electric.
Other 'point-of-use' sizes range from 2-1/2 to 6 gallon to 20 gallon.

Electric water heaters have 2 parts: thermostat and element. One is not functioning correctly. Most likely the element caused by sediment build-up.

How to determine if tank has element or thermostat problem:
Do not turn off water going into tank. Put hose on drain valve. Open drain valve. Does water come out like open spigot? If water does not flow, then heater is likely clogged with sediment.

Solution 1: If water flows out like a spigot, the thermostat is probably bad. Read: How to replace thermostat.

Solution 2: Water does not flow, so element is surrounded by sediment build-up and cannot heat water. You need to clean out tank with shop vac, and put in new element ... plan full day and 3 trips to hardware store. Simply draining tank will not remove sediment. Sediment is chunky and will not come out voluntarily.

Buy element before starting:
-Turn off electricity
-Open cover on side of tank, remove insulation (these have to be put back for proper operation of thermostat)
-The are 2 electrical parts >>the element and the thermostat which is located above element
-Element wattage is printed on element and also shows on label on side of tank
-I think Rheem element is held in place with 4 hex bolts
-Take photo of element to hardware store so you have part on hand before removing old element
-If element is 1-1/2' diameter hex type, you need inexpensive element wrench from hardware store + the element

Drain tank and clean sediment:
-Read: To open drain on water heater so water comes out
-Read: How to clean sediment out of water heater

1) Turn off power before touching water heater that is shorting or wet or was flooded.
2) Circuit breakers & fuses blow because of heat. A short will cause heat. Tighten screws on terminals inside box, listen for crackling sound/burning smell from loose-fitting parts.
3) Easy test for circuit breakers: move water heater wires to another same-size breaker. If same-size does not blow, then problem is breaker.
4) A short between fuse box and water heater could be gnawed electrical wire. Inspect wire.
5) Wires have size markings. 5500 watt water heater needs #10 wire. 4500 watt water heater needs #10 wire but can work with smaller #12 if distance is not long. See label on side of heater for wattage, voltage, etc. Element wattage is water heater wattage even with 2 elements.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Figure-Volts-Amps-Watts-for-water-heater.html
6) Short inside water heater can be elements or thermostat. Open covers and inspect parts for burning. Screws should be very tight against copper wire. Sediment could fill bottom of water heater cause lower element to short.
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http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

First thing is to cut power supply off at the breaker box. Next turn main water to the water heater off. Once power and water is cut of to the water heater you are now ready to drain the tank for element removal.
Once water is drained remove wires from element and remove with socket if it is that type of element or 4 bolt type.

Upon starting putting it all back together remember to open all faucet's hot side to purge out all air out of system before turning power back on.
Water need's to be running out of faucet's and no air before cutting power on. If you turn it on before air is out of system it will damage th enew element you just installed.

Hello EDAN I believe it is 1 1/16" socket.I had 1/2" drive & extention bar as it very TIGHT & hard to turn the rod nut.

Thread size 1 3/8" and they have a socket that a screw driver will fit through to remove elements at hardware stores.

First of all disconnect the power at breaker panel or there should be a dedicated shut-off switch if this is a newer building. At any rate make sure its disconnected before you drain the water heater if power is on when the element is not safely submirged in water it will melt instantly. You can do this with a circuit tester after removing the access panel for the element. Turn off the water at the valve above your heater or at main and drain down below the eelement. Disconnect the wires attached to the element and remove element. This can be difficult without the right tool. The element just screws into the tank by way of a large thin nut welded around the element. You have to get a wrench or maybe channel locks or preferably a large deep socket on this nut and turn it counter-clockwise if your lucky this will work. But because the nut is so thin and in a tight area you might need to get an "element wrench" at home depot or where ever. There are different sizes measure your element first. Its basically just a deep socket made out of cheap steel with a hex outer shape so you can put it over the element nut and use a wrench or pliers.
Put your new elemeent in re-connect the wires, remember where they were connected when you take the element out.
Fill the water heater turn on power and replace cover.

I would also suggest try to tighten the existing elemnt first. If the leak is at the seal and not the element itself then the seal may be at fault and not the element.
Check your warranty, if this is less than a year old you should have unlimited warranty including labor. But I know that rheem simply does't have warranty contracts in place with repair techs in some areas.
If your warranty is unlimited (includes labor) and efective then hold them to it.

after you shut off electric and water and drain tank they are unscrewed. they make a large socket like wrench to remove i have also removed using a basin wrench