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Posted on Mar 19, 2010
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Speaker compatibility ( Just got this new reciever with 120 volts power requirement of the receiver, but in the philippines voltage standard supply is 220. can i use 110 voltage supply instead? and I dnt have any idea how to mach speaker with my new reciever for good sound output. Since i got the reciever without its speaker. pls advice...

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Mark T

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  • Posted on Mar 19, 2010
Mark T
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First, the voltage. Your easiest solution would be to go to Radio Shack and buy a voltage converter. This will allow you to run 220 V appliances from your 110 - 120 V power supply. Make sure the unit you buy has a 2-blade plug on it like any other cord in your house.

The reason i say, make sure it looks like other cords in your house is because you can also buy a Travel Converter. The travel converter allows you to use your 120 V equipment in other countries (converts from 220 -> 110 instead of what you want 110 -> 220). These ususally have several odd-looking plugs with them that can be changed.

Also be sure you get an adapter that is for appliances and actually says it converts from 110 -> 220. Best bet is to talk with the Radio Shack, Frys or other electrical equipment store personnel. They have seen this question before.


For your second question, the speakers. High-end recievers are ususally sold without speakers. To find compatable speakers, look on the back of your receiver. It should say what power output (per speaker) your receiver will deliver. Usually between 35 and 100 W/channel. If you have a really powerful unit, then it may be upto 200W. This number will ususally be close to the speaker output jacks. Get speakers that can handle the power (speaker watts should be the same or Bigger than receiver watts). If you can't find speakers (or don't have speakers) that can handle that power, it is ok to use lower power rating speakers but don't turn the power up all the way. For example - if your speakers can handle 50 W and receiver can put out 100 watts/channel, then only turn volume up 25% of max. If speakers can handle 25 W and receiver is 100 W, only turn volume to 12% of max. This is only a short term solution - you will eventually not be able to resist turning it up more and you will "blow" your smaller speakers. This may also cause some damage to the output transistors on your receiver.

One other thing to look for on speakers - the "impedence rating". This is usually listed ont he speaker as 4, 8 or 16. On high power units, the 4 or 8 "ohm" is the common rating. The greek letter OMEGA may be used in place of the word OHM to show impedence ( the letter looks like a rounded version of _/\_ ). On high power receivers, you should make sure to match the impedence of the speakers with what the back of the receiver says to use (receiver will also say 4, 8 or 16 ohm - usually near the speaker output jacks - if not there, look all over the back panel or the owners manual).

Good luck.

-Please rate me

woozie38

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  • Master 608 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 19, 2010
woozie38
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The most likely answer is no. Unless the power transformer is of the multi tap type and has a voltage selector window on the back panel... Most speakers today have an impedance of 8 ohms. The impedance is all you need to worry about when matching speakers. You can fit 8 ohm speakers to a 4 ohm system, but you cannot fit 4 ohm speakers to an 8 ohm system. It would overload your oputput stages and cause them to fail. It's best to match 4 ohm with 4 ohm, 8 ohm with 8 ohms.etc.

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110/120 volt AC supplies used to be common around the world as did local direct current supplies but 220/240 volt AC supplies are gradually becoming the international standard.

lots of appliances used to be truly universal but as local direct current supplies are now virtually extinct, modern appliances are either dual voltage or single voltage.
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HP Compaq dx2300 Desktop PC?

http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/Home.jsp?lang=en&cc=us&prodTypeId=12454&prodSeriesId=3352967&lang=en&cc=us

90 percent of desktop computer failure, cab be attributed to;

A) The computer is dirty inside, to include the Power Supply.

B) The Power Supply is bad

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Why?

Because the CD-ROM is not working.

Primer:

Your Power Supply converts your household/business AC electricity, into 3 low main DC Voltages.

Depending on your country;
USA = 120 Volts AC
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Australia = 220 Volts AC
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This is converted into 3 low DC Voltages for the computer;

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Voltage times Amperage = Wattage

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This should be stated on the Power Supply label also.

A) IF, all of the LED lights were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

B) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.

C) A typical Processor can use 51 to 125 Watts of power.

[ Intel Pentium Dual Core E2160? Can use up to 65 Watts,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Pentium_Dual-Core_microprocessors#.22Allendale.22.2C_.22Conroe.22_.2865_nm.29 ]

You press the Power On button. This in turn presses against a Power On switch,

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

This in turn, activates the Soft Power On feature of the Power Supply, and turns it on.

The first chipset to receive power is the BIOS chipset.

The BIOS program looks to see what devices are connected, does a Ram Memory count, turns the Processor on, then hands the computer over to the Operating System.

[ Windows XP and Windows 7, are two examples of an O/S ]

Primer over.

Your Power Supply provides enough power to turn the Processor on, then falls to it's knees. Doesn't have enough power to keep the Processor on.

[ A typical CD/DVD drive requires 15 Watts of power. It isn't there when all of the other hardware needs power first ]

Suggest you find a Power Supply that is KNOWN to be good, and COMPATIBLE, for a test unit.

Or you can test the 3 main voltage's coming out of the Power Supply, with a Multimeter set to DC Voltage.

Or you can just replace the Power Supply.

I would prefer you test with another unit, or test the voltages, before you spend your hard earned money.
It's up to you.

Diagnose the problem first. I could be wrong with the above, but if you diagnose using a test unit, or test the voltages, we will know whether the Power Supply is the problem.

Always start with the power First.

Perhaps there is an unused computer you may have access to, and can borrow it's Power Supply for a test unit. Has to be KNOWN to be good, and has to be COMPATIBLE.

What is Compatible? Means it has to have at least the minimum power cables, and the Power Supply must fit in the computer case.

(It is an ATX power supply)

Need recommendations for a Power Supply, post in a Comment.
Also will step by step guide you in replacing.

Regards,
joecoolvette
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Ps the 321 is a very nice bit of kit..
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