Question about Toshiba 42H83 42" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready Television
Ok, so i do not see any red color, only blue and green. i need to replace my red color tube. i opened the set from the front, and can see all three tubes. the red one is on the left.
where can i find the model number of the part i need to purchase?
do you have any pointers on installing the new tube? i heard they are difficult to align.
SOURCE: Toshiba 55H70 Green CRT
Whgat you should have done was to take off the red tube socket and put that socket on the rear of the red tube onto the green tube. If the green worked then you know the green tube was good and the driver was bad. If a set is over 6 to 10 years old, and if you replace one tube, It will never get a good grey scale(B&W). I hope you didnt replace the tube when a driver was bad!
Posted on Sep 06, 2006
this sounds like a convergence issue.. one thing you are going to want is a good test dvd.. avia - guide to home theater or video essentials are two very good ones. anything that will supply you with test patterns and let you pause on them will work.
you will need to get into the service menu, using your remote press DISPLAY, 5, VOL+, POWER in quick sequence. once the screen comes up you should have green letters and numbers at the top of the screen. at this point, keys 1 and 4 change the item, keys 2 and 5 change the category, keys 3 and 6 change the value, mute enters write mode, enter executes it.
you will want a test pattern displayed that has a center point, enter the pje section of the menu and go to tphp, if you don't see a crosshair, press 6. you are going to want the convergence grid and the test pattern displayed simultaneously, so press 9 until both are on screen. it will be a crosshatch pattern overlaying your test image. use the joystick button (left or right) to roughly line the crosshatch up with your test image.
now go to tpvp and use the joystick (up and down) to finish lining things up. once you are happy with the changes, hit mute then enter to save it to memory.
this next part is from a tweaks file in the public domain that i have for this model and use any time i am working on one of these.
How to Enter the Convergence Mode
Once you're in the service menu, you need to access the convergence mode. Press the 2 or 5 key until you see PJE in white blocky letters (you should be able to get there quickly by pressing 5 once or twice). Now press 9 on the remote. You will see a bracket appear in the middle of the screen. Press 6 and cycle through the different types of patterns until you get a white grid on a black background.
Once in the convergence mode (activated by pressing 9 in the PJE section), the buttons on the remote work differently. Keys 1 and 4 move the cursor around on the grid (convergence points) in a spiraling fashion. The joystick on the remote will adjust the position of the current color at that grid point. Key 3 cycles between red, green, and blue adjustments.
You may also depress the joystick, which will allow you to move the bracket freely around the grid. Press it again and you are back to being able to adjust the position of the current color at that grid point. Handy if you are just touching up an area and don't want to spiral through all the points.
How to Converge the CRTs
It's much easier to converge the set if you can see what you're converging. Green should be the color to converge to. The geometry (straightness of the grid) of the green CRT should be good enough - If you notice that some lines are definitely out of whack, you should straighten them.
We need to disable the red and blue CRTs. Press 2 until you get to the 2150P-2 category. Cycle through the items until you get to RGBS. Change the value to 2 (Green CRT Only).
Move back to the PJE category by pressing 5. You should be back at the grid with a green bracket - If you don't see one, press 3 until you do (the bracket may have been set on red or blue, which have been turned off). Navigate around the grid, correcting any obvious errors. Once you're satisfied, turn the red CRT back on (RGBS value of 6, Red and Green CRTs on), and return to the grid. Press 3 until the crosshair is red. Now, align the red to the green, getting as close as you can. By the way, not all grid points are selectable. Keep in mind that the edges of the screen will tend to be more out of focus, and harder to get "tight". Get it as close as you can. You also may notice that some points affect the position of other, nearby points. You'll get the feel for it after a short period of time. Now, do the same for blue, making sure to turn off red (RGBS value of 3, Blue and Green CRTs on). When you're all done, turn all the CRT's back on (RGBS value of 7, All CRTs on), and look to see the results. Touch up where it is needed (if needed at all).
I found the 100 IRE Crosshatch image really showed areas that still needed convergence. I would cycle within the PJE category (pressing 6) between the convergence grid (to fix errors) and the 100 IRE Crosshatch image (to view areas with convergence problems).
Save your convergence to memory by pressing MUTE followed by ENTER.
Remember, you need to do this for each mode you use - This doesn't mean for each input. It applies to 4:3 mode, 16:9 mode, and 1080i 16:9 mode (even though 1080i is a 16:9 mode, it requires its own convergence due to the higher scan-rate). Each mode is separate, and is saved separate, however, each one does tend to affect the other slightly.
Try not to use the Flash Focus. I know it's very easy to use, and they put it right there on the front of the set, so it basically begs to get pressed. But realize that pressing Flash Focus will rely on the sensors to converge your set - It will pretty much re-do all your hard work. It may get close, but it will never be as good as a service mode convergence.
Now that your convergence is done, you should re-register your new convergence to Flash Focus (FF). Ryan says below don't use Flash Focus, and I agree. However, if you do or someone else does, it shouldn't require nearly as much touching up if the new convergence is re-registered to Flash Focus. This is simple to do. While in the PJE category, press the Flash Focus button to initiate a re-registration process to the system. If the operation fails (I've never had this happen), press 0, followed by ENTER to restore the convergence settings you last saved. You'll need to investigate why it did not work. In the PJE category, change to item ERR and it should read a value other than 000 if your attempt at re-registering FF didn't work. If our attempt at re-registering did work, it should read a value of 000. Typically, reasons why re-registering FF won't work are due to overscan being reduced too much but there are other reasons too. Regardless, while you are investigating just don't press FF and you'll be fine.
I have read numerous forums regarding re-registering flash focus. Most say only re-register flash focus in Full. This is what I did. I only watch TV in Full mode anyway, so it worked well. I have read many people having troubles with other modes if they re-register flash focus in Wide Zoom mode so I can only say, read forums and ask questions if you do use your set in other modes before you re-register your flash focus in another mode besides Full.
hope this helps you,
Posted on Nov 15, 2007
no i would not even try it. you first of all would have to get at the tube and then you have to replace all the stuff on the tube then align the tube and then convergence, 800 bucks for three tubs isn't a bad price, however another couple hundred will buy you a new one...
just for giggles how about just replacing the blue, how much?
Posted on Dec 04, 2007
Common problem known as convergence. The most common reason is the failure of convergence ics. these ics fail all the time because there big and get fairly hot. there is a possiblity that it can be reconverged if the convergence cuircit is not damaged
Posted on Jan 08, 2008
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