My hammer drill won't hammer. larger corded model about 6years old. Used heavy about 3x per year.

Sounds to me your armature needs replacing. Basically brushes either work or don't work. some times you may get heavy sparking but that is the spring not pushing the brush on to the commutator. Loss of power and smoking usually armature if you use the drill in this state you may burn out the field coils as well.

I had the same problem. You need to manipulate either the speed or the torgue. In some cases both. Sometimes the drill/hammer feature gets stuck in between the two an this is the only way to fix it unless taking it apart but I wouldn't do that yourself. Best to take it back to the dealer or service shop

Without knowing which model you have: Most Bosch hammer drills use a plastic connecting rod to attach the piston to the rotating spindle. These are a common failure item and fairly easy to replace.

Yup, that is what happens. You can lessen that by really cranking it down, but it is an issue with most hand tightened chucks, and does not indicate a mechanical failure. I sometimes miss my old, heavy Milwaukee wrist-breaker with the keyed chuck. If it is just too much to live with, you could get a drill with the click in hex chuck or put a Jacobs keyed chuck on your hammer drill.
Anyway, I hear where you are coming from and share your frustration.
Regards, Farmerbear

You may have inadvertently hit the hammer/drill switch and it is floating the middle between functions. This selector switch has a symbol showing a drill bit on one side and a symbol of the hammer on the other. Engage the switch bacK into the drill position

Are the batteries fresh? How about the switch? Is it in the right position? I can't believe the motor has died. Even a dead battery will spin it a little. Check that out and let me know what you find.

Even though it is only 6 months old, the battery could be faulty here as it seems it is not holding any charge.

Depending on the type of hammer drill you have, the noise should only be heard when you are applying pressure to the material you are drilling. Some drills have 2 bump plates that cause the hammer action. This is what causes the noise. It kind of sounds like the gears are stripped but the chuck still goes just fine. You do not need to grease this, it will make this noise regardless. However you may want to take a look at the gears and make sure they are ok. You may want to add grease if the old grease is broken down or there is not enough in the gear housing. Larger hammer drills have a piston and actual hammer. Such as the Bosch Bulldog series. If it is this type and there is noise when you are in drill mode there may be more serious problems.

I willgladly email you schematics however TE52's are very old and parts are no longer available for this model
[email protected]
www.wysehire.gi

Two drive systems are available on both the hammer drill and the rotary hammer models: 1. SDS (or Slotted Drive System) bits for hammer drills/rotary hammers allow the bit to slide in the chuck and enhance the hammering action of the tool. For most applications, these bits provide plenty of torque. 2. SDS Max bits are similar to SDS bits, but have larger shanks and come in larger sizes than SDS bits. These powerful bits are useful in industrial applications.