My Amp has no power, no power led, i have tested the power to the amp reading 12.3 volts not sure if this is terminal????

there is no amperage reading as it is a variable depending on the current being used bu the systems
however voltage on the other hand is adjustable and readable
for a fully charged battery the reading should be 12 volts ( actually 13.2 v) and with the engine running at 2.000rpms the voltage should be 14.5 -14.8 volts
hard starting ( slow cranking speed) can be from a bad battery ( have a load test done at a battery shop) as it will read 12 volts but that drops to below 9 volts when a load is applied such as a starter motor operation
as a result the amps available will also drop and the starter has difficulty turning the engine
dirty battery posts and terminals (should be shiny clean ) or loose terminals will also create too high a resistance for the starter to work
you should take the vehicle to an accredited auto electrical shop where they can:- load test the battery, charge voltage and regulator operation
they can also attach an amp meter clamp around the positive cable to the battery to read the current draw when cranking the engine to use as an indication of possible starter faults
that reading for the starter operation can be as high as 450 amps for a few seconds but if it goes over 500 amps ,then that may indicate a problem starter especially if the battery has a low cc reading
( battery capacity is read as cc amp hour and for a small car would be 250-350 cc ah and for a larger vehicle can be 400-650 cc ah)

Take a multimeter or 12 volt test light and probe terminals on Therm & ECO for 12 VDC power while running. When it shuts down and wateris not hot, test for voltage again at those terminals, If you have 12 volts to side of therm that goes to ECO beside it, then therm is ok, but then check opposite side of ECO as well. If power on one side of ECO, but not the other, the ECO is faulty. Simply walk across with probe testing for voltage when you find no power at one terminal but not the other, it's faulty, replace it.

The protect mode setup provided to protect the speakers against burning due to the amp output short circuit. protecter activated means one or more channels of the O/Pamp is short circuited(defective) in your amplifire . First of all Remove the Power cable from the Amplifier and make sure no power connected to the Amp.
1.First step identify the faulty O/P Amp Channel---------
Inside the Amp you will see Five O/P Amp Sections (all are looking similar this is the common idea to locate the O/P Amps) there will be ten power transistors fitted on heatsink (2 transitors for each channel).some cases damaged transister are visible physicaly then easily you can identify the faulty channel(maybe cracked or blowned). There is no visible signs then you must do some tests with multimeter.You will find Five relays on the pcb( mostly square or rectangular ice cube relays) each relay have coil and N/O contacts built in and the terminals soldered to the pcb first you should identify the contact terminals (mostly it will be marked at the top side of the relay) otherwise a simple idea is , look on the pcb solder side trace the printed copper track going from the terminals of the relays you will see one is going to the speaker out socket this terminal called Sp O/P, other one going to the Amp O/P Transisters legs (some cases it pass through a coil of few turns) this terminal called Hot O/P . Do the same follow up and find the both terminals for the all the 5 channels.
Next step make sure you or not touching any live power (220v or 110v A.C) tracks or wires inside the Amplifire and you should keep this in your mind althrough the following tests
Take your multimeter select the D.C Voltage Range connect the Negative probe(Black) to the Metal Body of the Amp and put the positive probe (Red) apart safely. plug back the power cable to the Amp and power it from your wall socket then switch on the Amp. Turn the volume control knob to zero and select the input selector switch to Linein or Aux and remove the RCA Cable connected to that input socket. Now carefully touch the Hot O/P terminal of the relays with the positive probe and note down the voltage readings on a paer (Do this for all 5 relays one by one, values result may be + volt or -- volt or zero volt). After see the reading values we can find the faulty Amp section
1. The channels showing zero voltage are in good condition.
2. The channels showing + volt or -- volt ( may vary from 1 volt to 30 volt ) are faulty damaged Amp sections.
Now we located the faulty Amps then how to fix the faulty ones.
before going to do the next step switch off the Amp and remove the power cable from the wall socket. Check all active components one by one (transistors,diodes,zener diodes) and resisters capacitors in the faulty Amp section replace the faulty components by the same value new ones. carefully test the components twise. if you miss a small defect component or replace it in wrong way this single mistake will blow up your Amp again. After replaced the defective components do the relays Hot O/P terminals volt reading test process again. if all the readings are zero volt you have successfully repaired your amp still the reading showing some voltage means you must do the components checkup process again. If you do it slowly with full concentration surly you will fix your problem and your Amp will work back to enjoy the music .GOOD LUCK.
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Hi, first check the 20 amp fuse D. If good, use a 12 volt test light to check for power on the positive coil terminal (green wire/orange stripe, key on). If no power, the problem is with the ASD relay ot ignition switch. If power, the problem is the timing signal from the PCM or the coil itself.
No coil power:
pull out the auto-shutdown relay and probe the socket with a 12 volt test light:
hook the test light clip to ground and probe the socket terminals. There should be one hot terminal (from fuse D) with the key off and 2 hot terminals with the key on (turn-on signal from ignition switch).
Move the test light clip to battery positive and probe the socket again.
With the key on, there should be one terminal that lights the light brightly (PCM turn-on signal) and one that light it dimly (load terminal)

If there is power to the coil, test the coil primary and secondary winding impedances using an ohmmeter. If the coil is good, test the crankshaft position sensor. Set the ohmmeter to the 1K-10K scale. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (see the illustration). The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). If a low resistance is read, replace the camshaft position sensor.
Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

START BY CLEANING THE BATTERY TERMINALS. NEG CABLE OFF FIRST THEN POSITIVE. CLEAN CABLES & TERMINALS PUT CABLES BACK ON & TIGHTEN POS. FIRST, NEGATIVE ON LAST & TIGHTEN. IF THAT DOESN'T DO IT. LOCATE STARTER RELAY ON FENDERWELL. TURN KEY TO START. MEASURE VOLTAGE AT STARTER RELAY. IT SHOULD READ NEAR 12 VOLTS. IF NOT CHECK NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH. THE STARTER MAY BE STUCK OR WORN AS A LAST RESORT HOLD IGNITION SWITCH IN START POSITION, AT THE SAME TIME TAP ON METAL PART OF STARTER WITH MEDIUM SIZE HAMMER. IF STARTER GOES AFTER HAMMER TEST, REPAIR OR REPLACE STARTER.

Hello hexi_86, The amp is going into protection mode. If it goes into protection immediately upon power up, either the amp itself is defective or it is getting too high or too low of a voltage or current, or the outputs are shorted. 1) Make sure that the battery voltage, as measured at the amplifier?s +12 volt and ground terminals, is 11 volts or more (your alternator voltage is typically about 13.8 volts). So if you have 11 or less at the amp terminals, your wiring is too small or defective. 2) Check all +12 volt and ground connections. 3) The use of loudspeaker impedances below the recommended minimums will cause the amp to draw excessive current. Check by removing the speaker wires one at a time to locate a shorted wire or defective speaker. 4) Check all speaker connections. 5) Remove RCA inputs and see if the amp powers up properly. A shorted or grounded RCA cable can cause the amp to go into protection. If all these check out, the amp itself is probably shorted internally, most likely the output MOSFET's. In this case it needs professional repair or replacement. Hope this helps.

bad system cofiguration too much load on rea amp

The RCA "plugs" should be in an OUTPUT of the radio (sometimes they are INPUTS, like for an MP3 player..). Go to Sears or somewhere similar and buy an inexpensive Multimeter. Set it to DC volts and place the black lead on the GND termunal of the amp. With the red lead on the BAT terminal you should read roughly 12 volts always. With the car running and radio on, place the red on the REM terminal and again you should see 12 volts. If not it's the wiring. If the voltage is 12 on both then the amp is likely damaged.

Set the meter to AC volts and measure the AC voltage on the RCA cables where they plug into the amplifier. The black meter leat will go on the shield ground of the RCA cable. The red lead on the center conductor. You may have to turn the volume up to get a reading on the meter. At high volume, you should read at least one volt but the actual voltage will vary due to the audio signal. If you get no voltage on the RCAs, measure the AC voltage on the input to the LOC. Let me know what you find.

Check the fuse on the amplifier; if it's good, then you need a multimeter or voltmeter for further testing. With the meter's black probe on your amp's ground terminal and the radio turned on, both the power and the remote terminals should test at about 12 volts. If neither terminal shows voltage, you may have a problem with your ground connection; if both do, there's a problem with the amp.