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A sound card like an MBox or something like that will do it. Or a small desk with a USB out or if your computer has 3.5 in then any small mixer will work with some adapters.
Unfortunately, most condenser microphones (like the Solaris) are fairly fragile. The fluctuations and noise you're hearing is most likely from damage to the sensitive capsule inside the mesh screen. If that is the case you will want to get a return authorization number from M-Audio and send it back to them. You can find all the info and forms here:
http://www.m-audio.com/index.php?do=company.warranty
There is a slim chance your issue could just be a loose wire or resistor inside the casing, but very unlikely. It's not really a mic that is considered "user serviceable," but if it's definitely out of warranty you could try a local electronics shop.
I know it's probably not the answer you want to hear but it sounds like you need the capsule replaced from the factory. With any condenser mic always remember to use a shockmount, sturdy mic stand, and keep loose mic cables out of the way.
Good Luck,
Dan
If you do not have experience in repairing these mics, you should probably have a pro audio technician do the work. The problem is an open circuit in microphone's internal wiring; either the mic cartridge is dead, or one or more of the fine wires connecting it to the microphone output connector are disconnected. Sometimes the fault is caused by a bad solder connection, or a faulty switch. As I mentioned, unless you have experience with these items, you can permanently damage a potentially salvageable mic. A goos tech should be able to identify the problem in a few minutes, and if the mic is repairable, it should be a cheap fix. Worst case scenario, a dead cartridge replacement may cost half the price of a new mic. But then, it's essentially a new mic.
Fortunately, it means that the mechanicals of the door opening device are working right, if you can open from the inside. The rigid wire that connects the outside handle to the door opening mechanism became loose, or a plastic connector broke. Disassemble the door panel, reach the handle from the inside, and see if there is a thin rod dangling somewhere, and if not broken, just put it back in place.
Well, it looks like an SKM 100/g2 casing so if that is true, then unscrew the bottom part till you have access to the batteries and there are three star screws you'll need to take out right between the battery compartment and the bottom with the LCD screen. The bottom cover slides down and off. If you need the cartridge out then you unscrew the top of the mic where the actual pickup is and pull the core out through the top. That should be close, but might vary a little bit.
If your amp has 2 inputs, you will need to rewire your standard mike cable as follows. Go to http://s3.amazonaws.com/samsontech/related_docs/Q7_ownman_v1s.pdf for the wiring diagram. If you aren't comfortable with doing this go to a music store and explain your problem and ask if they have a low to high impedance adapter with an XLR on one end and a 1/4" plug on the other. Hope this helps.
I think that it wouldn't be a good idea to use en electric arc welder as the current generated by the welding poles could damage small integrated components. May be you sould try drilling them out instead.
Cheers
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