Your GE owners manual DOUBLESS has routine
cleaning and vacuuming instruction... Look
them up or go to manualslib & input GSH25jtaww
There are a couple of reasons your model will quit
cooling properly... the EXPLODED parts view
your refrigerator shows you have the round style
condenser hot compressed REFRIGERANT is
immediately routed... (and to perform its "named"
" and cool the hot
(it must be vacuumed and clean so the Condenser
can flow air EASILY THROUGH IT (externally).
>> EVERYTHING about refrigeration is AIR-FLOW
Look in the back of your FREEZER SECTION to see
if there is a MASS of ICE/FROST build up...
You might be looking at a DEFROST system failure
If letting your refrigerator DEFROST (OPEN door)...
naturally for three days restores cooling... it is
indeed a DEFROST ISSUE (no HOT
air ,,, ever).
Anything from a chip of ice or a pizza box
BLOCKING proper closure can cause EXCESSIVE
build-up... It can overwhelm your DEFROST
Again... air flow around the EVAPORATOR is also
CRITICAL to the cooling & freezing (internally).
If this simple MANUAL defrost restores cooling
you might be good to check door alignment and
seals for good contact...
If the MACHINE has EXCESSIVE Frost again
You are likely needing one of three basic
parts of YOUR defrost system:
- Heater element (unlikely)
- Defrost Thermostat (limits temperatures)
and finally... EASIEST to change (rear of frig)
- Power Control Board (most costly)
PC board (with instructional videos
at appliancepartspros (about $197)
Then check prices for wr55x10942p PC Board
(such as $137 on eBay (where I buy most my packs))...
NEW OEM GE Refrigerator Main Control Board Assembly Part WR55X10942P eBay
Hope this helps
Carnac the Magnificent