I need a wiring diagram for a double switch - Pass & Seymour / Legrand 1595-2SWT Combination Two Single Pole Switches & G

The following applies to the Pass and Seymour Legrand 1595-2SWT combination two switches with GFCI receptacle device ONLY.

Sorry for the long post, but the manufacturer's wiring diagram for that device is very difficult to follow and I want to make sure that you understand what's what. A basic description of how the device works may help.

At the top of the switch is where one connects the incoming ( HOT circuit from the circuit breaker or source) (LINE) wires. The black is connected to the HOT terminal and the white is connected to the WHITE terminal. That powers up the GFCI receptacle.

On the bottom of the switch there are two (LOAD) terminals (HOT and WHITE). This is where one connects _any_and _all_ loads which are to be GFCI protected, including any downstream receptacle outlets that one may want to GFCI protect.

The thing to understand about GFCI's is that BOTH the hot and the "neutral" white wires for the load(s) _must_ be connected to the LOAD connection on the GFCI in order for it to function correctly. Think two wires IN from the (LINE), two wires out to the (LOAD).

Also, at the bottom of the switch should be 3 wires which are permanently attached to the device, black, red, and yellow. These wires are _not_ connected internally to anything related to the GFCI. The black wire is common and the red and yellow wires are the switch legs (pick one). In other words, individually, these wires function just like a regular switch. If one supplies 120 volts to the black (common) wire, when one switch is turned ON one or the other red or yellow wires (pick one, let's say the red wire) will be energized. When the other switch is turned ON the yellow wire will be energized. Understand that if the black (common) wire is not supplied with 120 volts you will _never_ power the red and/or yellow switch leg wires.

For equipment grounding, of course, the bare (or green) equipment grounding wires are all twisted together with 2 pigtails using a red or gray wire nut; one pigtail goes to the green screw on the switch and the other pigtail goes to the green screw on a metal box (if you have a metal box). There are other ways to do this, but that's the general idea.

OK, after all that, we're ready to wire the 1595-2SWT. Understand that there are many scenarios for wiring that device. I will describe the most common one.

The following assumes that you have only ONE circuit supplying 120 volts to the box. It also assumes that you have separate cables going to each switched load and that these loads are _NOT_ connected to any power source other than the one supplied by the switch itself. It's OK to have a 3-wire cable with ground (black, red, white, and bare) going to the loads. Additionally at this time we will also assume that there are no downstream receptacle(s).

After making all the equipment grounding connections;

LINE connections:
Connect the white wire from the incoming (LINE)120 volt cable from the breaker or source to the the white (LINE) terminal at the top of the switch. Connect the black wire from the incoming (LINE) (HOT) 120 volt cable to the HOT terminal at the top of the switch. You should now see that the wiring for GFCI receptacle outlet itself is accomplished.

LOAD connections:
The two white neutral wires in the box that are in the two outgoing cables that go to the loads are twisted together with a pigtail that is connected to the (LOAD) WHITE terminal at the bottom of the device. OPTIONALLY, if you have a 3-wire cable with ground (black, red, white, and bare), just connect the white wire to the (LOAD) White terminal at the bottom of the switch.

Here's where it gets tricky. Connect the black (common) wire that is permanently attached to the device to the (LOAD) HOT terminal at the bottom of the switch.

Do you see now that any loads connected to either the red or yellow wires will be switched _and_ GFCI protected? If not, please STOP what you are doing and post back here, or called a qualified electrician.

You may then connect the red wire to one of the switch legs and the yellow wire to the other switch leg.

Do you now also see that you can easily add a downstream receptacle to the deal by simply bringing a cable into the box from that downstream receptacle and connect it to the load side of the GFCI?

I hope this helps. BE SAFE and don't forget to turn OFF the circuit and test it to make sure it is OFF.