I connected the hot wire of my stereo and ran it to the amp power and same thing as the ground and get NO power

If it's only 4 wires, Red & black are typically power. red +12volts & black is ground. Gray would be one channel say right side and green would be left (example) you would ground the negative speaker lead on both sides. That is probably an old unit and make sure your car is negative ground. Some Ford & Nissan are positive grounded for some circuits which you may need to reverse the power connections. Make sure there is an in line fuse on the power wire just in case.

Locate an area for the amp to be mounted.
Amps get hot so, there needs to be plenty
of air space around the amp.
1. Mount the amp
2.run the main power wire, with an in-line fuse,
to the "+" positive side of the battery.
3. Ground the amp to the metal part of the chassis
4. Run the remote wire(usually a blue wire) to the stereo
so the amp powers up with the stereo
5. Run the stereos, speaker wires , from the stereo to the input side of amp
6. The output side of the amp to the speakers that are to be driven
if everything works then you are finished! Congrats!

Make sure you have a good ground, and also check the fuse.

USE PROPER GAGE WIRE CHECK ALL FUSES TO THE BATTERY,THE FUSE ON THE AMP,MAKE SURE YOUR CONNECTED TO ELECTRICALANNTENA POWER WIRE ON STEREO (ITS USUALLY BLUE WIRE OR OARNGE WIRE ON BACK OF STEREO)BE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD CLEAN METAL TO METAL GROUND WIRE CONNECTED TO BODY CHASSIS///SOME NEW STEREOS HAVE DIFFERENT WIRES ON THEM FOR CONNECTING AN AMPLIFER BE SURE TO CONNECT TO THAT WIRE THE REMOTE AMP PWR WIRE

The process is pretty much straight forward for any amp.
This is what you will need to get the job done:
15 ft- 4 gauge power wire (RED) with in-line fuse 3 ft - 4 Guage Ground wire (Brown) 15 ft - 12-16 Gauge Remote wire (Blue) 15 ft - RCA Wires Here are the steps:

• BATT - (Battery +12v) - This will be a 4 guage red wire that you will run directly from your car battery to this Terminal. Be sure to buy a wire a with an inline fuse. This is the main power supply to your amp. Be careful 12 volts doesn't sound like much till you see it in action. I would do this wire last, last thing you want is a hot wire accidentally touching some bare metal.
• GND - (Ground Wire) - This is the terminal you will use to ground the AMP. Run a 4 guage wire from this terminal and fasten it to some bare metal in your trunk. Not more than three feet.
• RCOM /Remote - There will be a small gauge wire from the back of your stereo that will be the remote wire it will be blue, most stereos have this wire labeled. Its purpose is to send a signal to the amp to turn on when the radio is powered on.
• RCA Wires - The location for these is not pictured above, on the back of your stereo there will be amp outputs. Your stereo will send all your low frequencies (Bass) to your amp using these wires. On the amp you will see where these wires will go. They are essential to have a system.

The best way to go about this is hook up the power, ground, and remote and test the Amp to see if it powers up. I have seen so many of my friends skip this step and they paid for it later. I hope this helps if you need any more help let me know.

Yes, some of their radios do have problems with the rca outs, the same thing has happened to me.

If I am not mistaken one power input goes directly to the pos + side of your battery (Use minimum 10 gauge stranded copper wire for this) and the other goes to the stereos (usually blue wire and can be regular 16/18 gauge wire) that is either used for (an amp or power antenna) In your case, an amp. So when you turn on/off your stereo your amp will also turn on/off . For the 2 ground wires just make sure you run at least one of them (preferebly with 10 gauge stranded copper wire directly to the neg - side of the battery and the other one can be ran to chassis ground and may be 16/18 gauge wire. Good Luck.

there are 2 hot wires and 1 ground. one the batt. and the other to the fuse box make sure they are both hooked up

I'd say go back to the guy who installed and get him to do it right. He's either left some wires exposed so they are intermittently touching, or has an open connection to one of the speakers. The amp will shut down to protect itself. He may also not have wired the speakers correctly. Some systems don't work unless both hot and ground wires run directly to each speaker. Some installers run only a hot line and use the car body for ground. At higher powers this can cause amp shutdown or keep it from working at all. In any case the installation wasn't done correctly.

Two things, a ground loop isolator in-line with the RCA's between the head unit and the first amp.....also a noise reducing capacitor ( $5 or$6 at an auto parts store) on the alternator 12v post will reduce or remove the hum.

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