Tri-mode amplifier hook-up

Sub outs needs an active speaker.

An active speaker have a built in amplifier and preamplifier.

For a passive speaker it needs an amplifier.

it is not reccomended to daisy chain passive subs with main speakers, because there is no crossover unit involved. you want a sub to have a crossover frequency around 100hz, so that only frequencies lower than this go through the subs, and not in the main speakers.

you could get away with 1 sub plugged into the mono output on the front, subs dont have to be stereo. you would need a self popwered sub, or an additional amplifier+crossover for passive subs. your best bet would to be to get a powered sub and hook it up to the front panel mono out. powered subs usually already have the crossover built--in.

I'm guessing the 200w are the Speakers maximum input, right?
Is the sub passive or active(=integrated Amp)?

If it's a passive sub:
If it's a 2-Channel Amplifier, you're talking about, you won't be able to connect all 3 - unless you can live with one speaker being significantly louder than the other or your amplifier going up in smoke...

As to the power required, if it's 250W PER CHANNEL the amp will blow your speakers, if it's 250W combined you may not be able to drive them to their absolute limit but they will be loud enough (they probably reach their db-limit with less than 200w but if they reach it with 200, you'll only get ~6db less than that with 125w per channel)

The Watt-numbers on (passive) speakers only tell you how much they can take before they are damaged, the relevant numbers for your problem are the efficiency (the unit is db/W or db/2,83V) and the maximum db-level (most floorstands can produce between 100 and 110 db at one meter distance)

If your speaker produces i.e. 87db/W at 1 meter distance (which is the standard measuring distance), it will produce ~97db at 10W, ~107 at 100W, etc. - unless it reaches it's limit before that. Most speakers can take a lot more power, than they need to reach their limit but they won't get any louder if you keep turning up the volume beyond that (they'll probably produce more distortions though, so don't)


As to the sub:
if it's passive, you'll need another amp (there are special amp-modules for subs, but any amp with enough power will do)

if it's active, you can connect it to the sub-out of your preamp (I'm guessing the PA Amp you mention is a Main Amp, not an integrated one) or your integrated amp via cinch (a tape-out works too)

OR you can connect it to the speaker outputs and than connect the speakers to the sub - in that case the sub is still NOT driven by your main amp but you can use it's crossover to separate low frequencies (--> SUB only) form higher frequencies (--> SPEAKERS only).

Most active subs can be connected both ways, if yours can't your stuck with one.

Rarely there is a third way, which only works if your sub supports it and if you either have seperate Pre- and Main-Amp or if your integrated amp has a Pre-Out and a Main-In (in that case in can be split into preamp and main amp)

IF you want to use your subs Crossover (which is good idea, provided it has one), you'll have to connect it between Amp and Speakers (works with allmost all active subs) or between preamp and main amp (works only with a few)



I hope this is helpful

Jan (Hamburg, Federal Republic of Krautistan)

1000% yes

Line outs Left and Right from mixer to power amp Left and Right inputs,
Power amp outs to Subs(if they have passive crossovers built in check specs on subs).
From Subs then to Main spkrs. Make sure power amp is set in stereo mode using this way.

Alternative: You will need at least a 2-way stereo crossover unit inline after mixer and before power amps if the subs don't have a built in passive crossover. Most of them do have passive crossovers in the subs these days. Then separate amps or one channel would drive the subs and the other the main speakers. True stereo would require at least a 2 way crossover and two stereo power amps if hooking them up this way.

There is another option as is common with many sub setups. Send the signal to the mains using L/R outputs from mixer and a separate Mono output to the subs only. Putting only bass/kick and low frequency outputs in this send would help too.

You need to have the amp bench tested at a car audio shop. Sounds like a dead short in the amp. Try turning the crossover on the sub "off" and connect any other speaker to it. if you have the same outcome, your amp needs serviced. Post a comment with your results and if I can think of anything else you could try beyond that I will. Hope this helps

Unfortunately, the rca outputs are to control an amplifier or crossover. They do make an ipod adapter for that radio, which allows you to control the ipod through the radio. Best Buy or any Alpine dealer should carry something for around $25.

http://mobile.bostonacoustics.com/Manuals/GT40Man.pdf
try this site to see if it's for your model, but if not it should still give you the basics for installation. Now for the crossovers, if they are passive they will go between your head unit and amps or speakers. if you can tell me the make and model of the crossovers, i can tell you exactly how to hook them up. Let me know if this helps :)

do you have a copy of the install manual? if not i have the url for you. you didn't say how were going to use the 250sx, but i assume you're planning on using it as a sub driver. an active crossover would be best in this application. orion has them & there others available as well. try to avoid passive crossovers because they absorb some the output power. there is an equalization switch that you use to further balance the system. the bridged mono mode produces about 400W which is pretty decent.

you didn't mention the power rating or impedence of the speakers. those specs determine where we go from here. checkout the manual, get those speaker specs & get back to me.

http://www.orioncaraudio.com/Support/Manuals/Amplifiers/SX%20Series/Orion%202250SX%20Installation%20Manual(G2.2).pdf

peace-out

You didn't say if it was active or passive, but here is both:

Passive crossovers are easy to install. By definition, the only type of connections they require are to your speaker line. They typically get installed between the end of the speaker wire and the speaker. Connection should be fairly simple, just like hooking up the speaker itself.

Now F-Mod crossovers modify the audio signal before it is amplified. They accept the patch cord from your receiver on one end, and then plug directly into the preamp inputs on your amplifier. They are also easy to install, and don't require additional wiring.

 An active crossover requires a little more work. You have to connect 12-volt power, ground, and a turn-on lead. The active crossover gets installed between your receiver and your amplifier. A lot of active crossovers have both speaker-level and preamp inputs, so they can usually work with either type of connection. The outputs will be preamp connections to your amplifier. Hope that helps.