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Re: its still bubbling when i raise the baskets
That is common if there is a lot of moisture, frost, or ice on the food being fried. Water can also collect at the very bottom of the fryer or in the drain pipe where it can be under 212F. If this is disturbed, the water can suddenly boil up. The oil itself will generally not boil unless heated quite a bit above normal operating temperatures. It will smoke heavily before it boils.
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ead the needle raise the presser ft and stomp the power foot down, now check the bubble when the machine is running full tilt. when the machine is running slow you will not see the oil flow. also ck the screen on the oil uptake under machine for dirt.
oil bubbles ? oil splashes under valve covers across the valve train opening the valve cap may get oil splash-- but oil bubbles oil may foam a bit from being old or if coolant got in it and wouldnt bubble out of cap but bubbles --- and oil splash is normal when opening oil cap with vehicle running
Your fryer should have a fill line in the pot that you would use as a guide and not fill beyond that line....It should be at the back wall of the inside pot of the fryer....It's going to be alot lower than you would think, as the oil will bubble up and rise when you drop a basket of frozen product in the hot oil, but you don't want it to come over the top, so use the line inside the pot as your guideline. Also, you can look at the container your oil comes in too. When American Range says a 45 lb fryer, what they mean is it will cook approx 45 lbs of product, that's not 45 lbs of oil.... but it does end up being close anyway. I'd buy 2-3 of the commercial containers of oil, like 20# or so, and use what you need, save the rest.... Susan REO
You either need to top up the oil, or change the oil. Both of these are easy to do. You'll need some high-grade jack oil, an Allen wrench, a rag or two, and a funnel.
1.) Relieve the pressure and lower the jack arm all the way down. 2.) Remove the tool tray from between the two rear wheels. 3.) Wipe the oil fill plug clean. (You don't want any gunk or debris falling inside.) 4.) Remove the plug with the Allen wrench.
Look inside. If the oil level is at or below the inner cylinder wall, you'll need to add oil. Don't go more than 3/16"-1/4" above the inner cylinder wall.
With the pressure still off, gently raise & lower the arm two or three times. Check and adjust your oil level again. Then screw the plug back in & tighten it with your Allen wrench.
Everything OK? Great. If not, repeat 1 through 4, then lay the jack on its side & drain ALL the oil out (into a container). When it's empty, set it upright & fill it. Again, raise & lower the arm several times.
Replace the plug, tighten it, then test. Raise the jack all the way up, then lower it all the way down, without any load on it. Repeat this two more times. (This helps to dissipate the air bubbles in the oil.) It should now be ready to use.
You need to use your flow gauge to check for proper flow. If the flow is too high, it will definitely cause the pool cleaner to not move properly. There are a few more things that you will want to check. Make sure that the diaphragm does not have damage or wear and tear. If it does, replace it. Backwash your filter and empty the pump basket. Obstructions or debris in them can cause lack of movement. Check for air in system. Raise individual sections of hose about the water and look for cracks or leaks. If the water level in the pump basket drops or you see excessive air bubbles in the pump basket or coming from the return lines, there is air in the system. Check hose connections, tighten all fittings at pump, and check gasket in pump basket for wear.
I believe if you raise the hood and look behind the headlight, you will see a connector which you can twist a quarter turn and remove the connector and bulb. Then you unplug the bulb, and get a replacement. DO NOT TOUCH the glass of the replacement bulb as the oil from your hand will cause the bulb to bubble and break (when it heats up). I hope this helps you.
If you notice bubbles in the water returning into the pool from the eyeball/discharge, or water in the strainer basket is visibly swirling (bubbles visible) odds are you need you replace the o-ring on the lid of the strainer basket in the front of the pump. This basket may also be clogged with debris, which also effect pressure. Could also be a cracked or warped strainer lid. Should be easy to see when you remove to check o-ring. Once you remove the strainer o-ring make sure you lube it with a good silcone based lube.
Hey Joe, Let’s check to see if the wash basket will rotate CCW in Spin Only Cycle with no clothes in the wash basket 1.Open the lid and rotate the wash basket by hand Counter Clockwise, CCW.The wash basket should rotate freely with no restriction.The wash basket will not rotate Clockwise, CW by hand. 2.Raise the top of the machine.Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base.Raise the top of the machine to observe the wash basket and tumbler action described in step 3. (See page 33 of the Service Manual for putty knife insertion point). 3.With the top raised start a Spin Only cycle with no clothes in the wash basket, observe the wash basket it should begin to rotate CCW does it?.Watch the tumblers, they should not rotate in spin cycle (maybe ½ turn at the start of spin cycle and that’s all).If the tumblers rotate while the wash basket is rotating you have a clutch malfunction.If the basket does spin CCW and the tumblers are rotating then you have a broken clutch spring.Let do those checks and observations and see what the next troubleshooting steps will be.Rich
you could have a transmission porblem are you might have something in the washer basket cause the noise check basket maker sure there notting like a nail are some thing in hole of the basket an due see any oil leaking out tranmission are call a appliance service