Blower motor quit

In your instruction manual you should find a parts list, purchase a new blower wheel and install it. If it is an older unit it may be best to just replace it.

Error code 67 is an airflow problem. Either clogged filter or bad blower motor. Unplug unit remove bucket and feel for filter in front behind cover it drops down. Clean filter with water and reinsert. Plug unit in turn to "on", fan should begin to run, after 3-5 minutes compressor should start. If fan does not start it is bad and should be replaced.

Is the fan running and stopping before the unit completely quits?
If the fan quits the compressor won't run very long.
I would start with the fan motor or capacitor.
Shut the power off to the unit, spin the blower wheel to see if it spins freely. If it doesn't spin freely, (there appears to be a little drag when you spin it),the bearings are bad, if it does spin freely, then try moving the motor shaft from side to side if there’s any play in the shaft side to side then the bearings are worn and motor needs replaced. Then, check the capacitor, if it’s bulging even slightly, the capacitor is bad and needs replaced. Most of the time people replace the capacitor if motor seems ok. If capacitor is ok, turn power on to see if the motor is getting the proper voltage, if it is and not trying to run, then the windings are probably open, the motor's bad and needs replaced.
r.

If the blower motor is siezed up, then you need to replace the motor.
You can have new bearings put in it, but by the time you get thru it will cost you about the same as a new motor and you won't have any warranty on the old motor, you will have at least a one year warranty on the new one.

Shut the power off to the unit, spin the fan blade to see if it spins freely. If it doesn't spin freely, (there appears to be a little drag when you spin it),the bearings are bad, if it does spin freely, then try moving the motor shaft from side to side if there’s any play in the shaft side to side then the bearings are worn and motor needs replaced. Then, check the capacitor, if it’s bulging even slightly, the capacitor is bad and needs replaced. Most of the time people replace the capacitor if motor seems ok. If capacitor is ok, turn power on to see if the motor is getting the proper voltage, if it is and not trying to run, then the windings are probably open, the motor's bad and needs replaced.

Shut the power off to the unit, spin the fan blade to see if it spins freely. If it doesn't spin freely, (there appears to be a little drag when you spin it),the bearings are bad, if it does spin freely, then try moving the motor shaft from side to side if there’s any play in the shaft side to side then the bearings are worn and motor needs replaced. Then, check the capacitor, if it’s bulging even slightly, the capacitor is bad and needs replaced. Most of the time people replace the capacitor if motor seems ok. If capacitor is ok, turn power on to see if the motor is getting the proper voltage, if it is and not trying to run, then the windings are probably open, the motor's bad and needs replaced.

I recently installed a horizontal gas furnace. All the electrical and gas supply was done correctly for sure, but upon the trial run, some smoke was coming out the supply lines into the house. I used some flex duct tape to seal all ductwork for air leaks. I also used some inside the first box coming off the heat exchangers to seal the inside of the box for leaks. Could the tape be burning because its to close to the heat exchangers and smoking or is it because its because its brand new and the heat exchanges have to burn a while? Please help

problem fixed with the fan motor not running.

heres how i did it for anyone who experiences the same problem

1.) open back of unit(6 screws and pop tabs)

2.) with back cover open youll have access to compressor and fan-locate the blower assembly and remove the nut on it i used a 3/8 wrench from dollartree and rotated the blower fan while turning-its plastic be careful and remember righty tighty lefty loosey)

3.) with fan assembly off youll see the motor with 2 phillips head screws-taking these screws out with a power screwdriver allows the bearing assembly closest to the fan assembly,shaft,armeture and motor assembly to come out leaving rear bearing assembly attached to chassis

4.) once the motor assembly is completely out gently rest it against the fan hole and cut the silver tape being careful to ONLY cut the silver tape and the first white tape strip.

5.) youll see 3 wires and some insulator sleeves covering them leave everything alone except the ORANGE wire this wire attaches to the thermal fuse than to the windings
CAREFULLY heat up your soldering iron and remove the orange to thermal fuse connection than carefully thermal fuse to windings its a bit of a pain but can be done with patience

6.) remove original thermal fuse noting EXACTLY where original is placed on windings-it will have a small tape strip on it. replace it with one of EXACT OR NEAR THERMAL RATINGS a good choice is radioshack 270-1322. this thermal fuse is ratyed 10 amps max. but remember thermal fuses go by degree of heat and not by amp rating unless the amperage is in excess to melt the thermal material inside-my original fuse was 2 amps and 130 degrees celcius new fuse was 129degrees but plus minus 2 degrees so its a good choice and costs under 2 dollars

7.) place a heatsink clip or needlenose pliers between thermal fuse and solder connections BEFORE YOU SOLDER IT IN PLACE this prevents your 700 degree f iron from melting the fuse(remember its thermal not amperage were talking about here)
solder orange to thermal fuse with plastic extension than flat end to winding wire exactly opposite of how removed

8.) tape fuse in ORIGINAL LOCATION AS OLD FUSE i used scotch tape,place the thermal white protector piece on orange to fuse wire and push everything back down in original places-there should be no contact with any other wires etc. it will cause a fire

9.) once fuse is in place push tape you cut earlier back on and put 2 or 3 small scotch tape pieces of good length to secure the innards, lube the rear bearing of motor using vasoline- a few dollups will do it do the same for front slide motor winding assembly holding it in place than replace armeture with front bearing attaches as they came out secure the 2 screws back in place, put fan blade assembly back on(its keyed) secure nut and reassemble back

if you did everything correctly it will work like new just remember this time CLEAN YOUR FILTER SCREEN REGULARILY lol its critical for proper fan cooling

that should do it:)

You have a bad fan motor. Put your hand against the grill to see if there any air movement. You need to buy a new fan motor assembly, it is attached by two long
bolts, easy to swap, except the wiring may not be easy. May have to cut the 3 wires and resolder. Get to the motor by removing the back panel and then the fan. Removing the fan may not be easy, they put some gunk on the spidle thread.

The cheapest price I have seen for the motor is $27-$28, shipping about $8 and tax
about $1.5.