Mic repair mic has separated from from clip. i need to resolder the connection, however i can't separate the cable from the clib to facilitate this....how do i do that?

Who replaced the cable ? sound's like it was not adjusted correctly or not at all .
Range Selector Lever Cable Adjustment
Caution: The automatic transaxle range selector cable is made out of two cable sections. After initial connection never separate the two metal couplings from one another. Integrity of the connection of the two metal couplings will be lost if separation of the two metal couplings occurs. When servicing the transaxle remove the cable at the automatic transaxle range selector lever and at the automatic transaxle range selector cable bracket. If either section of the cable needs to be replaced, replace both of the cable sections. Loss of connection integrity of the two metal couplings can cause loss of transaxle shift control which could result in personal injury.
Notice: Adjust the automatic transaxle range selector cable while the transaxle and while the gear selector are in the Neutral position only. Failure to do so may cause mis-adjustment.
Set the parking brake.
Block the wheels.
Disconnect the shift cables at both ends with the system in Neutral.
Notice: Do NOT attempt to separate the metal couplings. Replace both cable pieces if the metal couplings are separated. Both of the cable section will be damaged if the two metal couplings are disconnected.
Push up to the adjustment position to release the adjuster until the cable housings separate.
Depress the adjuster clip once. This mobilizes the adjuster housing toward the transaxle end fitting.
Line up the end fittings so they slide together until you feel the parts cam together and lock.
Depress the adjuster clip completely. This locks the cable into its adjusted service position.
Pull the conduit in the opposite direction to assure full system adjustment of the shift cable.
Important: The horseshoe clip with the tab is flush when fully engaged.
Ensure the conduit is fully engaged.
The horseshoe clip with the tab is not flush when not fully engaged.
Install the shift cable retainer and the wiring harness clip or wiring harness strap.

you just need a cable.

Remove sticky tape securing the keyboard cable to back of the keyboard.Part of the keyboard cable is glued to the keyboard. Carefully separate the cable from the keyboard.Start peeling off the aluminum protective film Remove the protective film. After the protective film is removed it's really hard to attach it back to the keyboard because it's deformed.Most laptop keyboards have some kind of plastic separators.
These separators secured on the back of the keyboard.
Plastic pins are melted on the back of the keyboard and retain separators in place.Push all plastic pins though wholes on the keyboard.Start removing the separator.The plastic separator has been removed.
Now you'll have to remove all key caps.
Before you start removing key caps, make a picture or xerocopy of the keyboard so you know the order in which keys are attached to the keyboard.In order to remove the key cap carefully lift it up with your fingers.Remove the key cap so the hinge underneath stays connected to the keyboard.
Some big keys have a different design.
In addition to the hinge, some big keys (Back space or Space bar for example) might have an additional support bracket.Remove the key cap with the support bracket. As you see, the key hinge stays connected to the keyboard.Some laptop keyboards might have blank covers on the left and right sides from the up arrow key.Lift up and remove the blank cover.All keyboard key caps and plastic separators have been removed.Now you can start removing key hinges - key lifting mechanisms.Carefully separate the key hinge from the keyboard.
Each key hinge has two parts - external and internal pieces.
When you remove the hinge, try to keep these parts connected to each other the same way they are connected on the keyboard.If the external and internal pieces got separated, you can assemble them together.If you following this guide to repair the keyboard, I would recommend to keep all hinges in the right order.
The keyboard has two sheets laying one on the top of another.
Remove the sheet with silicone (or rubber) nipples.Remove the second sheet with traces.Both sheets have been separated from the keyboard base.The sheet with traces has two layers and all traces are running between these layers.In order to access and repair traces you'll have to separate to layers from each other.The keyboard has been disassemble.
As you see it's not easy to disassemble a laptop keyboard and even harder to put it back together.
Is it worth repairing? Probably not. These days you can find a new laptop keyboard very cheap.

Remove sticky tape securing the keyboard cable to back of the keyboard.Part of the keyboard cable is glued to the keyboard. Carefully separate the cable from the keyboard.Start peeling off the aluminum protective film Remove the protective film. After the protective film is removed it's really hard to attach it back to the keyboard because it's deformed.Most laptop keyboards have some kind of plastic separators.
These separators secured on the back of the keyboard.
Plastic pins are melted on the back of the keyboard and retain separators in place.Push all plastic pins though wholes on the keyboard.Start removing the separator.The plastic separator has been removed.
Now you'll have to remove all key caps.
Before you start removing key caps, make a picture or xerocopy of the keyboard so you know the order in which keys are attached to the keyboard.In order to remove the key cap carefully lift it up with your fingers.Remove the key cap so the hinge underneath stays connected to the keyboard.
Some big keys have a different design.
In addition to the hinge, some big keys (Back space or Space bar for example) might have an additional support bracket.Remove the key cap with the support bracket. As you see, the key hinge stays connected to the keyboard.Some laptop keyboards might have blank covers on the left and right sides from the up arrow key.Lift up and remove the blank cover.All keyboard key caps and plastic separators have been removed.Now you can start removing key hinges - key lifting mechanisms.Carefully separate the key hinge from the keyboard.
Each key hinge has two parts - external and internal pieces.
When you remove the hinge, try to keep these parts connected to each other the same way they are connected on the keyboard.If the external and internal pieces got separated, you can assemble them together.If you following this guide to repair the keyboard, I would recommend to keep all hinges in the right order.
The keyboard has two sheets laying one on the top of another.
Remove the sheet with silicone (or rubber) nipples.Remove the second sheet with traces.Both sheets have been separated from the keyboard base.The sheet with traces has two layers and all traces are running between these layers.In order to access and repair traces you'll have to separate to layers from each other.The keyboard has been disassemble.
As you see it's not easy to disassemble a laptop keyboard and even harder to put it back together.
Is it worth repairing? Probably not. These days you can find a new laptop keyboard very cheap.

use the web dude
http://www.rodemic.com/support.php#q23

Q: Can I buy a power supply for my mic?
A: NTK, K2 & Classic II mics are sold as complete units, power supplies and mics are not sold separately but as warranty items only.

For direct information and technical support questions contact:

In Australia:
[email protected]
or call (02) 9648 5855

In United States and Puerto Rico:
[email protected]
or call (805) 566 7777
between 12:30PM and 4:00PM PST

Hope this helps
Thanks for using FixYa

you have fried the tranmit.

Are you using the original cable for the mike? In order to use phantom power the XLR connectors have to be wired in balanced configuration. Pins 1,2 and 3 must be wired separately. If you use a cable with 1and 3 connected you could damage the phantom power supply and in some cases the microphone.

Hi there. Use the "pan" pots to assign the guitar to left channel and all other pans to right channel. Also, turn all effects off or down all the way. (Effects return all the way down.
Thanks
Paul

Computer monitors get separate red, green and blue video signals from the computer, and if you lose the blue the result is a yellow picture. This can be caused by video card failure in the computer (very unlikely), a bad cable (fairly common), or trouble in the monitor (which is most likely what you have).

The usual problem with monitors is bad solder connections to the red, green and blue output devices. These are usually three separate transistors, but sometimes an integrated circuit that puts all three in one package is used. These outputs get pretty hot, and the heat can cause the connections on the circuit board to crack. Resoldering them usually fixes the trouble. (Sometimes the part actually fails, but bad connections are more common.)

The parts are normally in one of two places. Most commonly they are on the small circuit board you'll find right at the neck of the picture tube. Some monitors have them on the main circuit board. They may be mounted to metal heat sinks to help keep them cool. If you can identify them and resolder the connections, you'll probably get your normal picture back.