Does not drain

The contact on the end off the cycle in the switch is bad you try to clean it or replace the main switch,all the best.

First--Water enters the dishwasher through the water inlet valve which is the plastic electric valve that the house plumbing attaches to. On GE's its usually under the left front corner once you remove the small access panel. Power is applied by the the timer during the fill cycle. Second-- there is no other filter down in the area you are trying to clean. To remove that rubber boot/sump area you would need to un-install the dishwasher and remove the motor pump assembly from underneath. Here are a couple of things to check for poor cleaning. 1---internal water level---should be about 1/2 inch at door front edge. If not, that inlet valve may be partially blocked and need replaced. 2---water temp needs to be at least 120 minimum. If not hot enough it will not dissolve soap. 3--- look closely at all the little holes in the spray arms. Pay close attention to the end holes that are used to spray out water like a jet engine and spin the arms. Any blocked holes need to be cleaned with something like a toothpick. 4--- check dishwasher at cycle end. If tub has excessive amount of water left inside you may have a blocked drain hose from dishwasher to house drain system. Remove and clean. A small amount of water in sump area is normal but none u near door.

No drainage, or poor drainage issues are usually caused by either a failed drain pump, or the sump area under the sprayer is clogged with debris. The sump is the area at the bottom of the tub where water collects on the initial fill. A wash pump cycles the water throughout the wash cycle, followed by the same water being drained from the unit by means of a drain pump. This area is usually covered by a coarse screen and fine screen to prevent debris from accumulating. But, over time, some debris may still get past the screens and collect in the sump. This usually results in poor cleaning results due to restricted water flow through the spray arms, and poor draining.

I would recommend you remove the lower spray arm and screens and check the sump area for obstructions. If the unit still has standing water inside, use a wet/dry shop vac to drain. Remove the drain line from your sink and pull a vacuum on the end of the dishwasher drain hose. If the water drains freely from the unit, then you probably have a bad drain pump. If the water will not drain, you have a clog somewhere. Check your drain lines and pump for obstructions.

If you have any questions, please post back with a MODEL NUMBER. I hope this helps you.

I had a similar problem. The pannel under the door can be removed by 3 screws. After that if you look there should be a water pump there (it will have a drain hose from the washing machine (black) and a drain hose that leads to the back of the machine). There is a white srew cap that is a filter. Take the cap off and then remove the filter and check for clogs. Replace the filter and turn machine on drain/spin cycle. Put your hand on the pump to ensure that the pump is working. If so you should be all set.

Check drain hose first.

If you do not find any blockage, then you will need to access the pump, remove pump hose and look for blockage in there.

If there is no blockage at all, then either the water level switch, a faulty pump (not switching from recirculate to drain) , a wiring problem, or a faulty timer board can be cause the machine not draining.

I rethought your problem and will provide a generic answer that is common to your brand of DW....

GE dishwashers will have a sump entrance screen ( #4 ) that should be removed and checked for any gookus, see 1 or 2 screws on the cover top, which is behind the lower spray arm. Almost all ( some newer GE dishwashers have a separate drain pump and motor - but for our purpose, we will talk about the most common GE dishwashers ) GE dishwashers have a drain solenoid ( #1 ) that can fail and stop the draining. If the solenoid cannot pull in the silver plunger, the drain port will not open to allow the motor and pump assembly to drain the water out. The solenoid can be ohmed with an ohm meter for continuity, or tested to see if it is receiving 110-120 volts AC. Many GE dishwashers have a self clean filter ( #3 ) inside at the back. The draining water must pass through a plunger in the self clean filter body. This can get clogged up, or the plunger may twist and distort and not allow the draining water to get past. The filter can be removed from the inside and the plunger will twist out of the self cleaning body for testing/checking. Next obstacle for the draining water in the back flush valve ( #2 ). This valve can twist or distort and block the water flow as well. The drain port will need to be accessed to check this flapper valve, the drain port will untwist from the self clean filter body. All hoses in-between the items mentioned above and the drain hose itself all the way to the house plumbing should be checked for restrictions.

Some extra filter, draining tips and pictures....

During the wash and rinse modes of the cycle, soiled water falls down the back of the tub and into the filter area. The water comes through the filter and back into the tub. During the wash and rinse periods all ( we hope! ) the water will pass through the filter. The soil will settle into the collection chamber and is held there. When the dishwasher goes into the pump out mode the water in the sump is pumped through the collection chamber. This closes the piston valve to the inside of the tub. The pump flushes the collection chamber of all the food soil and pumps it down the drain. A check valve is located in the drain line port. This valve allows the water to flow in the drain direction only and prevents the water from coming back into the tub. The drain line check valve must close in the back flow direction or the piston valve in the collection chamber may not reopen into the tub after the pump out is complete. Water should "fall" through the filter and go back into the tub....the heavier food particles go down into the chamber and are collected.

Here is a link for you to check out...I have all this info in my data base but since it is in PDF format it does not translate well to this format...

http://www.applianceaid.com/gedishdrain.html

I hope this helps...good luck and good day...Thanks for rating my effort......thanks....The Fang.

GE dishwashers will have a sump entrance screen ( #4 ) that should be removed and checked for any gookus, see 1 or 2 screws on the cover top, which is behind the lower spray arm. Almost all ( some newer GE dishwashers have a separate drain pump and motor - but for our purpose, we will talk about the most common GE dishwashers ) GE dishwashers have a drain solenoid ( #1 ) that can fail and stop the draining. If the solenoid cannot pull in the silver plunger, the drain port will not open to allow the motor and pump assembly to drain the water out. The solenoid can be ohmed with an ohm meter for continuity, or tested to see if it is receiving 110-120 volts AC. Many GE dishwashers have a self clean filter ( #3 ) inside at the back. The draining water must pass through a plunger in the self clean filter body. This can get clogged up, or the plunger may twist and distort and not allow the draining water to get past. The filter can be removed from the inside and the plunger will twist out of the self cleaning body for testing/checking. Next obstacle for the draining water in the back flush valve ( #2 ). This valve can twist or distort and block the water flow as well. The drain port will need to be accessed to check this flapper valve, the drain port will untwist from the self clean filter body. All hoses in-between the items mentioned above and the drain hose itself all the way to the house plumbing should be checked for restrictions.

Some extra filter, draining tips and pictures....

During the wash and rinse modes of the cycle, soiled water falls down the back of the tub and into the filter area. The water comes through the filter and back into the tub. During the wash and rinse periods all ( we hope! ) the water will pass through the filter. The soil will settle into the collection chamber and is held there. When the dishwasher goes into the pump out mode the water in the sump is pumped through the collection chamber. This closes the piston valve to the inside of the tub. The pump flushes the collection chamber of all the food soil and pumps it down the drain. A check valve is located in the drain line port. This valve allows the water to flow in the drain direction only and prevents the water from coming back into the tub. The drain line check valve must close in the back flow direction or the piston valve in the collection chamber may not reopen into the tub after the pump out is complete. Water should "fall" through the filter and go back into the tub....the heavier food particles go down into the chamber and are collected.

In order for you to see the diagrams..here is a great link...anyone can use....

http://www.applianceaid.com/gedishdrain.html..you may need to scroll down to get to where you need to be...but these issues are GE specific...and there are other related issues you can see here.
I have all this material in a vast data bank of my own but it is PDF format which does not translate well to these medium.

Good luck and good day...please rate my effort.....The Fang.

Hope this

GE dishwashers will have a sump entrance screen ( #4 ) that should be removed and checked for any gookus, see 1 or 2 screws on the cover top, which is behind the lower spray arm. Almost all ( some newer GE dishwashers have a separate drain pump and motor - but for our purpose, we will talk about the most common GE dishwashers ) GE dishwashers have a drain solenoid ( #1 ) that can fail and stop the draining. If the solenoid cannot pull in the silver plunger, the drain port will not open to allow the motor and pump assembly to drain the water out. The solenoid can be ohmed with an ohm meter for continuity, or tested to see if it is receiving 110-120 volts AC. Many GE dishwashers have a self clean filter ( #3 ) inside at the back. The draining water must pass through a plunger in the self clean filter body. This can get clogged up, or the plunger may twist and distort and not allow the draining water to get past. The filter can be removed from the inside and the plunger will twist out of the self cleaning body for testing/checking. Next obstacle for the draining water in the back flush valve ( #2 ). This valve can twist or distort and block the water flow as well. The drain port will need to be accessed to check this flapper valve, the drain port will untwist from the self clean filter body. All hoses in-between the items mentioned above and the drain hose itself all the way to the house plumbing should be checked for restrictions.

Some extra filter, draining tips and pictures....

During the wash and rinse modes of the cycle, soiled water falls down the back of the tub and into the filter area. The water comes through the filter and back into the tub. During the wash and rinse periods all ( we hope! ) the water will pass through the filter. The soil will settle into the collection chamber and is held there. When the dishwasher goes into the pump out mode the water in the sump is pumped through the collection chamber. This closes the piston valve to the inside of the tub. The pump flushes the collection chamber of all the food soil and pumps it down the drain. A check valve is located in the drain line port. This valve allows the water to flow in the drain direction only and prevents the water from coming back into the tub. The drain line check valve must close in the back flow direction or the piston valve in the collection chamber may not reopen into the tub after the pump out is complete. Water should "fall" through the filter and go back into the tub....the heavier food particles go down into the chamber and are collected.

Here is a link for you to check out...I have all this info in my data base but since it is in PDF format it does not translate well to this format...

http://www.applianceaid.com/gedishdrain.html

I hope this helps...good luck and ggod day...please rate my effort......thanks....The Fang.

Some water always remains in the bottom of the DW (al least with most DW) but here is some help....

GE dishwashers will have a sump entrance screen ( #4 ) that should be removed and checked for any gookus, see 1 or 2 screws on the cover top, which is behind the lower spray arm. Almost all ( some newer GE dishwashers have a separate drain pump and motor - but for our purpose, we will talk about the most common GE dishwashers ) GE dishwashers have a drain solenoid ( #1 ) that can fail and stop the draining. If the solenoid cannot pull in the silver plunger, the drain port will not open to allow the motor and pump assembly to drain the water out. The solenoid can be ohmed with an ohm meter for continuity, or tested to see if it is receiving 110-120 volts AC. Many GE dishwashers have a self clean filter ( #3 ) inside at the back. The draining water must pass through a plunger in the self clean filter body. This can get clogged up, or the plunger may twist and distort and not allow the draining water to get past. The filter can be removed from the inside and the plunger will twist out of the self cleaning body for testing/checking. Next obstacle for the draining water in the back flush valve ( #2 ). This valve can twist or distort and block the water flow as well. The drain port will need to be accessed to check this flapper valve, the drain port will untwist from the self clean filter body. All hoses in-between the items mentioned above and the drain hose itself all the way to the house plumbing should be checked for restrictions.

Some extra filter, draining tips and pictures....

During the wash and rinse modes of the cycle, soiled water falls down the back of the tub and into the filter area. The water comes through the filter and back into the tub. During the wash and rinse periods all ( we hope! ) the water will pass through the filter. The soil will settle into the collection chamber and is held there. When the dishwasher goes into the pump out mode the water in the sump is pumped through the collection chamber. This closes the piston valve to the inside of the tub. The pump flushes the collection chamber of all the food soil and pumps it down the drain. A check valve is located in the drain line port. This valve allows the water to flow in the drain direction only and prevents the water from coming back into the tub. The drain line check valve must close in the back flow direction or the piston valve in the collection chamber may not reopen into the tub after the pump out is complete. Water should "fall" through the filter and go back into the tub....the heavier food particles go down into the chamber and are collected.

Here is a link for you to check out...I have all this info in my data base but since it is in PDF format it does not translate well to this format...

http://www.applianceaid.com/gedishdrain.html

I hope this helps...good luck and ggod day...please rate my effort......thanks....The Fang.

GE dishwashers will have a sump entrance screen ( #4 ) that should be removed and checked for any gookus, see 1 or 2 screws on the cover top, which is behind the lower spray arm. Almost all ( some newer GE dishwashers have a separate drain pump and motor - but for our purpose, we will talk about the most common GE dishwashers ) GE dishwashers have a drain solenoid ( #1 ) that can fail and stop the draining. If the solenoid cannot pull in the silver plunger, the drain port will not open to allow the motor and pump assembly to drain the water out. The solenoid can be ohmed with an ohm meter for continuity, or tested to see if it is receiving 110-120 volts AC. Many GE dishwashers have a self clean filter ( #3 ) inside at the back. The draining water must pass through a plunger in the self clean filter body. This can get clogged up, or the plunger may twist and distort and not allow the draining water to get past. The filter can be removed from the inside and the plunger will twist out of the self cleaning body for testing/checking. Next obstacle for the draining water in the back flush valve ( #2 ). This valve can twist or distort and block the water flow as well. The drain port will need to be accessed to check this flapper valve, the drain port will untwist from the self clean filter body. All hoses in-between the items mentioned above and the drain hose itself all the way to the house plumbing should be checked for restrictions.

Some extra filter, draining tips and pictures....

During the wash and rinse modes of the cycle, soiled water falls down the back of the tub and into the filter area. The water comes through the filter and back into the tub. During the wash and rinse periods all ( we hope! ) the water will pass through the filter. The soil will settle into the collection chamber and is held there. When the dishwasher goes into the pump out mode the water in the sump is pumped through the collection chamber. This closes the piston valve to the inside of the tub. The pump flushes the collection chamber of all the food soil and pumps it down the drain. A check valve is located in the drain line port. This valve allows the water to flow in the drain direction only and prevents the water from coming back into the tub. The drain line check valve must close in the back flow direction or the piston valve in the collection chamber may not reopen into the tub after the pump out is complete. Water should "fall" through the filter and go back into the tub....the heavier food particles go down into the chamber and are collected.

Here is a link for you to check out...I have all this info in my data base but since it is in PDF format it does not translate well to this format...

http://www.applianceaid.com/gedishdrain.html

I hope this helps...good luck and ggod day...please rate my effort......thanks....The Fang.