Will not spin at all.

Is this a new fault or has it always done this? What's the water stream like while pumping out, but before the spin cycle? Noticed any changes? Can you tell if the pump is still working during the spin cycle (hard to tell by listening but try). It should still be pumping during the spin cycle. Sadly for you, reviews of this model are not too complimentary, and help requests cover a variety of faults. Looks like it may be a bit of a lemon.

If the pump is still running during spin, a possible (likely?) fault cause is a damaged impeller, which would make it pump adequately during the main drain cycle, but lose pumping ability rapidly as soon as there was not much more water to pump, and the backflow leakage rate equalled the rate of water collection at the pump inlet. As well, in that scenario, any water still in the drain line would flow back into the drum as soon as the cycle finished.

Noise coming from water pump when engine is running, very slow or virtually no circulation of coolant in the radiator. To hear if the water pump bearing is going out..Take a long screwdriver or tire iron and touch and hold against water pump while engine is running, put ear to other end..works like a stethoscope..just be careful you have it in a steady place on water pump so belt doesn't turn it into a projectile!
if you feel like its the water pump, take serpentine belt off and see if pulley on water pump has any play up or down or front to back, and spin with hand should spin freely...if has play or doesn't spin freely or you can hear, usually a kind of whining noise coming from water pump, it needs replacing. The water pump also has a small hole onthe bottom side, if the diaphragm in waterpump goes bad it will usually have a slow steady drip coming from the hole. Have you had the radiator pressure tested?

Look inside unit for tech sheet, technician manual to run diagnostics mode. See if you can find stored codes and it should also tell you how to erase stored error codes.

If this noise only occurs when the water is entering during the fill stage(the very first part after initiating the machine. And when the first spin cycle has completed and begins to refill for a second rinse. Then it would be worn out inlet valves or the electronics are playing up. To check which one it is put a multi meter across the terminals of the inlet valve and measure the resistance. A Value between 800 - 1200 ohms means the valve is working and the electronics become suspect. Another method for diagnosing this problem is detailed in this PDF http://moustachedor.free.fr/lg/LG-1259.pdf Go down to the QC test section and test Each system until you discover the noise. If the noise does not become evident please reply. I suggest always have an experienced professional do all work on and in appliances This is not a recommendation mearly an informative documentation

Replace bearings & seal.

Hello

bearings in the heater fan may get worn out or rust. If this happens, it may become very noisy, either grinding on the bearings, or scraping against the rust. If this happens you need to replace the fan motor. Sometimes, a fan blade may come loose, and you need to replace it.
Sometimes it's the motor that makes the noise you hear. The motor has bearings in it which may become worn or get rusty. When the bearings get worn, they allow the shaft to wobble which can get quite loud. If there is a spin seal leak, water may get inside the motor, washing the bearing grease away. If the spin seal is leaking, you'll notice water leaking from under the dishwasher. There is also a disc attached to the top of the motor called a slinger. It sometimes breaks off and spins around the motor's shaft while it turns, causing some noises. You will need to replace the motor if the bearings are bad. You also need to replace the motor if the slinger is broken as well.

Newer dishwashers may make a squealing or rattling noise on the first run. This is because it has not had any water in it yet, and the motor seals are dry. You may hear this in a unit that hasn't been run in a week or more as well. You should operate the dishwasher regularly to keep the sump water from getting smelly, and to keep the seals lubricated. You can add a quart of water to the sump before running it.

Rattling noises may be produced by dishes rattling inside the dishwasher due to the water pressure from the sprayer arms on the dishes. To determine if the rattling is a loading issue, run the unit empty. If the sound is persistent, it may be that there is debris in the pump.

dishwasher water-inlet valves are noted to make a hum that lasts about 60-90 seconds several times during a washing cycle. This hum is a different hum than the sound of the motor running.

A rhythmic knocking or thumping sound may be caused the sprayer arms hitting something as they go around and around. Rearrange the dishes and resume the wash.

A clunking or clanking may be heard when the detergent cup opens; while a clicking sound may be produced by the timer or electronic control panel.

A solenoid makes a snap sound when it opens. This happens about six times during each load.

Pipes rattling or banging may be caused by a water hammer effect. Water hammer sounds are caused by a valve closing in the system, and yet the water in the pipe is still flowing because of its kinetic energy. The sound is caused by the water slamming into the closed section of pipe. A plumber can install an anti-hammer device.

Small objects can sometimes get stuck in the pump. When this occurs, you'll need to open the pump and then remove the item that is making the noise or replace the pump. The dishwasher pump is usually mounted directly to the motor and runs off the motor as well. The pump is also attached to the bottom of your dishwasher.
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I have a quiet series 300 and it does that, too. I think it just balances the load before washing and is normal. I found this in the manual:
Normal Sounds
Your new washer may make sounds your old one didn

It's noisy If your dishwasher seems noisy, check these:

Water-inlet valve
Motor
Heater fan
Pump
Water-inlet valve An aging water-inlet valve can sometimes fail slowly, rather than all at once. It can shudder on and off rapidly, causing the incoming water lines to shake, rumble, and rattle--sometimes violently. If yours is doing this, replace the inlet valve. 

Motor If it's the motor that's noisy, either of these may be the "culprit:"

• As motor bearings wear out, they can become quite loud when the motor runs. They wear out quickly if they frequently get wet, because the water washes away the motor bearing grease. Bearings can get wet if the spin seal is defective. Then there will also be water leaking onto the floor beneath the dishwasher. Replace the seal if it leaks (read about the main tub seal in the "It leaks" section, later).



• If, from beneath the dishwasher, you can see a round, plastic disc that's mounted to the top of the motor (a "slinger"), it may have broken free of the motor shaft. If so, it could be rattling around the shaft while the motor is running. If that's the problem, you need to replace the motor.

Heater fan If the heater fan bearings are rusted or worn, they may squeal, or scrape loudly during the drying cycle. If this is the problem, replace the fan motor. Alternatively, the fan blade may be loose. If so, you need to replace it.

Pump Small fruit pits, toothpicks, and fragments of glass sometimes get stuck in the pump. When this happens, open the pump and remove the debris. The pump is usually mounted directly to the motor, then attached to the bottom of the dishwasher. 

To get to the pump, you usually need to remove the lower rack, the spray arms, and the spray arm support from the inside of your dishwasher. A dishwasher pump isn't obvious. Look for an impeller--a round, plastic fan blade-type device that spins around and pushes the water toward the drain. When you can see the drain impeller, you should be able to see the clogging debris.
thanks and accept the solution accordingly

Hii!! yo check your washer belt.if on the you have a tranny problem.good luck

is ther any broken wires between the board and the rotor sensor