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Hi During the recent bad weather, I like many other people slid on sheet ice and I damaged the A Bar on the front of my 4x4. The damage is not enough to consioder replacement as all that has happen is a 6" long strip of the plastic covered impact foam has come away.
The wquestion is, as I wish to repair this, what is the best adhesive to use that will bond foam to foam quickly, strongly and is weatherproof.
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If the mix of anitfreeze and water did not provide proper protection damage could be possible. The sound may be ice crystals and sludge. I know the temps have been in the teens and single digits. Who did the last coolant change and what was the mix. If it was 50/50 or 60/40 you should be safe.
Trim panels are usually retained by a combination of screws, often retaining grab handles and other furniture, and hidden clips.
Some screws are obvious and others are hidden by blanking plugs.
A few panels are completely retained by screws and some panels are completely retained by concealed clips. A few panels are retained at the lower end by screws and/or hidden clips and then when these are released the panel must be slid upwards to unhook at the top.
Removing a panel usually breaks a few clips and sometimes it doesn't matter how carefully or carelessly panels are removed a certain amount of damage and broken clips/studs is inevitable, especially in cold weather. Sometimes considerable force is needed especially if the panel hasn't been removed before.
There are a number of special tools for dealing with trim panels and studs but these are of limited use to unskilled or inexperienced hands and of limited use to even an experienced person encountering a new model for the first time. The tools are designed to reach far behind the panel and a vee-shaped groove can engage with the stud (if it can be found) and lever it from the metalwork. Such tools don't often prevent the stud breaking but does help protect the panel from damage.
When dealing with door and tailgate panels it is well to have a selection of studs and clips available and a variety of glues, plastic welding equipment to hand as well as being able to give completing the task satisfactorily sufficient time.
Depends on the component and level of protection that you purchased. Read /read your contract and see what components are covered and for how long. You never said what component is was.
Hi Henry, Without knowing the make and year of the vehicle I'm shooting in the dark, but maybe on target? On recent vehicles, even back as far as the mid nineties there are a number of electrical and electronic management connections to the gear box. it could be you're dealing with a bad connection or damaged circuit. Check the area where the recent work was carried out. Regards John
I'd say the linkage is a little bit off and the shifter is not quite putting the linkage in the park position. To confirm this you might try pushing and or pulling on the shifter a little bit as you trying to start the vehicle.
Check for defective spot welds around the plastic inserts on the left and right
sides of the trunk. If the spot welds burnt through the metal, there will be holes were water can get in. Use some JB Marine Weld to seal up any holes or cracks in the sheet metal. Also, check the rubber drain holes under those
inserts, that are in the sheet metal of the car, to make sure they are
not blocked with road dirt. Also, check the weather stripping on the
outside of the car, adjacent to the trunk. If the rubber and chrome
trim weather stripping is pulling out (on the exterior of the rear
quarter panel), then water will leak through the little plastic
attaching screws and into the trunk beneath the plastic containers on the left and
right front sides of the trunk.
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