One of the plastic prongs (for lack of a better word)on the chest clip snapped off. How do I go about ordering a new one?

There should be a few screws and mostly plastic snap clips. If it has come loose you have probably broken some on the snap clips and they are needing replaced. Most auto body supply stores will be able to provide the new clips. Just remove the panel, remove the bad clips, replace with new clips and reinstal the panel.

contact the seller and tell them the wrong size collar was received .

Dryer door tch kits are less than $10 and simple snap in. Yank the old one out and snap in the new

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

The top arm snaps into place. Simply unscrew the retaining clip from the ceiling of the washer. Inside of there, you will find a small white plastic clip. Make sure the two prongs are pointed down and poking out through the hole in the bottom of the larger grey clip that you just unscrewed. Then press the prongs on the white clip into the hole on the arm and snap it back together. Then you can screw the assembly back into the ceiling of the washer.

If this problem persists, you will likely need to replace the white plastic clip. (which is where I am at right now with my washer).

My procedure (after spending 2 hours finding nothing but dead ends and 20 minutes after I figured out the procedure...). Also, found that having a second person is key to making things go smoother!
1. Purchase a pair of quality struts with specifications for trunks with or without a spoiler on it. Trunks with a spoiler requires a heavier, beefier strut. Save yourself a headache and replace both struts while you are at it, no need to face this task 6 months later. Fluid leaking out of struts are a sure indication that you need new ones!
2. Remove and save the old strut to compare it to the new struts you purchased. There are two accesses you'll need to position yourself in: 1. from the trunk and 2. from the back seat into a tight wheel well cavity that you can hardly get your hand into.
3. From the back seat, pull down the backrest side cushion near the door on each side to access the cavity that has the rod end with the plastic clip inside it. The cushion pulls out when grabbing the top and pulling towards you. No need to manhandle this cushion and you only want to pull the top off and slant it sideways in order to get your hand inside this small cavity through the access hole.
4. Note that the plastic 'clip' end of the strut is attached to a permanent welded pin located inside the cavity. Using flat head screw driver, pry plastic clip off of welded pin inside the cavity.
5. On trunk side of the strut, use a small flathead screw driver and insert under retaining clip to release the old strut from the permanent bulbous pin welded to the body. Note: You can check out your new strut and you'll see how the clip needs to be 'pried' off slightly to open the aperture where the bulbous/rounded pin head goes into and it would snap on.
6. Now compare your old and new struts. Look closely at the two ends and compare the sizes. Particularly compare the 'plastic' "C" end clip at the end of the strut rod that has to 'snap' over the pin that is welded inside the cavity. Getting the plastic "C" end clip off is a ...'snap' but getting this back on and 'snap' in place is a potential project.
7. For me, after comparing the old and the new ends, I had to file down the new plastic "C" end clip so it would look almost identical in size to the original one I took off and would be able to 'snap' back on over the welded clip inside the cavity. The other side of the strut that is installed from the trunk was just fine so I didn't have to do anything there.
8. When trying to 'snap' the "C" end clip over the pin inside the cavity, I found that I couldn't get enough downward pressure on it to 'snap' it in place. So, I took someone's suggestion on the web to loop a 3/8" small rope over the end of the clip inside the cavity, draped the two ends of the rope outside the opening to the cavity and exerted 'downward' pressure on the rope pulling the clip against the pin which forced the "C" clip to 'snap' into place over the welded pin!! Slight filing (not too much) will get the end just right to snap over the pin and it's plastic which files off in seconds. Little at a time or else you find you just destroyed your strut! Note: prior to the rope trick, I tried every tool known to man to snap this clip in place inside the small cavity!!! For my big hands, there is just not enough room to get your hand in there to move around, never mind getting a tool in there as well! Once you look at this ridiculous setup, you'll know exactly what I mean!
9. Now the easy part. From the trunk, prepare the other end of the strut to install over the bulbous end of the permanent pin welded to the body by prying the retaining clip as previously mentioned. You'll see as you pry off the clip (but do NOT remove it completely) the opening on this end of the strut will permit it to slide easily over the pin. Best to have one person there to move the trunk up or down to align the pin to the end of the strut to line it up and slide it on.
10. Bingo - slide it on, make sure you press the retaining clip back in place so it grabs the bulbous end of the pin and you're done! Like I said I spent 2 hours fiddling about and 20 minutes installing both struts once I got the filing of the end and rope trick down!
Key to this project: compare the ends you are trying to snap and slide on (adjust/shave if necessary), get access from the back seat by pulling back the side backrest cushion to access the cavity and the old 'rope' trick to get downward pressure to 'snap' on the darn "C" clip inside the cavity!!
Good luck - you can do it with only a screwdriver and piece of rope!

This just happened to me. The spinner arm fell off. It left behind two pieces of plastic attached to the roof of the machine: a grey sunburst shape, and within that, a white circle with two prongs. It looks like the spinner arm should snap onto the white circle with prongs . . . but you can't just press it back on, because there is no resistance on the other side and the white circle just becomes displaced instead of snapping together.

But the good news is that the grey sunburst screws on and off! Unscrew it until it comes free from the roof of your machine. Now snap the white circle and the spinner arm together, with the grey sunburst between them. Give it a test spin to make sure it's all together and working, and then screw the whole assembly back onto the roof of your dishwasher.

Apologies for the lack of pictures . . . this must sound crazy to anyone who's not looking at what I'm looking at--but it worked!

This will help if you lay out the chest pieces and all the pieces you removed on the table first. If it helps, snap them together. Then, lay out the pieces with metal prongs that lock into the buckle that goes between your child's legs.

1st pull through the belt adjusting piece through the bottom cover ****.

2nd pull the square release buckle through the second ****, on top of the piece that tightens and releases. This is the piece that you push with your thumb to release the seatbelt.

3rd pull both side seatbelts through the respective side right and left and make sure they are flat.

4th slide on the two pieces with metal prongs on one left and one right seatbelt. Before you do this, ensure that you have put the correct piece on the correct side and that they will latch properly into the buckle. Snap them into the buckle to ensure you have it right.

5th attach the two respective chest clips on one right and one left seatbelt. Snap them together to ensure you have it right.

6th pull the top shoulder seatbelt straps through one of the top cover slits. If you have a newborn, then it will be the bottom **** at the top. If your child has grown, then it will be the top two slits. Ensure both seatbelts are pulled either through the same **** on either side.

7th after you have pulled the shoulder straps through the top slits on the cover, pull them through the slits in the plastic carseat frame. Pull them through until you see them at the rear.

8th attach on their respective sides the shoulder strap at the back of the plastic carseat. There is a big brass metal piece with "hooks" at the top. The shoulder strap has a seatbelt "loop" on one end that can be hooked on. Do this on each respective side and make sure it is secure.

Remove the filter and either clean it with water and let it dry completely before installing. Or buy a new filter. Place it so that it fits firmly down at the botom. the try to clip on the cover snapping the hard clip down first. then the opposite side. then snap on the others. it may have bent a little. If it fits loose. try bending it into shape .

Just solved it, after a bit of tinkering...

the prongs of the floating plastic frame need to sit inside the clips of the spacebar key, you can't just clip it back on with the prongs either up or down. It's fiddly, you need a paperclip or thin screwdriver to do it, but it's stopped the sticking problem.