Fault code says pressure switch lockout

They are listed inside the front panel of the main unit.
LED CODE
EACH OF THE FOLLOWING STATUS CODES IS A TWO DIGIT NUMBER WITH THE FIRST
DIGIT DETERMINED BY THE NUMBER OF SHORT FLASHES AND THE SECOND DIGIT BY
THE NUMBER OF LONG FLASHES.
STATUS

11 NO PREVIOUS CODE - Stored status code is erased automatically after 72
hours. On RED LED boards stored status codes can also be erased when power
(115 VAC or 24 VAC) to control is interrupted.
12 BLOWER ON AFTER POWER UP (115 VAC or 24 VAC) -Blower runs for 90
seconds, if unit is powered up during a call for heat (R-W closed) or R-W opens
during blower on-delay.
13 LIMIT CIRCUIT LOCKOUT - Lockout occurs if the limit or flame rollout switch is
open longer than 3 minutes.
- Control will auto reset after three hours. - Refer to #33.
14 IGNITION LOCKOUT - Control will auto-reset after three hours. Refer to #34.
21 GAS HEATING LOCKOUT - Control will NOT auto reset.
Check for: - Mis-wired gas valve -Defective control (valve relay)
22 ABNORMAL FLAME-PROVING SIGNAL - Flame is proved while gas valve is
de-energized. Inducer will run until fault is cleared. Check for:
- Leaky gas valve - Stuck-open gas valve
23 PRESSURE SWITCH DID NOT OPEN Check for:
- Obstructed pressure tubing. - Pressure switch stuck closed.
24 SECONDARY VOLTAGE FUSE IS OPEN Check for:
- Short circuit in secondary voltage (24VAC) wiring.
31 PRESSURE SWITCH DID NOT CLOSE OR REOPENED - If open longer than
five minutes, inducer shuts off for 15 minutes before retry. Check for:
- Excessive wind - Proper vent sizing - Defective inducer motor
- Low inducer voltage (115VAC) - Defective pressure switch
- Inadequate combustion air supply - Restricted vent
- Disconnected or obstructed pressure tubing
- Low inlet gas pressure (if LGPS used)
If it opens during blower on-delay period, blower will come on for the selected
blower off-delay.
33 LIMIT CIRCUIT FAULT - Indicates a limit, or flame rollout is open. Blower will
run for 4 minutes or until open switch remakes whichever is longer. If open
longer than 3 minutes, code changes to lockout #13. If open less than 3 minutes
status code #33 continues to flash until blower shuts off. Flame rollout switch
requires manual reset. Check for: - Restricted vent
- Proper vent sizing - Loose blower wheel - Excessive wind
- Dirty filter or restricted duct system.
- Defective blower motor or capacitor. - Defective switch or connections.
- Inadequate combustion air supply (Flame Roll-out Switch open).
34 IGNITION PROVING FAILURE - Control will try three more times before lockout
#14 occurs. If flame signal lost during blower on-delay period, blower will come
on for the selected blower off-delay. Check for: - Control ground continuity
- Flame sensor must not be grounded
- Oxide buildup on flame sensor (clean with fine steel wool).
- Proper flame sense microamps (.5 microamps D.C. min., 4.0 - 6.0 nominal).
- Gas valve defective or gas valve turned off - Manual valve shut-off
- Defective Hot Surface Ignitor
- Low inlet gas pressure
- Inadequate flame carryover or rough ignition
- Green/Yellow wire MUST be connected to furnace sheet metal
45 CONTROL CIRCUITRY LOCKOUT Auto-reset after one hour lockout due to;
- Gas valve relay stuck open - Flame sense circuit failure
- Software check error
Reset power to clear lockout. Replace control if status code repeats.
If status code recall is needed, briefly remove then reconnect one main limit wire to display
stored status code. On RED LED boards do not remove power or blower door before initiatingstatus code recall. After one status code recall is completed component test will occur.

here is a link copy and paste

https://www.fixya.com/support/t6287232-carrier_8000ts


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TRI-COLOR (DSI LED) DIAGNOSTIC TABLE
No. of Red BLINKS
1 Flame sensed when no flame should be present
Verify the gas valve is operating and shutting down properly. Flame in burner assemble should extinguish promptly at the end of the cycle. Check orifices and gas pressure.

2 BLINKS Pressure switch stuck closed/ inducer error
Pressure switch stuck closed. Check switch function, verify inducer is turning off.

3 BLINKS 1st-stage pressure switch stuck open/inducer error
Check pressure switch function and tubing. Verify inducer is turning on the pulling sufficient vacuum to engage switch.

4 BLINKS Open limit switch Verify continuity through rollout switch circuit.

5 BLINKS Open rollout/open fuse detect Verify continuity through rollout switch circuit, check fuse.

6 BLINKS 1st-stage pressure switch cycle lockout If the first stage pressure switch cycles 5 times (open, closed) during one call for heat from the thermostat the control will lockout.Check pressure switch for fluttering, inconsistent closure or poor vacuum pressure.
7 BLINKS External lockout (retries exceeded) Failure to sense flame is often caused by carbon deposits on the
flame sensor, a disconnected or shorted flame sensor lead or a
poorly grounded furnace. Carbon deposits can be cleaned with
emery cloth. Verify sensor is not contacting the burner and is locatedin a good position to sense flame. Check sensor lead for shortingand verify furnace is grounded properly.

8 BLINKS External lockout (ignition recycles
exceeded where flame is established and then lost)Check items for exceeded retries listed above and verify valve is not dropping out allowing flame to be established and then lost.

9 BLINKS Grounding or Reversed polarity Verify the control and furnace are properly grounded. Check and reverse polarity (primary) if incorrect.

10 BLINKS Module gas valve contacts energized
with no call for heat Verify valve is not receiving voltage from a short. If a valve wiring is correct and condition persists, replace module.
11 BLINKS Limit switch open - possible blower
failure overheating limit Possible blower failure, restricted air flow through appliance or duct work. Verify continuity through limit switch circuit and correct overheating cause.

12 BLINKS Module Ignitor contact failure Fault code indicates the module ignitor contacts are not functioning
properly. Replace module.Solid Module - internal fault condition Module contacts for gas valve not operating or processor fault.
Reset control. if condition persists replace module.
3 double 2nd-stage Pressure Switch Stuck Open/Inducer Error
Check pressure switch function and tubing. Verify inducer.

Ok so here is a sequence of the heater lighting and the solution for your problem...
1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution:You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks.Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. Please see "limits, rollout switches & furnace control boards" further down on this page. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning. Please see the pictures below to help you identify a flame sensor.
Thanks and I hope this helps. Feedback apprec.

check for power at gas valve.

Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. When a furnace has a bad ignitor what I see most of the time is the following sequence of operation:

1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution: You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. When a furnace has a bad ignitor what I see most of the time is the following sequence of operation:

1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution: You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. When a furnace has a bad ignitor what I see most of the time is the following sequence of operation:

1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution: You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. When a furnace has a bad ignitor what I see most of the time is the following sequence of operation:

1. Thermostat calls for heat.

2. Draft inducer motor starts.

3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes.

4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution: You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. Please see "limits, rollout switches & furnace control boards" further down on this page. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. When a furnace has a bad ignitor what I see most of the time is the following sequence of operation:

1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution: You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. Please see "limits, rollout switches & furnace control boards" further down on this page. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.