GE PTS22LHR, 2004 model, compressor and condenser fan are working, but evaporator fan is not. I downloaded the service manual (published in 2001) only to find out the main board in the refrigerator is nothing like the one in the maual, nor like these website's replacement part. There is no ICs or SMT parts but only relays, chokes and connectors on my current main board, but the connector designations and wire color code matched service manual, any one knows what is going on?
Both freezer and fresh food compartment are 10-20F higher than the set temperature.
Is the part in the following picture you refered? Each grid is 1" in the pic. I thought the same thing as you did at begining. But when I opened the back cover in the freezer, there is no frost build up. defrost is working. The problem is that the main board I have does not have parts (i.e. microprocessor, capacitors, diodes, etc.) needed to control this refrigerator. I even called GE to find out whether they change the design, they were clueless (Duh, the board has Sanyo name on it). The only assumption I have is that they moved secondary (low voltage DC components) control to the temp. control board which is located in the front between the freezer and the fresh food compartment. An updated service manual (post 2001) would be very helful. Is the part in the following picture you refered? Each grid is 1" in the pic. I thought the same thing as you did at begining. But when I opened the back cover in the freezer, there is no frost build up. defrost is working. The problem is that the main board I have does not have parts (i.e. microprocessor, capacitors, diodes, etc.) needed to control this refrigerator. I even called GE to find out whether they change the design, they were clueless (Duh, the board has Sanyo name on it). The only assumption I have is that they moved secondary (low voltage DC components) control to the temp. control board which is located in the front between the freezer and the fresh food compartment. An updated service manual (post 2001) would be very helful.
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Ha ha
Most G.E. the fan will not work if limit control is not working, staying in open position.This also means the defrost heater will not work. If you had an amp probe it would simplify your diagnoses. you could put it into defrost,and if the amps showed heater was not coming on it would prove my theory. The limit control is a small button like switch about 1 inch in diameter cliped to the cooling
coils in back of freezer. Hope this helps.
Fxit
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Condenser Coils are Dirty
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the condenser coils may be dirty. The condenser is like a radiator and must stay clean in order to dissipate the heat which was removed from the inside of the refrigerator. As the coils get dirtier the refrigerator becomes less efficient, which makes it work harder to cool down. If the coils are dirty enough, the unit will never be cold enough and will not be able to cool the inside of the refrigerator to the proper temperature.
Evaporator Fan Motor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the evaporator fan motor might have failed. Every refrigerator has a set of coils called an evaporator. The refrigerator may have one or more evaporator fan motor(s) depending on the model and evaporator locations. The evaporator fan motor circulates the cold air from the coils thru the compartment. If there is only one evaporator it is in the freezer side. If the fan is not working, no cold air will get to the refrigerator compartment. The freezer may still get cold.
Condenser Fan Motor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough there might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor might be defective. The condenser fan motor draws air over the condenser coils to cool them. The condenser fan motor is located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.
Start Relay
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the start relay may be defective. The start relay is a small device mounted to the side of the compressor. It provides power to the run winding along with the start winding for a split second at start-up to help get the compressor started. If the start relay is defective the compressor may run intermittently or not at all and the refrigerator will not get cold enough. The start relay should be replaced if defective.
Temperature Control Thermostat
If the refrigerator does not get cold enough the temperature control thermostat might be defective. The thermostat allows power to flow through to the compressor, evaporator fan and condenser fan. If the cooling system fans and compressor are running, but the refrigerator or freezer is not cooling correctly check for an airflow or defrost system problem.
Start Capacitor
If the refrigerator isn't cold enough the compressor might be having difficulty starting. The start capacitor serves as a battery to give the compressor a little boost during start-up. If the start capacitor is burned out the compressor might not be able to start and run as often as it should. Test the start capacitor first with a capacitance meter, they don't fail often. If it's defective, replace it.
Thermistor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the thermistor might be defective. The thermistor is a sensor which monitors the air temperature. It is connected to the control board. If the thermistor is defective the refrigerator does not cool or may cool continuously.
Temperature Control Board
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the temperature control board might be defective. The temperature control board provides the voltage to the fan motors and compressor. These boards are often misdiagnosed. Check all other components to be certain this is the cause of the problem.
Compressor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the compressor might be defective. The compressor is a motor which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. There are several other components which are more likely to be defective if the compressor doesn't work. If the compressor itself is defective a licensed professional will need to replace it.
Main Control Board
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check the defrost system, cooling fans, and cooling controls first.
Where is it frosting, condenser or evaporator? If you mean frosting on evaporator line to compressor, probably iced up evaporator. If you mean frosting after condenser by capillary, unit short of gas/ blocked.
The reason everything is hot is because you stopped the unit from "Breathing" through the condenser (not evaporator) by allowing dust to build up. This is how the system disperses heat absorbed in the freezer section (evaporator).
Check if evaporator fan is running. Is there any frost buildup on freezers evaporator cover? If so you have a defrost problem (bad heater, defrost thermostat, thermister, defrost timer or circuit board ). If no frost and the freezer is warm then you most likely have a sealed system problem(leak, restriction, bad compressor) which is costly to repair.
Dirty condenser, condenser fan or evaporator fan motor are not running, Ice build up on evaporator and restricted the air flow. If compressor, condenser fan and evaporator fan motor are running but not cooling, then either compressor or sealed system problem.
Most cases it is coming from evaporator fan or condenser fan motors. 80% is coming from evaporator fan or condenser fan motor, 5% from compressor and 5% from flow of refrigerant ( gurgling ), 10% from the rest.
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. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on
and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to
start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload
relay. Check to see if the
condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no
check fan.
Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should
be warm
How to check stuff> http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold
air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and
fridge. Make sure the damper is open.
Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the
back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL)
or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR
PROBLEM).
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload
relay. Check to see if the
condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no
check fan.
Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should
be warm
Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold
air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and
fridge. Make sure the damper is open.
Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the
back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL)
or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR
PROBLEM).
have you check the thermostat as follows ?
:
1. operation.
2. circuit from thermo switch (stat) to relay and the function of the relay, the stat should close and coild on relay should be powered, thus closing contacts to pull in evap fan.
assume you are carefull enough not to electrocute yourself in the process, short out relay contacts to see if fan runs. if it does and stat actually is okay. replace relay on board it may be faulty or may have anboard maufacturing fault such as dry solder joint etc.
alternatively if you have a good friend good al electrical work have him relace relay for you.
as an emergency fix , connect evap fan to supply, thus by passing control bard al togheter, ths should give you you 10 degress straight away and keep you rubnning till you solve board level problem.
Is the part in the following picture you refered? Each grid is 1" in the pic. I thought the same thing as you did at begining. But when I opened the back cover in the freezer, there is no frost build up. defrost is working. The problem is that the main board I have does not have parts (i.e. microprocessor, capacitors, diodes, etc.) needed to control this refrigerator. I even called GE to find out whether they change the design, they were clueless (Duh, the board has Sanyo name on it). The only assumption I have is that they moved secondary (low voltage DC components) control to the temp. control board which is located in the front between the freezer and the fresh food compartment. An updated service manual (post 2001) would be very helful.
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