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Sure, try using a small (desk) fan to move air around the apartment this will allow for more even heating.
hope that fixya up . give me a vote if'n I was of help.I love praise, it's the fuel that keeps me fix'n yer stuff.. Jay
On the remote there is a button called sleep. Every time you press it the time will increase in half an hour increments. Eg: Press it four times and the display will show 120, which means the TV will switch off after 120 minutes.
Gasoline I assume?? The timing is probably way off. Using the mark on the harmonic balancer and set to 0. Rotate the distributor so that the rotor is touching the #1 cylinder. Try to start vehicle, if starts, then use a timing light and set to spec by rotating distributor in very small increments. Tighten distributor. A service manual will help and they run ~$20 at any parts store.
The screws on the derailleur set the positional limits for the derailleur; if your description is accurate and it is always one position behind until the middle gears, I would guess it is not these screws causing the problem, but rather the cable tension is a little to low. There is a typically a knurled knob on the back of the derailleur that can adjust cable tension. Unscrewing it a little will tighten the cable. There may be other adjusters if you follow the cable up to the shifter. Try changing it in small increments (eg 1/8 to 1/4 turns) and go through shifts from high to low before determining if it is helping or not.
hi,
By trial and error, you need to press and hold one of the buttons until the face blinks. That means the interface is in "set" mode. Once you're in set mode, then there are two options: increment the element that's blinking (hours, minutes, etc), or move the focus to the next element. These two actions are probably handled by two different buttons. The button you initially held probably does the focus shifting while another button probably does the incrementing.
"Set" mode is like a tunnel. Once you're in, just keep moving focus from element to element until you run out of things to change, at which point you exit the tunnel and return to normal watch mode.
There are so many different places where an intermittant problem of this kind could occur, it will be nearly impossible for anyone to give you any clear guidance on this one.
The most common failure in modern sets is related to the power supply but that kind of problem is one that appears sometimes as a gradual decay of its time to power up or a decreasing length of operating time and finally a failure to turn on at all.
There is a section that is kept 'alive' by a small part of the power supply so the set can accept commands from your remote to power up the rest of the set and the receiver of the remote's IR output stays turned on as long as AC is connected.
This section could have a semiconductor that is intermittant so that it sends a command to turn the set on or off without you using the remote to send the command.
There are tens of thousands of individual active and passive components in our modern sets and only one single part needs to be randomly failing to cause your problem.
There is a slim chance that the remote is the culprit since they too are never completely 'off' and it could be sending commands on its own.
To eliminate this possibility, either take the battery out of the remote or put a pillow on top of it so the IR signal is absolutely disabled.
If the set still does what it pleases, then the remote is OK and the trouble is then definitely in the set itself.
The remote receiver electronics in the set could be part of the main board or a separate item on a small auxilliary board so whoever gets this to repair will need the whole set available.
get the 98 start up floppy and stick it in the a:/
Copy command.com, or anything else missing to your c:/ from the floppy. type help/? at the c:/ and you should find the proper format for the version of DOS you have.
i think you will find that you are in fact using the fastest speed processor for the socket 'A' type of motherboard as AMD has changed to socket 754 or 939 for dual core processors.
You can clock the speed a little in the bios, if you go to the peocessor section in the bios and look at the clock speed probably set at 133MHZ you can move it up 1 increment at a time, eg 134MHZ and keep trying until the pc wont boot up, at which point you will have to reset the cmos settings JBAT1 terminal and then set it again to the fastest you got it to before it wouldnt boot.
It could be one of three things:
1. Your remote is doing wonky things and sending commands to the TV on its own.
2. Something else in the room is sending commands to the TV.
3. Your TV is doing wonky things on its own.
To eliminate #1 and #2, try covering the IR (infrared) receiver on the TV. This should be a small red plastic window somewhere on the front, most likely near the bottom somewhere. You can put a book in front of it, cover it with a post-it note, or whatever. After it is covered, try using the remote to confirm that it is blocked. Now leave the TV on for a while -- does it stay on? If so, then it is either your remote or something else in the room. If not, then it is the TV itself.
To determine whether it is the remote, simply take out the batteries. Does the TV still turn off? If so, then something else in the room is causing it. It can be something you don't expect -- a crystal ornament hanging in the window moving around that is sending just the right frequency of light, sometimes it is sunlight reflecting off of the blades of a ceiling fan. Sleuthing by moving the thing blocking the receiver can help identify the problem.
If the problem is the TV, it is likely going to be too expensive to fix it. If it is the remote, you might be able to replace it with a universal remote, or find a model-specific one on eBay.
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