I have a glass shower door missing one thing with

not anything to do with fixya site
contact the supplier /manufacturer direct as you may have the wrong door supplied

The wall was not perfectly plumb before the fixed glass was attached. The top needs to be shimmed out 3/16 and resealed against the wall. On the other hand 3/16 is not much of an error. Maybe no one else will notice it.

REMOVAL

1. Remove the watershield. (Refer to 23 - BODY/DOOR - FRONT/WATERSHIELD - REMOVAL)

2. Remove door glass retaining clips and secure the window in the up position using masking tape or equivalent(FRONT DOOR GLASS CLIPS).

3. Disconnect wire connector from power window motor, if equipped.

4. Loosen screws attaching front and rear window guide rails to inner door panel (FRONT DOOR MANUAL WINDOW REGULATOR - TYPICAL).

5. Remove screw heads on guide rails from key hole slots in inner door panel.

6. Loosen screws attaching regulator to inner door panel.

7. Remove regulator from inner door panel.

8. Extract rear guide rail through inner door panel rear access hole (FRONT DOOR POWER WINDOW - TYPICAL).

9. Extract front guide rail through front access hole.

INSTALLATION

1. Insert front guide rail through front access hole.

2. Insert rear guide rail through rear access hole.

3. Place window regulator in position on inner door panel.

4. Place screw heads on guide rails in position through key hole slots in inner door panel.

5. Tighten screws to attach front and rear guide rails to inner door panel.

6. Connect wire connector into power window motor, if equipped.

7. Install door glass.

8. Verify door glass alignment and operation.

9. Install sound shield and door trim panel

DIAGRAMS CAN BE FOUND ON JUSTANSWER,COM

Hi

You did not mention any additional information about your problem except replacing shower door.However use basic hand tools to complete the job.

Try this following general steps :-
1. Remove the doors by lifting up on one door at a time and then pulling each out. The top of the door has rollers attached to it, and the rollers rest on the inside of the top rail of the frame. Set the doors aside.
2. With your drill, remove the two screws on each end of the top rail, located on the inside of the shower frame. Then lift off the top rail of the shower frame.
3. Use your box knife to cut the caulk on the side and bottom rails of the shower frame. Shower frames are caulked on the outside where they meet with the walls and floor of the shower.
4. Use your drill to remove the screws from the side rails. There will be two screws on each rail, securing it to the shower stall. Then, take the rails out. Remove the screws from the bottom rail and take it out.
5. Use your tape measure to measure the old side rails, top rail and bottom rail. With a pencil, mark the lengths on each new rail. Use your hacksaw to cut each rail. Hold a side rail in the exact location where the old rail was located. With your pencil, mark the screw holes on the shower wall. The new shower frame screw holes may not line up with the old shower frame screw holes. Use your drill and 3/16-inch drill bit to drill new holes if necessary. If the shower walls are ceramic, use the concrete drill bit. If the shower walls are fiberglass, use the multipurpose 3/16-inch drill bit.
6. Insert the 3/16-inch anchors into the holes that you drilled. Put the side rail into position and insert the screws into the holes. Use your drill and Phillips head drill bit to tighten the screws. Place the bottom rail into position and mark the holes. Drill new holes if necessary and install the anchors. Insert only one screw at the end where you installed the first side rail. Lift up the loose end of the bottom rail and slide the second side rail into place. Mark the holes. Remove the side rail and drill the new holes using the 3/16-inch drill bit. Insert the anchors and put the side rail back into place. Insert the screws and tighten with your drill using the Phillips head drill bit.
7. Set the top rail directly onto the side rails. In each end of the top rail, insert the two self-drilling screws until the top is secured to the sides. Insert the tube of clear caulk into the caulking gun. Cut the end off of the tube with your box knife. Caulk the side rails and the bottom rail to the shower walls on the outside of the shower. Re-hang the shower doors by lifting each door and placing the rollers on the inside of the top rail.
Also giving you some links from where you can find a detailed information regarding replacing shower doors.
http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-replace-a-shower-door/index.html
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,214441,00.html
Thanks for contacting fixya.com
Please do get back to us for further query.

Ace Hardware sells that door and you will need to see if they can order the parts but it looka like they sell the doors 36" size so when you order you will need to order for the Sterling Plumbing 1500D-36S "Vista Pivot" Shower Door Fits Openings 31 -1/4" To 36" H 66" . Now if you have not completely finished the shower you could always make the door opening fit what you have.

The top rollers should have adjustments on them to bring the door to horizontal as it swings accross the track.

Start with door in the middle and adsust by seinging it to both sides.

sound like you might have it upside down.

do not put any glue near wheels anyway.

curved cut glass will not always be the exact dimensions though they may look identical there should be several set screws on both the door glass frame and the shower glass frame that can be loosened and reset to make the door fit and close and open more properly without seeing the showwer itself i can not tell you exactly where they are but they should be either visible or behind a facade piece of metal frame

you going to need a 2' square aluminum tubing for the corner.
the tubing need to be bolted to the floor. and bolted from the 2 upper rails. then you can attach the doors.
make sure the tube is well secured. the door weights about 12lbs-15lbs each ( depended on the glass).

you can fix this problem by loostening the clamp screw and putting locktite sealer(you can purchase locktite from hd or lowes locktite is not the only product you can call a glass supplier and as for recommendation) Be sure to read the directions on the tube I use it to seal joints on refrigeration threaded parts. Make sure it will adhere to glass and metal also review the clean up solvent when you do this place a wood wedge at the bottom of the glass dooor and the threashold to support he weight until the sealer driese

Steps

1 Place wood wedge/block under door where non hinged side meets wall


2 losten top hinge(inspect bottom hinge to make sure it is snug and the glass dor is all the way into the hinge

3 You may have to remove the top hinge completely to get enough of the locktite on the metal and glass place the locktite on the hinge flat plate and the glass

4 recheck gap where door meets wall( I sometimes use paint stirs(wood) as shims to keep space between door and wall consistent

5 tighten top inge screws( you can put locktite on the screw threas also

6 Clean excess locktite and wait suggested time by instructions on tube


Good Luck!