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Re: Electric smoker is now tripping GFCI breaker
GFCI breaker tend to wearout and become more sensitive after time and use. Motor loads are especially hard on them. Also resistance loads such as heating elements. Your smoker may be pulling a bit more electric than it used too.
Check the power draw of the smoker when operating, if it is high then fuigure out why. It it is normal then replace the braker. Use a regular breaker if the GFCI is not required, or run a cord from an outlet that is not on a GFCI breaker.
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The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.
Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.
If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.
You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.
If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.
If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.
Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.
The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.
To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.
Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
If you're referring to a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) breaker tripping, a refrigerator should not be plugged into a GFCI circuit because of the sudden load it requires to start the compressor, etc when it kicks on. The GFCI breakers are meant to be very sensitive, and over time the sudden energy demands caused by a refrigerator can weaken the breaker's threshold, causing them to trip often. Try connecting the refrigerator to another circuit that isn't on a GFCI breaker. If there are no other circuits nearby, you may wish to replace the GFCI breaker with a standard breaker, and replace the receptacles with GFCI receptacles, except of course, the one the refrigerator is plugged into. Be sure and consult and use a qualified electrician for this. Hope this helps..
GFCI circuit breaker will trip because of same heat condition described above, and also trip if ground fault is detected. Water leaking into element will trip GFCI. Absolutely you need to get this problem fixed before shower is put back into service. Call electrician, or the installer, or the manufacturer, or all. http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html#spa
Hi Dale - I'm an electrician and can answer this question for you.
If the circuit is protected by breaker in the electrical panel is a ground fault type already, you should not install GFCI plugs on this circuit. If you do install one of the circuit, you may trip the GFCI at the outlet, the electric panel or both. You'll be spending more time trying to find the device that tripped to reset it if you add a GFCI outlet to a circuit with this protection already.
If nothing else is tripping your GFCI, then there is a short somewhere in the wiring of the smoker. Check the female connector you had to replace, as well as that particular to see if you can detect any melting of the insulation or a bad connection of the other end.
Typically, electric smokers use high heat resistor wiring. So, something in the wiring is not like it should be. Or it may be the heating element itself. If it's still under warranty contact the manufactirer.
My Brinkmann 810-7080-4 Gourmet Electric Smoker was tripping my GFI after it sat for the winter. Would heat for about 3 minutes then trip the GFI. would keep tripping GFI until it cooled down and once again would trip after about 3 minutes. --SOLVED: took 00 steel wool and olive oil to the heating element and removed what looked like a green fungus. Element is working fine now, not tripping the GFI and will run a full four hours for smoking! Hope this helps save someone some money in purchasing a new heating element ($40).