Question about Ovens
I have an OLD Jenn-Air 88370 drop-in stove, likely the stove that was installed when home built... poor thing is falling apart, and the oven is too small to cook anything larger than a 9 lb turkey :) I have a new conventional electric stove that I want to replace with, however the Jenn-Air is hardwired (no outlet-- wired straight into wall) and the new one (obviously) has a 220 plug.
Any idea where to find a how-to on converting the hard wiring to a 220 3-prong outlet?
An 88370 drop in downdraft range is unlikely to actually be hard wired. Like a clothes dryer it has to be moved to clean the exhaust and for repair, The exhaust has to be disconnected to move the stove to see the plug and socket disconnect. The plug and socket disconnect is usually underneath at the rear. If you open the connections box inside the door at the left you'll probably see a flay grey 3 wire appliance cord with 3 copper conductors. If it's something else it might actually have been hard wired by someone who self-installed it - no licensed electrician would have hard wired it.
You're going to have some difficulty if you want a 4 wire connection. In that era it was almost certainly wired to the circuit breaker panel with aluminum SE (service entrance) cable that has 2 insulated conductors and a neutral arranged almost as a shield inside a thick grey oval jacket. it's permissible to add a safety ground to the cable but only by running the new conductor right alongside the old cable so there is no open loop area inductance. That's often more difficult than using the old aluminum cable to pull a new 4 wire copper cable. Copper is a more compact conductor so the cable won't be larger.
The 88370 is from the era when the electrical code allowed stoves to use a 3 wire connection. 2 Hot lines L1 and L2 (red and black, sometimes both black) and a neutral (white, or bare if SE cable was used.) In that era the heavy neutral wire was connected to safety ground at every circuit breaker panel. The only 110v loads on the dance were the clock, fan, and oven lamp. There was very little practical difference between using the neutral as a safety ground and adding another wire, and a heavy conductor was costly. The electrical code has changed and neutral isn't bonded to earth at every panel, only the one closest to the service entrance. It makes a big difference in an apartment house. In a single family home there's often only 1 panel at the service entrance so the panel isn't wired differently. Appliances are wired differently to keep neutral current off of the safety ground so it stays at earth potential.
Posted on Jul 19, 2019
Your old jennair is 220 should be three or 4 wires in it red for 1 side of the 220 black for the other side of the 220 white for the bottom of the outlet and if green is there you can hook it with the white wire or just not use it let me know if your colors are different
Posted on Feb 14, 2008
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