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Jenn-Air 88370 drop-in stove, want to convert!

I have an OLD Jenn-Air 88370 drop-in stove, likely the stove that was installed when home built... poor thing is falling apart, and the oven is too small to cook anything larger than a 9 lb turkey :) I have a new conventional electric stove that I want to replace with, however the Jenn-Air is hardwired (no outlet-- wired straight into wall) and the new one (obviously) has a 220 plug.

Any idea where to find a how-to on converting the hard wiring to a 220 3-prong outlet?

Thanks!

Posted by Cynister1 on

  • 13 more comments 
  • Cynister1 Feb 14, 2008

    there are 3 thinner gauge wires, colored white black and green, and 3 larger gauge wires, one is green and two are black. How's that throw ya? Thanks!

  • Cynister1 Feb 14, 2008

    Ok, there is a red looking wire going to a black one, a silver coiled wire going to the green and a black to the other black.

  • Cynister1 Feb 14, 2008

    Ok, there is a red looking wire going to a black one, a silver coiled wire going to the green and a black to the other black.

  • Cynister1 Feb 14, 2008

    sorry for the duplicate posts :)

  • Cynister1 Feb 14, 2008

    do i leave the red one alone? there's a red coming out of the wall and it hooks to one of the black ones coming from the stove.



    thank you so much!

  • Cynister1 Feb 14, 2008

    ok FROM the wall is a reddish one, a silver coiled one, and a black one.

  • Cynister1 Feb 14, 2008

    AWESOME! THANKS!!!

  • Cynister1 Feb 14, 2008

    i compared the info with what we have and what we will have and it appears to be DEAD ON... YOU ROCK :)

  • Cynister1 Feb 14, 2008

    no... thank YOU :) and sorry, i didn't mean to omit the box! :) :) :)

  • Cynister1 Feb 14, 2008

    well no one else could even BEGIN to answer me so you get ALL my votes :)

  • Cynister1 Feb 14, 2008

    we'll be trying it out this weekend. we have a friend who is an electrician who isn't familiar with these old (read: ARCHAIC) drop-in stoves with hardwiring so I thought i'd do some research on my own... we may have him on call so we don't kill ourselves LOL. I'll def update you afterward :)

  • Cynister1 Feb 14, 2008

    LOL so i'll let you know if it works and i can cook dinner in it... or if i get cooked by it!! :)

  • Cynister1 Feb 14, 2008

    i'll def plan on working during daylight so i can kill ALL the power, there was lots of DIY work on the property before i occupied it so that's probably safest HAH! I'll definitely use the suggestions!

  • Cynister1 Feb 28, 2008

    ok so my electrician stood us up. based on the info you gave me i really think we can handle this (with the main breaker OFF of course lol). i have looked at the plug on the new GE stove, and it has two slanted prongs and one straight one. That said, would this probably be the best kind of receptacle to use: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=pr...

  • Anonymous Mar 13, 2014

    fan and oven light on and display is dark

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Oliver Street

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An 88370 drop in downdraft range is unlikely to actually be hard wired. Like a clothes dryer it has to be moved to clean the exhaust and for repair, The exhaust has to be disconnected to move the stove to see the plug and socket disconnect. The plug and socket disconnect is usually underneath at the rear. If you open the connections box inside the door at the left you'll probably see a flay grey 3 wire appliance cord with 3 copper conductors. If it's something else it might actually have been hard wired by someone who self-installed it - no licensed electrician would have hard wired it.

You're going to have some difficulty if you want a 4 wire connection. In that era it was almost certainly wired to the circuit breaker panel with aluminum SE (service entrance) cable that has 2 insulated conductors and a neutral arranged almost as a shield inside a thick grey oval jacket. it's permissible to add a safety ground to the cable but only by running the new conductor right alongside the old cable so there is no open loop area inductance. That's often more difficult than using the old aluminum cable to pull a new 4 wire copper cable. Copper is a more compact conductor so the cable won't be larger.

The 88370 is from the era when the electrical code allowed stoves to use a 3 wire connection. 2 Hot lines L1 and L2 (red and black, sometimes both black) and a neutral (white, or bare if SE cable was used.) In that era the heavy neutral wire was connected to safety ground at every circuit breaker panel. The only 110v loads on the dance were the clock, fan, and oven lamp. There was very little practical difference between using the neutral as a safety ground and adding another wire, and a heavy conductor was costly. The electrical code has changed and neutral isn't bonded to earth at every panel, only the one closest to the service entrance. It makes a big difference in an apartment house. In a single family home there's often only 1 panel at the service entrance so the panel isn't wired differently. Appliances are wired differently to keep neutral current off of the safety ground so it stays at earth potential.

Posted on Jul 19, 2019

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Your old jennair is 220 should be three or 4 wires in it red for 1 side of the 220 black for the other side of the 220 white for the bottom of the outlet and if green is there you can hook it with the white wire or just not use it let me know if your colors are different

Posted on Feb 14, 2008

  • 10 more comments 
  • Anonymous Feb 14, 2008

    what color are the ones coming out of the wall

  • Anonymous Feb 14, 2008

    ok when you install the out let put black to one of the slanted flat holes in the outlet black to the other slanted flat and the silver to the round that will do it

  • Anonymous Feb 14, 2008

    what color are the wires from the wall for get about the range just the wall

  • Anonymous Feb 14, 2008

    ok red to flat hole black to flat silver to round hole that will do it red is hot black is hot silver is neutral

  • Anonymous Feb 14, 2008

    another box wouldnt hurt lol but your welcome

  • Anonymous Feb 14, 2008

    ty that helps me a lot

  • Anonymous Feb 14, 2008

    its no big deal its just every time i help some one and they dont reply it drops my ratings i have 324 so far that havnt replied like ive told them how to fix it and they just go on so i need all the help i can get lol ty

  • Anonymous Feb 14, 2008

    well let me know how it turns out

  • Anonymous Feb 14, 2008

    youll be all right you dont put a hot line on a bare wire there are ony three comming from the wall two are coated one isnt peice of cake tech 17 isnt afaird to tackel the hard ones lol im the one you call when every one runs

  • Anonymous Feb 14, 2008

    listen just turn the breaker before wiring no sweat and just handle one wire at a time people get the wrong idea 99percent of the time 110 wont hurt you now the red wire is 110 the black wire is 110 if you grab both of them at the same time you will get 220 but as long as you do it 1 at a time you wont get hurt and if you turn the breaker off there will be no power on them turn your current oven on then go turn off the breaker and try the current oven if nothing works your fine wire up your new one if you need me im here

  • Anonymous Feb 14, 2008

    youll be fine sounds like a good plan

  • Anonymous Feb 29, 2008

    yep that will do it and yes you can handle it

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