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Re: Temp probe indicator stays on
If you’ve accidentally switched the oven control on your GE oven from Fahrenheit to Celsius (or vice versa), it can seem like an oven control problem; the keypad will accept some temperature selections and not others. Easy enough to switch back to the way you want it– this excerpt from your owner’s manual explains the technique:
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Re: Temp probe indicator stays on
Sounds like your probe connection may be shorted. Can you inspect the probe itself, and perhaps do a test for continuity with an ohm meter? Also, you might be able to disable the probe in the menu settings, and run it on manual, just for a test.
Do you still have the user's manual for this unit?
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Here a list of Whirpool oven fault codes. The codes had been collected from different service manuals. This was a memo that I wrote for my own use. I think this can be useful to owners and technicians.
WHIRLPOOL - most models Range/Stove and Oven Fault Codes, Common error codes.
F1 - Analog control board Failure Disconnect for one minute - if error comes back, replace control board F1 - Shorted control keypad Replace keypad F3 - Oven temperature sensor open Replace oven temperature probe F2 - Oven temperature sensor shorted Replace oven temperature probe F3 - Oven too hot Replace oven temperature probe F3 - Clean temperature too hot Replace oven probe F5 - Door latch switch fault Test and replace the door switch.
Whirlpool with 4 Digit Failure Code:
F1 - E1 - Electronic control (flip flop) Replace control board F2 - E0 - Shorted control keypad Replace keypad F3 - E0 - Oven temperature probe open Replace temperature probe F3 - E1 - Oven temperature probe shorted Replace temperature probe F3 - E2 - Oven temp too high Replace temperature probe F3 - E3 - Clean temp too hot Replace temp. probe F5 - E0 - Check door latch F5 - E1 - Check door latch Replace switch if defective
WHIRLPOOL Polara models 5 digit codes:
F1 F0 - EEPROM communication error Replace ERC F1 E1 - EEPROM checksum error Replace ERC F1 E2:7 - UL A/D errors Replace ERC F1 E4:2 - Model ID error Reinsert keytail. F1 E6:0 - Latch signal mismatch error Replace ERC F2 E0:4 - Shorted key error Replace keypad assembly F2 E1:3 Keytail unplugged reinsert the keytail F3 E0:5 Top oven sensor open Test and replace top probe. F3 E1:6 Top oven shorted Test and replace temp probe F3 E2:9 Bake range over temperature Test and replace temp probe F3 E3:8 Clean range over temperature Test and replace temp probe. F3 E4:10 Bottom oven sensor open Test and replace temp probe F3 E:15 Bottom oven sensor shorted Test and replace temp probe F5 E0:14 Door switch errot Test and eventually replace door lock switch F5 E1:16 Door latch not operating Test and eventually replace door latch F8 E0:17 Refrigeration error Test the cooling module. PF Power failure - Does not indicate a fault. PF occurs when power is disconnected.
WHIRLPOOL Models SF3, 30'' and 24"
F2 - Oven temperature above specifications Check 8-pin connector from temp. probe to Electronic Oven Control F3 - Open oven temperature probe failure Check wiring, replace oven probe if necessary F4 - Shorted oven temperature sensor failure Check wiring harness, replace oven temperature probe if necessary F5 - Push button stuck or faulty Check for binding of pushbuttons and control panel glass. If OK, replace touch panel F6 - Electronic control logic error (timing) Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC) F7 - Electronic control logic error (lock motor) Replace ERC. F8 - Electronic control logic error Replace ERC.
Generally speaking, F2 fault code indicates the oven exceeded 590 degrees with the door unlocked. This could be caused by a stuck relay on the oven control board or it could be caused by high resistance in the oven temperature sensor probe.
If the element will shut off then the likely failure is the oven temperature sensor probe. The sensor is located inside the oven cavity. It will be protruding from the rear panel in the upper left or upper right corner. The sensor can be removed and replaced from inside the oven cavity
Well, your temp sensors can still be bad. If not, there's always a new control board you buy!
However, I wouldn't drink water from that oasis without making ABSOLUTELY sure I'm not seeing a mirage.
The only common denominators between your upper and lower oven temp readings is the firmware and the oven thermometer you are using to visually check the temps.
What type of thermometer are you using to check your oven temperatures with?
If it's not a digital thermometer used specifically for testing ovens, you might just be leading leading yourself astray.
You need a calibrated thermometer. If I don't have a calibrated digital thermometer on me, I use two or three oven thermometers (the dial type) and average the readings.
It's the only way to be as close as possible with a digital probe.
If you have thoroughly verified that your oven is in fact not reading the correct temperature, then you can adjust it +/- 35 degrees F via your oven's control panel.
To adjust the oven temperature:
1 - Press Setup pad.
2 - Select the down arrow to scroll to the next screen.
3 - Select Temp Adjust using the Quickset pads.
4 - Select upper or lower oven (select models).
-"Set temperature offset using the Upper Set Knob" is displayed.
5 - Enter the desired temperature change using the Set knob.
The temperature can be increased or decreased up to 35 degrees.
The temp. change is displayed at the top of the window.
6 - Press the Set knob to accept the change.
Now, if you are still worried about the temp. reading being off, replace both the upper and lower temp sensors. That's all you can do besides replace the main board.
either the temp sensor probe in the oven cavity it open/shorted or way off scale and telling the control board the units up to the temp set point,theres a way to test these with an ohm-meter for resistance at certain temperature but i dont have the chart for that test,it may be inside the unit if you can locate it
U have a bad clock or your probe inside of oven is bad.I would replace your probe first .it looks like a rod sticking out inside back upper top .f7 I believe means its not reading up temp and getting to hot
This indicates a failure in the temperature probe. This is easy to check and replace. Here is a link that will walk you thru checking and replacing an oven Temperature Sensor .If you need diagrams and illustrations of your specific model enter your model their. All parts come with installation instructions.
you could have a bad ignitor check that it is actually igniting the gas and you can see flame, also check the cavity sensor a probe that sticks into the oven at the top usually on the left top corner but if the bake cycle works with good results them it is ok
check for flame when it starts give it a mibute to ignite, if it does not then you need to replace the broil ignitor.
Things to check- The screw in fuses, they are usually the 30 amp fuses for the oven. Next is the clock assembly, often these clocks will have the words "push for manual" or "turn for manual", this will put the clock back into the normal operating mode rather than the automatic mode. Next, you may have to remove the power and check for any burnt wires. If all checks ok, you will have to test the selector switch and oven control. Oven temp problems: Temperature is too low possible trouble makers, blown oven fuse, bake element is out, burnt wire, oven probe clips, oven temp control, oven temp sensor. Temperature is too high in the oven possible trouble makers, oven temp control, oven relay ( if used ), oven probe clips, oven temp sensor, shorted wire. These oven probe clips often rust off and the oven temp probe hangs down, or touches the oven wall giving false temperature readings to the oven control.