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Top draw stopped working. swapped bottom draw control box with top but made no difference. Returned control box to bottom draw and now bottom draw no longer heats and shows error (red and beeping) at end of cycle which I guess is when attempts to heat. Just removed bottom draw looking for fuses - where are they? Found what looks like some sort of fuse loose inside bottom of machine. Has a little button red outer ring and white inner that clicks so must be some sort of switch bt where does it go. Help.........
Hi, I am looking at a friend's faulty Fisher and Paykel DD601v2 dual drawer dishwasher. It had lost power in the bottom drawer about a month ago and now the top drawer has done the same. Removed and opened up the control modules. Both control modules have the following symptoms: Signs of high voltage tracking (arcing) between legs of diode D710 and capacitor C708 (black sooty traces) on the legs closest to the edge of the circuit board; Fuse F701 is open circuit; Bridge rectifier diodes D704 and D707 are short circuit. On one control board I cleaned up the sooty tracking marks and replaced the fuse F701 (slow blow) and all four bridge rectifier diodes (D704, D705, D706, D707) with 1N4007 (they originally were 1N7005). Reinstalled controller and dishwasher worked for one complete dishwasher cycle. Next day found main panel was dead again (no power). Opened up control module and found: evidence of more high voltage arcing between diode D710 and capacitor C708; Fuse F701 blown again, and this time bridge rectifier diodes D705 and D706 blown. Can it be that voltage controller U701 (a TOP227Y device) is faulty too? I'm not sure how to test U701 (any ideas?). Note that C708 appears Ok (it is not short circuit) and diode D710 seems to test OK (conducts in just one direction). Anyone have any ideas? Note, there is NO tech troubleshooting guide or schematic inside the dishwasher and none would be supplied by the local Fisher and Paykel "Customer Care". Very unhelpful. Any suggestions out there for a component-level repair suggestion? This machine cannot be the only one that has this fault. My e-mail is [email protected]. I will be happy to post any solution that I receive that works to help others. Cheers Aussie John
Hi, I am looking at a friend's faulty Fisher and Paykel DD601v2 dual
drawer dishwasher. It had lost power in the bottom drawer about a
month ago and now the top drawer has done the same. Removed and opened
up the control modules. Both control modules have the following
symptoms: Signs of high voltage tracking (arcing) between legs of diode
D710 and capacitor C708 (black sooty traces) on the legs closest to the
edge of the circuit board; Fuse F701 is open circuit; Bridge
rectifier diodes D704 and D707 are short circuit. On one control board
I cleaned up the sooty tracking marks and replaced the fuse F701 (slow
blow) and all four bridge rectifier diodes (D704, D705, D706, D707)
with 1N4007 (they originally were 1N7005). Reinstalled controller and
dishwasher worked for one complete dishwasher cycle. Next day found
main panel was dead again (no power). Opened up control module and
found: evidence of more high voltage arcing between diode D710 and
capacitor C708; Fuse F701 blown again, and this time bridge rectifier
diodes D705 and D706 blown. Can it be that voltage controller U701 (a
TOP227Y device) is faulty too? I'm not sure how to test U701 (any
ideas?). Note that C708 appears Ok (it is not short circuit) and diode
D710 seems to test OK (conducts in just one direction). Anyone have
any ideas? Note, there is NO tech troubleshooting guide or schematic
inside the dishwasher and none would be supplied by the local Fisher
and Paykel "Customer Care". Very unhelpful. Any suggestions out there
for a component-level repair suggestion? This machine cannot be the
only one that has this fault. My e-mail is [email protected]. I
will be happy to post any solution that I receive that works to help
others. Cheers Aussie John
Thats tub home sensor switch, mounts to rear right of cabinet and senses drawer closing along with little black box with red switch should also have a little metal actuator( this is what usually breaks off switch), each drawer uses their own. unistall from cabinet and theres an access panel strictly for replacing theses switches
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If this is a double drawer dishwasher and bottom drawing is functional but top drawer won't open means the controller on top drawer is faulty or power circuit is locked. If turning the mains power off and back on makes no difference then controller could be the problem. One way to test is to take the controller from bottom drawer and replace that in the top drawer. This requires a lot of patience and experience with electronic stuff. If you are not brave enough to test then call the technician. The controller is about $200 to buy. Make sure the mains power socket is taken out before working on the dishwasher internals.
You could isolate the top drawer by taking the controller power cable out. DIsconnect mains power to dishwasher, open top drawer and remove front cover carefull after removing 2 plastic pins on each side with plier. Controller box is on left top side, remove bottom connector and cover with insulation tape. Put things back and turn power back on.
But if you want to find the fault with top drawer then that is very trick if there is no fault code on panel except beeping First clean the top panel inside door with a clean damp cloth. If this does not change the situation, then it is very likely the controller is detecting some faulty sensor - and will need to find one by one. Are you ready for it?
1 the inlet valve need replacing its bottom of the draw bit tricky to replace it to check it just unclip bottom draw to the side disconect the hose from the inlet top draw valve and turn it on for a sec see if water pumps out make sure you got small bucket if that works finne. 2 its the pump under neath the dish draw thats very tricky took me 1 hour to do
ok, the machine flooded and the water has leaked into the bottom of the machine, 1st turn off the machine at the power point. 2nd- open the top drawer and remove the suds from it. 3rd. open the bottom drawer and look under it to the bottom of the cabinet . that is where the water will be. use a torch if you have to. now you need to dry the water up. you can do this with a hair dryer or a fan heater. the reason the machine is flashing F1 is because the water has triggered the flood switch and you need to dry up that water. please reply 4 more help.once dryed F1 will disappear. please make sure all the suds are removed from the top drawer. good luck
When the machine operates a lid comes down on the top of the drawer. This may be jamming.
On the side near the front at the bottom there are 2 plastic slotted screw heads, turn these to horozontal and pull out the "screws" this will release the drawer from the runners and you can lift off the drawer and possibly see whats jamming.
Hi,
Below is the link to the service manual http://www.scribd.com/doc/6462163/DD601V2-Manual
This will be able to explain the problems better that I can in the tiny space I get to write in.
Mat
Please rate me
The controllers get very brittle & can break away from their housing, the reason it's rapidly beaping is because it thinks the door is open. PLEASE TURN IT OFF FIRST AT THE POWER POINT. Take the front draw panel off by pulling the plugs situated on the front behind the draws, the controller is at the top right hand side if it is loose then thats the problem, double sided tape will work but lots of it or try a wedge type arrangement. I know this is an old post but people refer to these for solutions much later.
Hi, I am looking at a friend's faulty Fisher and Paykel DD601v2 dual
drawer dishwasher. It had lost power in the bottom drawer about a
month ago and now the top drawer has done the same. Removed and opened
up the control modules. Both control modules have the following
symptoms: Signs of high voltage tracking (arcing) between legs of diode
D710 and capacitor C708 (black sooty traces) on the legs closest to the
edge of the circuit board; Fuse F701 is open circuit; Bridge
rectifier diodes D704 and D707 are short circuit. On one control board
I cleaned up the sooty tracking marks and replaced the fuse F701 (slow
blow) and all four bridge rectifier diodes (D704, D705, D706, D707)
with 1N4007 (they originally were 1N7005). Reinstalled controller and
dishwasher worked for one complete dishwasher cycle. Next day found
main panel was dead again (no power). Opened up control module and
found: evidence of more high voltage arcing between diode D710 and
capacitor C708; Fuse F701 blown again, and this time bridge rectifier
diodes D705 and D706 blown. Can it be that voltage controller U701 (a
TOP227Y device) is faulty too? I'm not sure how to test U701 (any
ideas?). Note that C708 appears Ok (it is not short circuit) and diode
D710 seems to test OK (conducts in just one direction). Anyone have
any ideas? Note, there is NO tech troubleshooting guide or schematic
inside the dishwasher and none would be supplied by the local Fisher
and Paykel "Customer Care". Very unhelpful. Any suggestions out there
for a component-level repair suggestion? This machine cannot be the
only one that has this fault. My e-mail is [email protected]. I
will be happy to post any solution that I receive that works to help
others. Cheers Aussie John
What error codes are you getting?
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