Shutter remains open

needs repairing at a qualified shop

I have the same problem with a Nikon F2, got it off my grandfather and its been in his attic for at least the last 10 years. I don't know if parts have seized up or if im doing something wrong. have put in new batteries, but film advance lever won't go past "on" position. have tried pressing shutter but it doesn't help. Also film winding knob will not lift up enough to load in a film! any solutions!?

If the shutter doesn't stick on the M90 position, the problem is electronic. If it does, the issue is mechanical. Try the battery check. Hold it for a few seconds. If the LED goes out, the issue is most likely with the batteries. Use really fresh, top quality batteries. Use only silver oxide batteries, not the alkalines that are often substituted.

By "stayed up", do you mean that the mirror remained in the up position so that you could not see anything in the viewfinder or do you mean that the shutter actually remained open? I do not remember the exact features on your camera, but in general, this is what I would do.

1) Remove the film from the camera and take a picture. Note if you see anything in the viewfinder. If you see nothing, the mirror is in the up position. Verify this by removing the lens and opening the door on the camera back. Look through the lens hole. If you can see through the rectangular hole at the film plane, the shutter is open. If instead you something is obstructing the hole, the shutter is closed. In any case DO NOT TOUCH THE SHUTTER! The shutter is what is covering the hole.

2) If the mirror is in the up position, check to see if your camera has a feature that allows locking the mirror in the up position. Some cameras have this feature to allow use of lenses with very short focal lengths. If this is the case, simply unlock the mirror.

3) If the shutter is the problem, your shutter speed may be set to "T", which stands for time. In the time exposure mode, you press the shutter release once to open the shutter and a second time to close the shutter. Cameras with a "T" setting also have a "B" setting, which stands for bulb. This is a throwback to the old days when it was common to use air-powered shutter releases rather then cable releases. The bulb was a rubber bulb that you squeezed to force air through a tube and push a pin to activate the shutter. The "B" setting keeps the shutter open as long as you hold the shutter release in, but as soon as you take your finger off the shutter release, the shutter closes. Both of these settings are used to make timed exposures. If you find that the problem was that the shutter was set to "T", set the shutter speed to 1/25th second or so and try again. The following sequence should occur; the mirror will flip up and the viewfinder image will disappear, the shutter will open for the prescribed time and close, the mirror will return to the down position and you will again see through the viewfinder.

If this does not work, you may need to take it in for repair.

You might have a dead battery. Check that.

Philip

I don't know, but it's worth a try. I took mine to the camera store, because my shutter wouldn't even work anymore, even with fresh batteries in it. He again tried new batteries, and turned the shutter speed knob from Automatic all the way over to "B" for Bulb, and back to the Auto. Guess What! I haven't used the camera in 3-5 years because I thought it was broke and going to need factory repair. Well, this tricked worked for me. I was so thrilled, because my daughter wanted some double exposures and special filters shots for her wedding. Also the weight of the camera I couldn't handle anymore with a health problem, so I went to digital, but would love a Nikon good digital.
Good Luck!

Instructions:
Opening the key storage
compartment door
1. Open shutter door to reveal the dials
and the release button
2. Rotate dials to the current combination
(if the lock is new, the combination is set
at the factory to 0-0-0-0)
3. Press down on the release button
to open the door
4. Pull the door fully open
5. Add or remove keys
6. Close compartment door
7. Scramble the combination dials to lock
the door and conceal your combination (A)
8. Close the shutter door (B)
To set a new combination:
The initial combination is set at the
factory to 0-0-0-0
1. Open the compartment door
(see instructions above)
2. Push the reset lever left and down.
The lever remains in this position
3. Rotate dials to your desired combination
4. Push the reset lever, up and right, back
to the original position
5. Close the key storage compartment door
6. Scramble the combination dials to lock
the door and conceal your combination (A)
7. Close the shutter door (B)
To hang shackle model
1. Open the compartment door
(see instructions above)
2. Push the shackle release lever to the left
to open shackle
3. Pull the shackle up and out of the lock
4. Place shackle around door knob or other object
5. Close shackle to lock
6. Close the compartment door
7. Scramble the combination dials to lock
the door and conceal your combination (A)
8. Close the shutter door (B)
Reminder:
(A) The release button will open the lock
until you scramble the dials
(B) Keep the shutter door closed to increase
weather resistance and to conceal the
dials from view

TRy firing the camera in the M90 setting. If it fires properly, use the battery test switch. If the battery LED doesn't light up, replace the batteries (2 MS76 type). The FE requires healthy batteries to operate the shutter. If the meter is calling for a slow shutter speed (low light or lens cap still on?). If the batteries are good, but the shutter still won't fire normally in sufficient light, looks like you're in for a repair shop visit.

This is a fairly common problem with Nikon FE . It is usually caused by poor connection ( usually dry joint ) between the light meter board ( all of this is just under the top cover on the right hand side and the top cover is quite easy to remove ) and the shutter and you fix it by resoldering all the connecting wires between the two.

It may be fatal as there are no parts available for the FE series. The main components that cause this problem are the FRE/ASA unit and the meter itself. The FRE is located under the rewind knob side of the top cover. It is made of glass and can be damaged by impact. The meter is under the speed dial and can also cause this type of problem. Neither is a easy repair.