After emptying the ice bin on 2 year old side frigidaire, the freezer is OK, but the fresh food side has stopped cooling. Any ideas?

If you have a gen one (finger ice maker) it means the th3 sensor is open. You will want a trusted technician to tackle this issue.

Hello friend, thanks for your post!
I see your Frigidaire refrigerator is not freezing in the freezer section but keeping your fresh food side cool. Some possibilities could be your refrigerator stuck in defrost mode, the control panel, or sealed system. I would recommend performing a reset on your appliance which would be flipping your household circuit breaker off for ten minutes. If that does not resolve your issue I would seek assistance from a professional to properly diagnose and repair your appliance. -Matt

Iced-over evaporator coils, accompanied by a non-chilled fresh food compartment, happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me, the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signalled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week). Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side got warmer as well.

The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall between compartments which opens when the fresh food side needs cooling. If no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while.

I bough a pair of thermometers at a kitchen store and put one in the freezer compartment and one in the fresh food compartment so that I could occasionally check to see if it made sense for the compressor to be running (ie, was it really necessary to be trying to cool either compartment, or were they already cold enough).

About six months later I had the coil icing problem again. This time the fresh food side seemed cool enough (according to the thermometer as well as the fact that the flapper door would close, indicating that the computer knew to not try to additionally cool the fresh food side).

The thermometer indicated that the temp in the freezer compartment was cold enough, but the system computer continued to run the compressor. So I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

Use a website like www.partselect.com to look up a parts diagram for your fridge and see if you can order just the temp sensors. Other websites (www.repairclinic.com and www.appliancepartsworldwide.com) may also be helpful. I have no affiliation with any of the sites I just mentioned - I'm just posting them as resources.

Iced-over evaporator coils, accompanied by a non-chilled fresh food compartment, happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me,the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signaled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week).Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side got warmer as well.

The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall between compartments which opens when the fresh food side needs cooling. If no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while.

I bought a pair of thermometers at a kitchen store and put one in the freezer compartment and one in the fresh food compartment so that I could occasionally check to see if it made sense for the compressor to be running (ie, was it really necessary to be trying to cool either compartment, or were they already cold enough).

About six months later I had the coil icing problem again. This time the fresh food side seemed cool enough (according to the thermometer as well as the fact that the flapper door would close, indicating that the computer knew to not try to additionally cool the fresh food side).

The thermometer indicated that the temp in the freezer compartment was cold enough, but the system computer continued to run the compressor. So I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

Use a website like www.partselect.com to look up a parts diagram for your fridge and see if you can order just the temp sensors. Other websites (www.repairclinic.com and www.appliancepartsworldwide.com) may also be helpful. I have no affiliation with any of the sites I just mentioned - I'm just posting them as resources.

This has happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me, the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signalled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week). Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side continued to climb. (The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall, so if no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.)

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while. About six months later I had the same problem again, so I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

On my GE side by side (model GSS20IEMDWW), a warm fresh food side, as well as iced-over evaporator coils in the freezer, was caused by the temp sensor in the fresh food side sending faulty data to the computer.

The temp in the fresh food side would climb because air could no longer pass over the iced-up coils in the freezer side.

For me, the faulty fresh food side sensor made the computer always thing the fresh food side was too warm, making it constantly run the compressor (thus icing up the coils).

If you do not have a coil icing problem in the freezer, then your fresh food side temp sensor may be telling the computer that the fresh food side is already cold enough.

There are three temp sensors in my GE side-by-side model GSS20IEMDWW (two in the freezer and one in the fresh food side). Replacing the temp sensor in the fresh food side was enough to allow the compressor to finally turn off.

For me, the problem manifested with an iced-over evaporator coil inside the freezer compartment. Since the compressor never cycled off (presumably because the temp sensor was providing faulty data about the temp inside the fresh food side, thus causing it to continually attempt to cool), the coils were constantly chilled. Eventually the ice on the coils would block the air flow and the freezer side could no longer freeze

I purchased a pair of inexpensive thermometers from a kitchen store and put one in the freeze and one in the fresh food side so I could occasionally look at the temps to see if it made sense for the compressor to be running - ie, was it really a warm-enough temp for cooling to be required, or was the computer reading faulty sensor data.

Six months later I also needed to replace both temp sensors in the freezer compartment. My refrigerator is about seven years old. I would recommend replacing all of the temp sensors just to rule that out.

http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSearch.aspx?ModelNum=GSS20IEMDWW&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=2

Your model may be different, but this will give you an idea of part numbers and relative locations of the parts.

if it seems like the evaporator is getting cold then your sealed system should appear to be ok. you need the evap fan to transfer cold air into fresh food section. if not turning u need to replace fan motor. make sure your not getting to much frost build up on the evap.

I solved my own problem. Just realized the red & green dots are not lights
The only LIGHT is the top signal light marked " water filter." which is green
when filter is ok & turns red when filter needs changing. The red & green
dots are not lights but are indicators for the water filter light. Red dot meaning
"change filter" and the Green dot means "filter ok"

Sounds like a defrost problem or a plugged drain... to get it to work temporary defrost the freezer. Unplug the refrigerator, open the door and get a blow dryer and warm up the freezer. wait until the water stop dripping out or about 12 to 24 hours and then you can plug it back in . it will work for 2 to 3 weeks.

To unplug the drain.defrost the freezer .remove the back cover. Use a pipe cleaner to clear the drain. pour a few cups of hot water down the drain.

The defrost systems is:
HEATER-DEFROST
THERMOSTAT-DEFROST
Adaptive defrost control
Start with the adaptive defrost control board. The fresh food section light switch and light bulb must work. To initiate a defrost cycle, open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds. The compressor and fans should shut off and the defrost heater should come on. Open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds to remove the refrigerator from the defrost mode and back into a cooling mode.
Frigidaire - referance model FSC23F7DSB3
This product comes equipped with an Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC). To activate manual defrost, press and hold the Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. A �d� in the freezer temperature window and �F� in the refrigerator temperature window will display when the heater is activated. To deactivate manual defrost, press and hold Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. �d� and �F� will be displayed until the defrost cycle is complete. (approx. 8 minutes)

Heater / Thermostat
You will have to remove the back panel of the freezer to check the heater for and thermostat for continuity. Heater are the lease likely part to go bad... I always change thermostat and timers together.
let me know if this helps or we can chat if you need more help.