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Could be safety foot adjustment, broken driver or worn piston oring. Remove nails from gun and point nose of gun up then down again. If the driver moves within the nailer, replace oring. If driver oring ok, dry fire the gun on soft wood. The driver should leave an impression on the wood about 1/6 to 1/8 in deep. If the tip is broken, no impression will be left in the wood or the impression will be uneven. Replace driver as needed. If driver is good then adjust safety foot to level desired. Good luck
n80 coil nailer is a very powerful nailer used for hard wood. If the driver is setting nails too deep, adjust safety foot to the lowest level. Install safety foot no-mar boot to lift the gun even higher. If still too deep, most likely the lower bumper inside the gun is worn-out or cracked. Easy test. Remove nails and connect air supply. With trigger depressed, push and hold the gun against work (I use an old rubber hose tightly coiled up). This will fire the gun but keep the driver down allowing you to examine the tip of the driver. The driver should extend out past the nose less than quarter inch. If the driver is extending too far, most likely bumper is worn out. If a large quantity of air is leaking out the nose of gun during the test, indication that lower bumper is cracked. Good luck.
generally they CUT the floor with a worm drive saw but this wood is extremely HARD and will burn up a saw blade and a saw, you might try drilling the screw heads off to remove the wood
As a general rule, framing nailers use anywhere from 45 to 120 psi to drive nails. But this also depends on the hardness of the wood. The nail head should be flush with the surface. If it sticks above the wood, increase the pressure a little bit at a time until you achieve this goal.
Hope this helps. If it does, I'd appreciate your vote. Thanks,
Nail guns will jam when driving nails thru very hard wood, solid objects, allowing the gun to double fire hitting the first nail or using the wrong nails(amoung some of the reasons, you get the idea that jamming is common) . There is no special tool to help in case of jam. You must be creative. I use an old driver shaft from nailer that easily fits into the nose of the gun (you can grind a piece of allen wrench to fit into nose and allow space for the stuck nail). The metel that you use must be very hard and strike with heavy copper or brass hammer (caution, steel hammer may splinter metal, use protective gear ). You will need to strike very hard to remove some stuck nails. If first or second strike results in no movement of driver, remove the head and cylinder of the nailer and place the body of the gun squarely on piece of plywood over concete floor (this will protect the head of the nailer from being damaged). Worst case, you will need to remove the rails. Good luck.
go to Bostitch.com and it sounds like the driver broke. you will need the exact model number for the replacement part. Let me know if you need more help
2 things come to mind. I've installed Wood Floors for the last 5 years.
Make sure you have enough Air pressure running to the stapler, and Second, Whack the hell out of it. You can be rough with it. Their designed to take a beating
When u hit it with the mallet, youre opening a valve which shoots the piston and drives the staple into the boards. hit it not hard enough, not enough air is being sent to the piston to drive it fully.
There are no adjustments on any electric stapler / brad nailer that I've heard of , only the pnumatics. The electric staplers/brad nailers only work well in softer woods
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