NO HEAT . I CHANGED THE HEATING ELEMENT,

If the heating element has been replaced and you can see that it becomes red, but it still doesn't heat up enough to dry the load, there are a few possible causes:

1. Airflow restriction: Make sure that the dryer's lint filter and exhaust duct are clean and free of obstructions. Poor airflow can cause the dryer to overheat and shut off the heating element prematurely, leading to inadequate heating.
2. Thermostat malfunction: The dryer's thermostat controls the temperature inside the dryer and turns the heating element on and off accordingly. If the thermostat is malfunctioning, it may not be allowing the heating element to heat up to the proper temperature. You can test the thermostat with a multimeter to see if it is functioning correctly.
3. Faulty cycling thermostat: The cycling thermostat is responsible for cycling the heating element on and off to maintain the proper temperature. If the cycling thermostat is malfunctioning, it may not be cycling the heating element on and off properly, leading to inadequate heating.
4. Wiring or control board issue: Check the wiring connections to the heating element and thermostat to ensure that they are secure and not damaged. If the wiring is fine, there may be an issue with the dryer's control board, which controls the heating element and thermostat.

It is recommended to consult a qualified technician for further diagnosis and repair of the issue, especially if you are not familiar with electrical troubleshooting or working with appliances.

It sounds like you may be experiencing issues with the heating element on your Frigidaire window AC/Heater combo unit. Here are a few things you can try to troubleshoot the problem:

1. Check the thermostat: Make sure that the thermostat is set to "Heat" and that the temperature is set to a level high enough to activate the heating element.
2. Check the air filter: A dirty air filter can restrict airflow and prevent the heating element from functioning properly. Clean or replace the air filter if necessary.
3. Check the heating element: The heating element may be faulty and needs to be replaced. Consult the manufacturer's manual or contact the manufacturer's customer service for further assistance.
4. Check the blower motor: The blower motor may be malfunctioning and needs to be replaced by a professional technician.
5. Check the wiring: Check the wiring and connections, ensure that all the wiring is securely connected and that there is no damage to the wires.
6. Check the fuses: Make sure that all the fuses are working properly and that they are not blown or tripped.

Keep in mind that attempting to repair an AC/Heater unit can be dangerous if you are not familiar with the proper procedures and safety precautions. It's best to let a professional technician handle the repair.
If the problem persists, it's recommended to contact the manufacturer's customer service or a professional technician for further assistance. They can inspect the unit and determine the cause of the problem and provide a solution.
Regenerate response

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Heating Element A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

Heating Element Assembly A defective heating element assembly can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element assembly to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

Air Flow Problem Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.

Cycling Thermostat Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.
Felt Seal Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.

Blower Wheel A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.

Runs but will not heat
1.loose wiring--check terminals & wiring
2. Defective thermostat--replace thermostat
3.defective centrifugal switch in motor--replace switch (check linkage to motor)
4. Defective timer--replace timer
5. Open heater element---replace heater element
6. Heat switch set to off----set switch for desired heat

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

I think you have a failed cycle thermostat. The cycle thermostat provides power to the timer to advance the clock and the heating element. If the thermostat has failed it will not heat or advance the timer. Usually when just one side of the thermostat fails the timer will advance but the dryer will run and not shut off. There may a wiring problem on the C terminal of the cycle thermostat. (Burned / got hot / wire itself failed from heat )

If you can provide a model number I can probably locate he replacement parts information for you and possibly a wiring diagram.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

If heating element was replaced and still no heat, Then what I would do is test the voltage current in the wiring and see if there is actually power to the element.

All parts to make dryer heat are:
heating element
thermal fuse
thermostat
timer

any one of these units can be faulty

Yes fix it! for under a $100

If you have a mutimeter set it to ohms and place them on the to terminals coming off the heating element if there is no reading the heating element is bad, replace, also check the thermostat the same way, here is a wiring diagram https://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%203406661.pdf
Here is the heating element http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2976049&pn_=3403585 $41.87
use the same web site to find the thermostat.

Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.

Change your cycling thermostat. When your cycling thermostat fails, then the reponsibility of your heating element to shut down goes to the high-limit thermal shut off (closest to heat element) and the thermal fuse. Your cycling thermostat should shut down heat element when it detects about 140* air in the blower housing. Yours can't detect that anymore so it lets your dryer heat up and up till you blow the thermal. new cycling thermostat and thermal