The fuses in my amp are good and so is my inline fuse from the batter, the thermal light is on but the amp is far from overheated. what can i do?

Kitchenaid is made by Whirlpool. They have had a problem with the self clean getting too hot and shutting down the control board thermal fuse. If you can access the control board. (power off) there should be a small inline thermal fuse attached to a connector usually on the far right of the control board. It is encased in a clear plastic tube. Test this for continuity. If it is bad replace this fuse and the display should come back on. They also have a thermal fuse on the back of the oven that usually goes out at the same time. If the oven and broil don't work after fixing the control board thermal fuse. then you will have to pull the oven out enough to take the back panel off and check this fuse.

The red light you describe on your amp, is the protection mode warning light. An amp goes into protect for many reasons. Here's a checklist.

1st check the fuse (s) on your amp and make sure they are not blown.

2nd check the inline fuse next to your car battery (if you have an inline fuse)

3rd, disconnect the speaker wires with amp on, does the light go off?

4th check your ground, this may be ok if you have tried another amp with the same wires.

5th.if none of these turns the protect mode off, it may be an internal fault.

you may have blown transistors and it is a tricky job to repair and costly.

Besides the regular fuse your microwave has two thermal fuses - one is attached to the magnetron tube (called the magnetron Thermal Cut Off or TCO) and the cavity TCO (usually located under the air ducts on the left side of the microwave). If you have the wiring diagram (usually supplied with the microwave) you can find them there. Unfortunately the model number you provided is incomplete and I'm not able to find the wiring diagram for your microwave.



garden led light

Sounds like you have a bad connection. Get thicker wire, ground wire is not connected well or too long, get an inline fuse from battery to amp-inline fuse between the two-, amp remote wire should be well connected. Maybe

It is almost definitely the thermal fuse. However, you also need to determine why it blew the thermal fuse. This fuse is in place to protect the Control Unit from overheating cause by to high of an amp draw from the motor, the heating element, or a dead short in one of the solenoids.

Replace the thermal fuse, which is located on the Control Unit, behind the Control Panel. After replacing the thermal fuse, start the dishwasher and using an amp meter, test the amp draw of the unit at the supply connection.

During the water fill, you should only see 0.1 to 0.2 amps at the most, and possibly could show 0.0 amps. Once the wash motor turns on, you should see somewhere between 1.2 and 1.8 amps. If the amp draw goes over 2.0 and stays there, you have a bad wash motor.

The best way to check the amp draw of the heater is to put the unit into a field diagnostic mode. To do this, cancel the cycle and wait for the unit to shut down (standby mode). In this order, press "HI TEMP WASH - AIR DRY - HI TEMP WASH - AIR DRY". Air Dry could also be labeled No Heat Dry or something similar. All of the LEDs will light up momentarily and the heat element will be turned on briefly. The amp draw of the heat element can read from 5.5 amps to 7.0 amps. If the amp draw of the heat element goes above 7.5, chances are that your heat element is bad and needs to be replaced.

there is on some Models fuses that can be replaced and or an Thermal fuse blown , got too hot and shut down the heating element , both can be purchased @ Radio Shack , Thermal fuse rated @ 8-10 amps for a few dollars . . and can be crimped on or soldered inline. hope this works for you ? good luck >

The thermal fuse should be located near the coil. Usually just below the plate, but that all depends on the model.

I hope this helps! :)

It should have a thermal fuse (looks like a 22 shell with a wire from each end) that is supposed to melt it's internal link when the near-by temperature is too high. A replacement is to be 'crimp connected' as soldering the connection will kill the fuse again. It is located near the heating element. A defective thermostat will often cause the overheating that pops this fuse.

When you said inline fuse I get the idea that this is not the original radio. Do you have power on the inline fuse? The 50 amp fuse you checked is a bit much for a radio. There may be a smaller fuse in another fuse area of what car type you have. If you do not have power at the inline fuse find some where you do have power (12vdc) and connect to it. If you have power at the in line fuse check the ground wire. If you have a test light or someway of checking for power test all fuses everywhere. If you have a fuse location guide for this vehicle look for the fuse for radio. If it was a add on or after market radio they probably caught power from the original source That is fused under the dash.

you probably blew it up.