Electrical problem/did the motor blow?

First thing to do is run a OBD2 test for fault codes.

accord to my books this tractor has a wet clutch transmission (12 speed) , first thing is to ck your fluid level in transmission , this is bit hard to reach on this one but is possible second obtain a small sample of fluid from transmission, have it tested , It can tell you alot , second you mention that hydraulic pump overloads engine with simple tasks like raise 3-point, this could be a stuck pressure relief valve due to yep you guessed it dirty filter (it bypassed itself) ck hyd fluid for proper level and clarity ohh and one more thing this tractor uses hyd pump for power steering (some others have 2nd pump for this) is it possible that noise is coming from that area , cus I have had to replace power steering valve on that model once for a loud Noise reason
remember if your gonna have a all hydro tractor save yourself a lot of grief and periodly wash shaft seals with water sure saves a lot of grief and leaks !!

Most of the time, a noisy motor is a bad motor. I don't think the module would make it whine, basically the module is an electrical switching device.

could have been the motor,you might also smell like a shellac kind of smell,when the motor overheats,also how old is it and what's the brand name and model number.you can feel the motor,if it's hot then it is cutting out for some reason.

two different problems a starter going bad and possible power steering leak

the noise happens running down the road or parked? Is the car a four wheel drive? The alteanator can go bad and whine, the wheel bearings can go bad and whine, windows not fitting right can make a whine The altenator will stop whining if it's unplugged, if this fixes it the battery and the altenater need tested and a bad battery can make the altenator whine and it still be OK. Don't run the engine with the battery disconnected as this can blow alot of expensive stuff and the altenator.

if its whining but still spinning, the bearings are done. If it just makes a loud noise, the capacitor could be bad or the bearings have seized.

it must be motor run away condition. motor must have exceeded its design speed and the internal windings must have parted off. you did the right thing. but, when your son switched on again, it would have run for few minutes with all internal extra friction and stopped with burnt smell. you have lost the motor. but, before replacing the motor get the speed control system checked.

It sounds like either one of your solenoids have failed or that the drain pump itself is stuck. See if you can turn the motor by hand. If it is stiff losen the belt and see if it turns freely. If it does turn the water pump by hand and see if it turns freely. If not replace the pump. If it does then re-tighten the belt and turn the belt by hand to see if the tub spin tube / clutch turns when the motor and belt are turned. If the clutch is engage all the time then one of you sloeniods has a problem either with the winding or the center pin of the glider underath th solenoid has failed (Inverted channel). If the pin has sheared drill out the old pin and install a cotter pin in it's place. This shoudl pretty much isolate your problem unless the motor has failed.. As you described the symptoms...it appears the motor thermal overload is tripping. Good luck.

If it is a rubber smell, then it could be belts and/or brush roll. If it is an electrical smell, then it could be the motor. Take the belts off and see if it still makes that noise, if it does, then the motor is going bad.