Tumbles but no heat, Check Heating Element and Thermostats and they checked fine, Checked power going into machine and have 120 v. on each leg.

Dear Lynn,
Clothes dryers today have many safeguards built in to prevent overheating and fires.
First , I'll tell you the most likely cause of the problem, then move on to the other causes.
Most likely is a failed heating element.
You can check this by removing the back of the machine, and take a multi-meter or an ohm meter and test the heating element for continuity, (with the wires removed from it.)
Next most common is a blown fuse or an overheated thermostat. (There may be as many as 5 on your machine)
If you discover either the fuse or one of the thermostats has failed, you should check further to be sure all the vent pipes are clear, both inside the machine and from the machine to the outside air.
Each of these need to be checked with the meter, just like you did with the heating element.
Unplug the wires, and check for continuity.
Least common is a broken or burnt wire.
The element, the fuse, and the thermostats are available from an appliance parts store, or from "Sears Parts Direct" online.
God bless your efforts.

Have you checked your heating element. Chances are if your dryer is ten years old or older the wire element has an open and cannot carry current and heat up.

1) Have you checked to makes sure all of the connections for the heating element are correct and plugged in?
2) Have you checked to make sure any and all fuses (if any) are good?
3) Have you cleaned the interior of the dryer?
4) Have you opened the dryer up and turned it on to check to see if the heating coil is heating or not?

If you haven't done these go back and do so.

if you checked all the t-stats and they checked good the only two things left is the board and the motor,it takes 240 volts to get heat 120 comes from the board and the other 120 volts comes from the motor,first go to the block where the cord connects to the dryer and make sure you have 240 volts there,but you say you changed the thermister and you had heat?check both thermisters to see if you get the same reading on them both should be around 10k ohms,that could of been coincidental With the resistance value at room temp on the thermistor being good then this would not be a thermistor error. There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the Control board. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the control board side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad .

I am assuming this is an electric only (not gas) dryer, as I cannot find any tech data on your specific model. This is a general troubleshooting guide for heat issues with electric dryers, going from the most common to least common solutions:

**Standard disclaimer--voltages in a dryer (or any AC connected appliance) are high enough to kill you. If you don't know what you are doing, or have any difficulty understanding what I am saying....STOP and call a professional.

With that being said....

1. Test the power supply feeding the dryer and make sure that both 120 volt legs are getting power in reference to the neutral wire. Check between them (red wire to black wire) and check for 240 volt power. A bad breaker or partially failed 240 volt circuit may still provide power for the motor (which only uses one 120 volt leg) but not the heating element, which uses both 120 volt legs to make 240 volts for the heating element. Be sure to check both the receptacle and the terminals where the cord attaches to the dryer.

2. With the dryer unplugged, and the heating element disconnected, check for continuity between the heating element terminals. You may also be able to visualize the heating element coils if you remove it from the dryer. Most elements are held in place by one small sheet metal type screw, in case you need to remove it.

3. Check for continuity on the thermostat and thermal cutoff switch on the dryer. These parts usually are about 1.5" across and are screwed into the metal housing for the heating element. When the dryer is cool, both of these parts should have continuity. Remember to remove the wires from at least one of the terminals before checking continuity. These parts may look similar. If you have a defective one, google the part number stamped into the side of the part to determine which one is which. They are NOT interchangeable.

4. If all of this checks out ok, you will need to check for power coming from the timer to the heating assembly with the power on. The thermostat, thermal cutoff and heating element are typically wired in series. The two wires coming from the timer area down to the heater assembly should have 240 volts between them when the dryer is powered on and in a heating cycle. Once again BE CAREFUL IF YOU DECIDE TO DO THIS. IF IN DOUBT, READ THE WARNING ABOVE.

Your dryer may also have a switch to control the heat intensity, independent of the timer. If it does, check that as well.

Good luck, and I hope this helps!

Hello there and thank you for choosing fixya
Please Closly check the following
Dryer tumbles, but there is no heat

• Check for proper air flow
  
• Test the safety fuse
  
• Test the thermostats
  
• Test the centrifugal switch
  
• Test the timer motor
  
• Test the heating element
  

Dryer takes too long

• Check the lint trap
  
• Check for proper air flow
  
• Inspect the vent hose for kinks or dips
  
• Test the heating element
  
• Test the thermostats
  

If element is good try check the sensors and thermostats

It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. I have some repair photos: HERE

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

sounds more like either you lost one leg(120)volts to the dryer or the neutral lead could also be open,this would be associated with both your problems,I doubt the element is bad unless you have checked it visually and done a continuity check on it,because the timer doesn't operate either you could have one live leg(120)volts,but with open neutral it wont operate the 120volt timer

Have you checked the voltage at the outlet? You're supposed to read 220-240 VAC at the heating element. Your dryer heating circuits require at least 220 VAC to work. The motor, however, only uses 120 VAC. That's why your dryer may be running, but the heating circuits aren't heating. I would go back and check your outlet. You may be missing one leg of the 220 service, or have a loose, burned, or broken wire in the plug or terminal block (on the back of the dryer). Let me know what you find. I hope this helps you.