Side x side will not cool or freeze i did the basic tests as you stated the only problem so is the capasitor near the compressor ;no continunity. Model ED20PKXBW00 whirlpool.

you need to put a set of gages on the unit and check the Freon amount

You need to check the overload relay on the compressor and make sure that the coils near the compressor are clean of debris and duct.

Good day!!!


If the refrigerator isn't cool, check to see if the light comes on when you open the door. Next check to see if the thermostat is set properly. If both of these are OK, then check to see if the compressor is running. See if the compressor motor is running. The compressor is in a case with no visible moving parts. It is usually located at the back of the refrigerator near the bottom. If it's humming, or making a steady noise, and your refrigerator is still not cooling properly, there could be a problem with one or more various components.
Refrigerators have either a mechanical defrost timer, or an ADC (Adaptive Defrost Control). If your refrigerator has a mechanical timer, set the cold control to the coldest setting and then advance the defrost timer. You can manually advance the timer with a screwdriver. Insert the screwdriver into the advancement pinion and turn clockwise a 1/4 to 3/8's of a turn. If the compressor starts, replace the defrost timer. For further help, you'll want to call a professional appliance repair technician.
Sometimes you can hear a click-buzz-click sound coming from the compressor. This is the relay/overload at work. If you hear this, power is getting to the compressor. If you do, something is wrong with either the compressor or the compressor starting components. If you have a newer model with solid-state starting components, you may not hear anything at all. If there is power to the starting components, you may be able to test each part and replace any bad parts. There is also a 3-in-1 unit that may work on your model which replaces all the components in one unit. If the compressor still won't start, you have a bad compressor and need to replace it. If it does start, wire the 3-in-1 part in permanently. Make sure the one you buy is rated for the horsepower of your appliance.
If you don't hear anything, you can take the cover off the side of the compressor and test for voltage at the two leads. If no voltage is present, it's time to check the cold control. To test if the cold control is bad, you can temporarily jump the two wires at the cold control. If you get power to the compressor after doing so, the cold control needs to be replaced.

I hope this information will be helpful..Thanks for using fixya

Test the capasitor in the compressor unit there it could be bad or the compressor froze up.
there is a clicks on over load device inside the plastic box on the side of the compressor some
times they go bad too.

The possibilitty is the 8 hour timer may be defective. This timerr is the one which cut off the compressor and powers the heater to defrost the coooling coils to condense the water to the try below. If this wont happen then the possibility of the cooling coils building up frost will decrease cooling. The thermostat can also be a culprit as the thermostat is also in circuit . You can see if the timer works in this cycle by shutting off the fridge for several hours and restarting to check the defrosting cycle.the timer is placed near to the compressor unit and the heater near the cooling coils. Hope you check this out. Good day .

Good day,
He can't, although it's a good guess. However, The compressor can be tested and run with a special test cord most all techs have.
It allows the compressor to be run independent of the rest of the machine and is the definitive test. I would not go forward unless that test is performed. Compressors are too expensive.

Good day,
If the compressor has failed, then replacement of the machine might make sense, but a refrigerator is a complex device with many components, that can be replaced at nominal cost.
1. The defrost system failed. Usually shows up as frost building up on the rear panel of the freezer compartment. Consists of 3 parts.
2. Circulating fan motor in freezer compartment failed.
3. Condenser cooling fan motor located in the bottom rear of the machine behind the rear cover near the compressor.
4. Compressor not running because the start components failed.
These are mounted to the side of the compressor and consist of
the overload, start relay, and on some models a start/run capacitor.
5. Defective thermostat, not running the machine or not running it enough.
Once these basic items are checked, your question can be answered.

I assume the compressor is running since you indicate you have some cool air.

Check to make sure the compressor fan is running. This fan should be near the compressor. Its purpose is to pull room air across the coils and remove the heat from them. If this fan does not operate properly, the refrigerant will not be cycled properly. If the fan is not turning, you will need to replace the fan motor.

Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm

Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).

Several possible causes. Knowing the state of refrigerant charge would be helpful. Assuming it has a 'full' charge (full charge 680 Grams = 1.50 Pounds) Most common causes of AC problems:
1. Thermostatic switch (sensor) malfunction in the evaporator - allowing the evaporator to ice up. Check the vent temperature (using a cooking thermometer) to see if the temperature gets near or below freezing (32 Deg F.). If so, the thermostatic switch in the evaporator is defective. Replace it.
2. Refrigerant UNDER-charge. If the temperature does NOT get near freezing, then you need a set of AC gauges to check the compressor head pressure (High side) and the suction (Low side). High side pressure (nominal) is 229 PSI (+ - 20 psi) @ 2000 RPM. Low side (nominal) is around 20 to 40 psi. NOT common problems:
1. The magnetic clutch coil on the compressor... as it heats/warms up, the coil windings could be going 'open" circuit which would turn the compressor 'off.'
2. Compressor inefficiency (worn out).
3. Expansion Valve
4. Clogged Condensor