Air not cold...model MSH-18NV no operating manual for remote . Not sure how to set to cool air when remote reads "I feel..." choices are cool dry or warm but when set on cool 20degrees, luke-warm air blows out. have checked and cleaned filters.

check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.

But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.

Sorry to inform you, you need to get a HVAc tecnision out too replace the compressor: Did a technision test the amps on the a/c unit? Why did the compressor ceaced?

Dear friend, find below symbols for mode setting. For cool keep minimum 3 degree less than room temp and heat keep minimum 3 degree higher than room temp. Dry mode will help you only in wintertime. Thanks.
Now symbols:
1. fan leaves - Fan only
2. Rain drop- Dry mode
3. Snow flake-Cool mode
4. Sun- Heat
5. A or AU- Auto mode.Helpful?

Symbolsin remote: To get proper cold air set temp 23 degree and mode"cool". To get heat set temp 30 degree and mode in "Heat"
Now symbols:
1. fan leaves - Fan only
2. Rain drop- Dry mode
3. Snow flake-Cool mode
4. Sun- Heat
5. A or AU- Auto mode.

Symbolsin remote: To get proper cold air set temp 23 degree and mode"cool". To get heat set temp 30 degree and mode in "Heat"
Now symbols:
1. fan leaves - Fan only
2. Rain drop- Dry mode
3. Snow flake-Cool mode
4. Sun- Heat
5. A or AU- Auto mode.

Could be either, Thermostat or fan relay on unit. Make sure thermostat fan switch is set to auto

sound to be in heat modenow. If you are after the cool mode, then if you have a cool setting and a heat temp setting, Lower the heat to almost off and set the cool setting to 74 degrees. See if the outside coils get warm. Make sure you are off manualo and n auto. If it runs, give it some time and the tenp of the outside coil will rise and the inside will get cold. Food Luck

The fact that nothing is coming on indicates that there is possibly a problem with your incomming power supply or wiring to and from the inside evaporator to the outside condenser. If all in good order, suggest you find someone you know who can operate a multimeter and check if there is voltage going to the control board inside the evaporator unit. If there is then almost certainly the control board would need replacement.

Hi, I know this question's been up a while and I'm not sure if you care anymore but here goes anyway.

Most air conditioners are reverse cycle, so they can heat the air in your house or cool it down. What we are concerned with is the cooling side of things. So in this mode a working liquid is sprayed into the evaporator and cools its immediate surroundings. air is blown over the evaporator which cools the air. The local temperature around the evaporator is very cold, (how cold exactly I'm not sure) so the air in this region has a very poor ability to hold water and so (especially on a humid day) water condenses out of this air on the surface of the evaporator, is collected and drained away. The cooling function and dry function both use the "cooling" mechanism of the air conditioner. Both extract water from the air in this way but the primary purpose of the cooling function is to cool the air whereas the primary function of the dry setting is to dry the air... obvious I know.

Now in the dry setting the compressor will run with fan going at I imagine a relatively slow speed to chill and extract as much water from the air as possible and to minimise circulation. After a short time the compressor and fan will cut-out and then after a short interval start up again (I'm not really sure but I assume this is either controlled by a humidity sensor OR the temperature sensor monitors for a small change in temperature and shuts off the compressor and fan when it detects this). Now in cooling mode (depending on what temperature is set) the compressor will run for longer and more frequently and therefore remove more water. So why have a dry mode if cooling mode removes more water?... Well that really has the same answer as the question "when do I use dry mode?"

Well on a particular day where the temperature would normally be considered comfortable but on this day it is unusually humid, your body will find it difficult to radiate heat via sweat because of the already high RH (relative humidity) making you uncomfortable and feel "hot". Using dry mode will reduce this RH without adjusting the temperature by much, but you will perceive an ambient temperature drop due to your body being able to discard heat more easily... hence making you more "comfortable" in same way you would normally feel at that temperature.

On the contrary if you were to use cooling mode (which is regulated by temperature) you would have to set a temperature lower than ambient so that the compressor will "kick-in" rather than the air conditioner just running its fan...agree? So that means the air conditioner will reduce RH (which we want) giving you a perceived temp drop but it is also chasing the temperature which you set which will give a REAL temperature drop. So anyway the point is; if it was an unusually humid day on what would otherwise be a comfortable temperature, using cooling (remember the temp has to be set lower than ambient) instead of dry would result in you feeling cold very quickly due to the perceived AND real temperature drop.

So really the dry setting is for days which aren't too hot, but are humid.

I think my logic makes sense.

cheers Matt

-Start the unit.
-Press EMERGENCY OPERATION switch.3-minute time delay works.Test run operation operates for 30 minutes.
-Check voltage to terminal block of outdoor unit.Is there 12V DC between 2-1?
-If voltage is presenet check the wiring, compressor contactor outdoor fan motor and compressor.
-If no voltage check voltage to terminal block of indoor unit.Is there 12V DC between 2-1?
-If if voltage is present re-connect the continuity of indoor and outdoor unit connection.
-If no voltage replace the indoor electronic control P.C.
board.
-But also check the coil thermistor sensor and room air thermistor if this two is out of range it can cause the tripping of out door unit. It has the resistance of 8 to 10 k ohms at 25 deg c temp.