My washer WM2487HRM is showing error code "te". I want to know where I can buy the tool to remove the clamp assembly on the seal?

A tE error code on the display of the washer indicates a heating error, usually caused by a faulty thermistor.

1. Unplug the washer from the power outlet for 10 seconds.
2. Plug the washer back in and press the POWER button and then the SPIN SPEED button until No Spin is selected. Press the START/PAUSE button.
3. Once the washer has drained, restart the wash cycle.
4. If the tE error code appears again, close the water taps and unplug the washer. The washer will require repair service.

To change the oil or to rebuild a 2007 DYNA front fork FIRST raise and support the motorcycle so that the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove the brake caliper and the front wheel, remove the front fender, loosen the pinch bolt screws, do not remove the tube caps, slide the fork sides downward clear of the fork brackets, repeat the procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly.

To disassemble a 2007 DYNA front fork clamp the fork tube and slider assembly in a fork tube holder tool mounted horizontally in a vise, use a 12mm Allen wrench is needed to loosen but do not remove the seat pipe screw, while the internal components are still under tension and less prone to rotate, on the right fork tube and slider assembly, remove the axle holder to access the seat pipe screw, remove the fork tube cap and its o-ring, remove the long spring collar, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool and invert it over a suitable container to catch the fork oil and allowing thefork to drain, extend and retract the slider several times to push oil out of the internal fork components, the washer, and the spring will fall out of fork tube. THEN clamp the fork tube in the fork tube holder tool, remove the slider cover from the slider by inserting a brass drift into the notch in the slider and lightly tapping the cover loose, compress the stopper ring and remove the stopper ring from the groove in the top of the slider bore, Do not remove slider tube caps without relieving the spring preload or the caps and springs may fly out. THEN remove the seat pipe screw and its washer from the bottom of the slider and retain them for reuse, withdraw the slider from the fork tube until the bushing guide contacts the bushing on the fork tube (the bushing guide is a slight interference fit in the slider), then using the slider as a slide hammer, hit the bushing with the bushing guide with a quick continuous stroke until the slider is pulled free from the fork tube, drain the slider and allow the stop oil lock piece to fall free. (If you are only changing the oil or replacing the slider the remaining parts can be left assembled and the fork re-assembled) If it is still attached to the seat pipe remove the stop oil lock piece from the lower end of the seat pipe, remove the seat pipe piston and the ring assembly, remove the rebound spring, remove the oil seal, remove the seal spacer, and remove the bushing guide. Repeat the foregoing procedure for the opposite fork tube and slider assembly.

Thoroughly clean and inspect each part and if and as necessary replace any corroded, worn, bent, broken or otherwise damaged parts, inspect the fork tube bushing and the slider guide bushing and replace if and as required, always replace all oil seals and all o-rings, check the dust cover where it rubs on the fork tube (it should have a good and continuous seal and not show excessive wear, check the fork tube where it rubs on dust the cover and the tube should show a bright, shiny surface, free of scoring or abrasions, if any spring(s) is/are broken they must be replaced, if a fork tube or slider is bent or damaged it must also be replaced now, replace all other worn or damaged components if and as necessary.

To assemble a 2007 DYNA fork FIRST insert the seat pipe assembly with the spring into the slider tube, slide the bushing guide down to the bushing on the fork tube, follow it with the spacer, the oil seal, the stopper ring, the dust shield and the slider cover, install the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool, fit the lower stop onto the seat pipe, slide the seat pipe back into the fork tube until the seat pipe is centered in the tube, gently install the slider assembly onto the slider tube and the bushing, thread the seat pipe screw and washer into the seat pipe through the bottom of the slider assembly, draw the fastener into the seat pipe but do not tighten it at this time, verify the proper action of the fork by moving the slider up and down the fork tube, locate the appropriate fork seal driver over the fork tube in front of the oil seal with the fork seal chamfered lips facing the oil in the fork, in the following order assemble thetop oil seal, the spacer and the bushing guide into the slider bore, install the stopper ring into its groove above the oil seal, push the dust seal against the oil seal and stopper ring, rotate the slider cover to match any removal burrs to the notch in the slider and snap the slider cover into place. THEN operate the slider through its full range of travel several times to verify alignment and proper smooth operation, then pulling down on the slide to apply downward force on the rebound spring, tighten the seat pipe screw to 106-159 in-lbs (12-18 Nm), vertically re-position the fork tube into the fork tube holder tool and with the slider tube compressed, fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL until it is approximately the amount specified below for the type or motorcycle and fork that it is.

a. FXDWG- approximately 29.6 oz (875 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.4 in (112 mm); and
b. All other Dyna models- approximately 26.6 oz (787 cc) and distance from the top of the fork tube = 4.3 in (110 mm)
THEN slowly pump the slider 8 to 10 times to remove air from the fork assembly and fully compress the slider to properly measure the oil level which is measured from the top of the fork tube, with the spacer and the spring removed and the fork fully compressed, then using an appropriate oil level gauge tool adjust the oil level to appropriate level for the fork type and model, pull out the slider and install the spring in the fork tube with the tightly wound end at the bottom, install the washer and the spring collar, carefully to avoid cross threading, install the fork tube cap with a new o-ring and tighten it to 16-43 ft-lbs (22-58 Nm). Repeat the process for the other fork tube and slider assembly.

To install the fork in a 2007 DYNA FIRST insert the fork tube and the slider assemblies up through the lower triple clamp and the upper triple clamp so that the fork tubes will protrude above the upper triple clamp 0.450-0.500 in. (11.4-12.7 mm) with the measurement taken at the midpoint of the fork tube between the top surface of the triple clamp and the top of the fork cap and when properly positioned tighten the pinch bolts to 30-35 ft-lbs (41- 48 Nm), install the front fender and bracket, install the front brake caliper(s), install the front wheel and align the wheel to the forks.

tE is a thermister error. It is a temperature sensor at the bottom front of the washer. tE can also be caused by a heater error. Some models have a seperate thermister, some incorporate it with the heater. It is very difficult to replace without taking the front off the machine.

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

The te code means a defective thermistor. but thermistors rarely fail in LG washers.

The most likey cause of the "te" error is:

1) Loose wiring at the control panel (directly behind the CYCLE SELECTOR KNOB)
2) Broken wire at the THERMISTOR (located at the bottom /front of the tub)


Test the washer. If the "te" error still occurs--it will be neccesary to remove the FRONT PANEL as well (two sets of special plier-type tools are needed).

Inspect the THERMISTOR closely--with good lighting. If there's a break in the wire it will be at or near the black sheathing / heat shrink material.

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Hi,

The problem is due to the rubber boot is been torn that is causing you the leak. You have to check the rubber boot for leaks by removing the clamp assembly that secures the rubber boot to the outer lip of the door opening. Peel off the rubber boot then inspect it for any holes where it may be leaking. The rubber boot in your washer can be accessed only when you remove the front panel. This requires the removal first of the top panel then the console. Also check your inlet hoses on the outside of machine, also check the connections inside the panel in back.

Thank you !!

LG Tromm Washing machine te error. The manual says to call for service. Not much help there. The reason for the error is the thermistor circuit (resistive element that becomes less resistive as it increases in temperature). The thermistor acts as a heat sensor. In many cases, the error occurs because the wireing harness is too tight at the bottom of the drum and one of the wires in this circuit becomes disconnected with all of the movement of the drum (unbalanced load, normal cylcing etc).

1. Unplug the washing machine from the wall. The thermistor circuit is at line voltage (110 in the U.S.) and it will bite! So do this first before proceeding.

2. Move the washer out so you can get access to the back of it.

3. Remove the stainless panel (the one that is not painted, it is large (aprox. 16x18 inches). It is held in place by 4 phillips screws.

4. Locate the thermistor connection block near the bottom of the machine, at the center of the wash drum. It is the small white connector that has two wires running to it. One wire is dark blue, the other is light blue. Insure that neither wire has pulled out of the connector. If either of them have, repair the connector and provide enough extra wire ( aprox. 2") to provide cable relief.

5. If the cable connector and wires are ok, there are other solutions here that recommend either cleaning or replacing the thermistor.

Good luck to you.

A "tE" error code is more than likely the "thermistor". Supposedly can't be serviced by untrained individuals (thus the directions to call for service) but the thermistor can be found easily by tilting the machine on its back. It is mounted to the back of the drum housing. I removed mine after getting a "tE" error...cleaned and replaced...no problems since! No screws needed to be removed. My thermistor is a small, round, black rubber grommet with the metal sensor pushed through the center. I removed the entire grommet. It easily pops back into place.

Generally, this happens when the washer was pushed back into place by applying force to the front of the machine, thus pushing the front panel in just slightly. Sometimes you can fix this by just moving the location of the spring of the front gasket clamp from the bottom center to the left side hinge area. They actually make a special tool for expanding the spring, but you can manage without the special tool. Other times you may have to pull the front panel a out a bit or possibly replace the gray gasket / seal.

Thanks so much for the tip regarding flipping the machine on its side. I was about do the lengthy process of disassembling the front and I tipped the machine over instead. Lo and behold, there was the problem in plain sight right away -- the wire to the thermistor had simply come off the connector! I restripped the tip of the wire and crimped it back on the connector, problem solved. Didn't even need a new part!

assuming the very top cover on both units are scratched??? i have part numbers for you , but thinikin your gonna need to call cust service to order the parts, local part houses probably dont stock them(lg parts anyway).. washer part number( AGU30781501 $80US) dryer part number ( AGU30071202 $70 US)