Thanks for your response Woodchuck 789- it is greatly appreciated. I tried checking the dual inlet valves as you suggested - switching electrical connectors and checking output, etc. The valves seem tight no drips or running water after being de-energized. The water drip inside the refrigerator is at the level of the ice maker and the drips appear between the ice maker tray and the control box on the left side. Could the tray be receiving to much water? The drip does seem to be continuous however. please infor if reply @[email protected]. Thank you

Error code E3 on a Hobart LXiH sanitizer/dishwasher typically indicates a problem with the water fill system. Here are a few things you can check to troubleshoot and resolve this issue:

1. Water supply: Make sure that the water supply to the dishwasher is turned on and that there is adequate water pressure. Check for any kinks or blockages in the water supply line.
2. Water inlet valve: The water inlet valve controls the flow of water into the dishwasher. Check to see if the valve is open and that there is no debris blocking the inlet. If the valve is faulty, it will need to be replaced.
3. Water level sensor: The water level sensor is responsible for detecting the water level in the dishwasher. If the sensor is not working properly, it can cause the dishwasher to display an E3 error code. Check the sensor for any signs of damage or debris.
4. Water pump: The water pump is responsible for pumping water into the dishwasher. If the pump is not working properly, it can cause the dishwasher to display an E3 error code. Check the pump for any signs of damage or debris.
5. Control board: The control board manages all the electrical functions of the dishwasher. If the control board is faulty, it can cause the dishwasher to display an E3 error code. In this case, the control board will need to be replaced.

If your Kenmore 500 washing machine is filling with water but the water won't shut off, it could be caused by a few different issues. Here are a few things to check:

1. Water inlet valve: The water inlet valve is responsible for controlling the flow of water into the washing machine. If the valve is faulty or stuck open, it may cause the water to continue flowing even after the machine is full.
2. Water level switch: The water level switch is responsible for detecting the level of water in the machine and shutting off the water when the machine is full. If the switch is faulty or not functioning properly, it may cause the water to continue flowing.
3. Wiring issue: There may be a problem with the wiring or the electrical system that is causing the water inlet valve or the water level switch to malfunction.

To determine the cause of the problem, it is recommended to bring your washing machine to a professional appliance repair service for further diagnosis and repair. They will be able to test the water inlet valve, water level switch, and other components to identify the source of the issue and recommend the appropriate repairs.

If your Ingersoll Rand SDR25 compressed air dryer is not shutting off when the air tank is full, there are a few possible causes:

1. Faulty solenoid valve: The solenoid valve is responsible for controlling the flow of compressed air through the dryer. If the valve is faulty, it may not be closing properly, which could prevent the dryer from shutting off.
2. Clogged or dirty inlet filter: If the inlet filter is clogged or dirty, it can restrict airflow through the dryer, which could prevent the solenoid valve from closing and the dryer from shutting off.
3. Faulty pressure switch: The pressure switch is responsible for monitoring the pressure in the air tank and turning off the compressor when the tank is full. If the pressure switch is faulty, it may not be sending the signal to the dryer to shut off.

To troubleshoot this issue, you can try the following steps:

1. Check the solenoid valve: Disconnect the air supply to the dryer and check the solenoid valve for proper operation. The valve should be closed when no power is applied, and should open when power is applied. If the valve is not operating properly, it may need to be replaced.
2. Clean or replace the inlet filter: Check the inlet filter for any signs of clogging or dirt buildup. If the filter is dirty, clean or replace it and check if this resolves the issue.
3. Check the pressure switch: Check the pressure switch for proper operation. You can use a multimeter to test the switch for continuity and check if it is sending the correct signal to the dryer to shut off.

If none of these steps resolve the issue, it is recommended to contact a qualified technician or the manufacturer for further assistance with troubleshooting and repairing the air dryer.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Lid Switch Assembly If the washer stops mid cycle the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design
Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer stops mid cycle the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Water Inlet Valve If the washer stops mid cycle the water inlet valve cold water side may have failed. Most washers have a cold water rinse and so if they can't fill with cold water they just sit indefinitely waiting for the cold water to enter. If there is cold water to the water inlet valve and the cold water works in other parts of the cycle - or to make warm water - the valve is not the problem.

Main Control Board If the washer stops mid-cycle the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other causes first such as the lid or door switch and other components.

Timer If the washer stops mid cycle the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this timer.

Either the micro switch for the water dispenser (or the main relay) has failed - or the dual inlet water valve is faulty.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Your water line could be frozen in the door. You can disconnect the line under the unit before it goes into the door at the bottom hinge. Push the dispenser button and see if it comes out there. If it does leave the door open till it thaws. Covering the opening with a blanket will prevent the loss of cold in the freezer. . GE makes a heater that will prevent this from happening again. The part number for this heater is WR49X10173.

disconnect the line to the water dispenser at the water inlet valve on the back where the water supply comes in and try the dispenser. if you hear the valve work but water doesn't come out, the valve is bad. If you don't hear the valve, the dispenser switch is bad


Try swapping the wires on the dual water inlet valve. It’s on the back where the water supply comes in. Then try the water dispenser. The water should go to the ice maker. This will tell you weather or not the ice maker valve is working and if the line is clear.

The water inlet valve on the back of unit opens when the ice maker needs water. If the valve doesn't seal good because of sediment or wear it will continue to drip and when the water reaches the ice maker supply tube it will freeze blocking the fill tube.. You can take the water line off the valve and watch to see if it drips.

A strainer before the inlet valve can also get stopped up restricting flow.

Check these:
Water-inlet valve A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.

Water-level switch A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch. Hope that helps! Should you have any further questions, please feel free to post them here.

P.S. – I would greatly appreciate a FixYa! rating if the solution I provided fixed or helped you fix your problem.

Thank you for using FIXYA!

Cheers!
IrishDruid

Sounds like you have a bad motor module on the icemaker. Part # is W10122536

unplug it then tilt it back an see if water runs out from the base if it does this means the cut off switch has activated and you have a leak in the base